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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Monday, November 24, 2014 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Gettiní Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
IíNíI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10



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