Forced Issue, Mt. Moroni III/IV 5.10+ R
Zion National Park, Utah, USA
Avg time to climb route: 1 day
Approach time: 30 minutes
Descent time: 3 hours
Number of pitches: 9
Height of route: 1000'
OverviewFA: Bryan Bird, Brody Greer, and James Martin, spring/2004.
Start in a shallow left-facing corner, climb the corner for 20 feet to reach a straight-in hand crack. The second pitch climbs the offwidth above (itís easier and more fun than it appears). After Pitch 2 the climb angles to the right, following a ramp system leading to the left side of a large, prominent pillar, the Ice Cream Cone, halfway up the formation. Climb the left side of the Ice Cream Cone up an offwidth protected by a bolt to the top of the cone. The rest of the route follows the right-hand of two crack systems headed for the top of the formation. We did not make it to the summit, but there are some good pitches and fun climbing to be had. From our high point there appeared to be one more easy 4th class pitch to the top. Unfortunately we ran out of daylight and were unable to find out for ourselves. Several anchors have only one bolt; future parties should bring a bolt-kit and beef up stations along the way.
Rack: Standard to 6Ē, nuts, 2 60m ropes, bolt kit for rap anchors.
Descent: rappel down the route to the big forested ramp/ledge then rap down the Bird/Draper route, located up-canyon from Forced Issue about 300 feet. Look for slings on the big vegetated ledge and rappel down the clean face with a crack in it to a bolted station. One more rappel to a ledge where itís possible to scramble south along the base of the wall back to your packs.
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