Sheer Lunacy, Moonlight Buttress Area IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13

   
Search
Go

Zion National Park, Utah, USA

  • Currently 0.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 1 day
Approach time: 25 minutes
Descent time: 1 hour
Number of pitches: 7
Height of route: 1100' route, 1300' total
Overview
FA: Ron Olevsky, solo, 08/92. FFA: Brad Barlage and Doug Heinrich.

Sheer Lunacy is another classic Ron Olevsky route that consists of mostly reasonable free pitches. The crux of the route whether free climbing or aid climbing lies above the Toquerville Tower. Start on Moonlight Buttress. From the top of Pitch 1 of Moonlight continue up the right-facing corner system above to a large ledge. Another option is to climb the 2nd pitch of Moonlight and then climb the V-slot corner of Lunar Ecstasy to a ledge and belay. Traverse straight left on the ledge system to join Sheer Lunacy. Be aware of a rope pinching crack 20 feet up the first 5.12 pitch, which has been known to eat the leader’s rope in the event of fall. The 5.12+ variation to the crux begins just down and right off the top of the Toquerville Tower. If you’re aiding the route a couple of pointed hooks (talon/leeper) are handy for the thin crack straight up off the TT. Aid climbers will also want to beef up their rack in the thin stopper and thin cam sizes./

Rack: see topo.
Climber Beta on Sheer Lunacy
  A total of (4) submissions of route beta on Sheer Lunacy
Which SuperTopo guidebooks include a topo for Sheer Lunacy?

Zion Climbing
Find other routes like Sheer Lunacy

 
Everything You Need to Know About Zion National
Search the internet for beta on Sheer Lunacy
  Search the internet for information on Sheer Lunacy
Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: March 14, 2014
Moonlight Buttress Area - Sheer Lunacy IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Bryan Bird
Other Routes on Moonlight Buttress Area
Moonlight Buttress Area - Moonlight Buttress 5.12d or 5.9 C1 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Moonlight Buttress, 5.12d or 5.9 C1
Moonlight Buttress Area
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

The route as seen from the loop road.
Moonlight Buttress Area - Lunar Ecstasy  IV/V 5.10 C2 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Lunar Ecstasy,  IV/V 5.10 C2
Moonlight Buttress Area
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Moonlight Buttress Area - Swoop Gimp or be Dust V 5.9 C3 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Swoop Gimp or be Dust, V 5.9 C3
Moonlight Buttress Area
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Moonlight Buttress Area - Moonlight Buttress IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Moonlight Buttress, IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Moonlight Buttress Area
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

SuperTopo Videos