Sheer Lunacy, Moonlight Buttress Area IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13

   
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Zion National Park, Utah, USA

  • Currently 0.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 1 day
Approach time: 25 minutes
Descent time: 1 hour
Number of pitches: 7
Height of route: 1100' route, 1300' total
Overview
FA: Ron Olevsky, solo, 08/92. FFA: Brad Barlage and Doug Heinrich.

Sheer Lunacy is another classic Ron Olevsky route that consists of mostly reasonable free pitches. The crux of the route whether free climbing or aid climbing lies above the Toquerville Tower. Start on Moonlight Buttress. From the top of Pitch 1 of Moonlight continue up the right-facing corner system above to a large ledge. Another option is to climb the 2nd pitch of Moonlight and then climb the V-slot corner of Lunar Ecstasy to a ledge and belay. Traverse straight left on the ledge system to join Sheer Lunacy. Be aware of a rope pinching crack 20 feet up the first 5.12 pitch, which has been known to eat the leaderís rope in the event of fall. The 5.12+ variation to the crux begins just down and right off the top of the Toquerville Tower. If youíre aiding the route a couple of pointed hooks (talon/leeper) are handy for the thin crack straight up off the TT. Aid climbers will also want to beef up their rack in the thin stopper and thin cam sizes./

Rack: see topo.
Climber Beta on Sheer Lunacy
  A total of (4) submissions of route beta on Sheer Lunacy
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: March 14, 2014
Moonlight Buttress Area - Sheer Lunacy IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Bryan Bird
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The route as seen from the loop road.
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