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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
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Complete
List of Included Climbs |
Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review |
Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
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