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Free
downloads:
Snake Dike, 5.7R
Fairview Dome, 5.9
Astroman, 5.11c
Muir Wall, El Cap
Canyonlands, 5.11
Lover's Leap, 5.7
Muir Wall, El Cap
High Sierra, 5.10
Red Rocks, 5.10a
Tahoe Bouldering
Denali, Alaska
Bay Area Bouldering
Yosemite Bouldering
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South
Lake Tahoe Climbing Info
South Lake Tahoe offers exquisite year round climbing for every
ability and taste. Trad climbers can jam smooth Yosemite like cracks
at Sugarloaf or Eagle Lake, pull on steep knobs at Phantom Spires,
lead their first multi-pitch route at Lover’s Leap. Sport
climbers can clip bolts at Luther Rock, Luther Spires and Mayhem
Cove. This book focuses on some of the highest quality granite in
the Sierra, but unlike Yosemite’s glacier-polished rock, Tahoe
granite is more textured with knobs, dikes, and edges. This makes
it a little more “user friendly” and means you climb
steeper routes at easier grades.
In Tahoe it’s easy to change elevations and find a crag with
perfect temperatures. Go to Sugarloaf if a cold snap rolls in, switch
to Lover’s Leap and Phantom Spires in mild conditions, or
climb at Eagle Lake Cliff and Wrights Lake Cliff to escape the heat.
Good climbing weather is always at hand. You also get to choose
your level of serenity. Eagle Creek Cliff and Wrights Lake Cliff
have alpine lakes, craggy peaks, and silence. Lover’s Leap
or 90-Foot Wall are more social destinations and right by the road.
Sit around a fire at the Phantom Spires camping area or go big at
the Stateline casinos. Cook ramen on your Whisperlite stove or eat
Sushi in South Lake Tahoe. You get to choose.
We all love Yosemite and Tuolumne, but the fact is they’re
often a logistical hassle. Not so in Tahoe. No advanced planning,
no reservations, no fees, and no ranger presence. You camp for free
on most Forest Service land and there is always a supermarket, restaurant,
or latté nearby. Unlike the National Parks, dogs are allowed
at all the climbing areas (and can guard your pack from squirrels).
Tahoe is the ideal training ground for Yosemite’s long routes.
Rather than get bogged down in the crowds on Yosemite’s limited
selection of 5.6-5.9s, build your skills on Tahoe’s more numerous
moderates and then head to the Valley. If you live in the Bay Area,
most Tahoe crags are closer than Yosemite. For some, Sugarloaf is
even closer than Pinnacles.
South
Lake Tahoe Climbing Skills
The myriad rock features offer many different climbing options for
each crux which can help or confuse. Sometimes it is easier to do
an improbable face move to the side of a major feature. Some 5.8
moves, the crux on Haystack for example feel like 5.7 if you have
the perfect beta or 5.10 if you miss a key hold. Stemming, long
reaches, and discriminating handhold selection are invaluable Leap
skills. Most crack climbs involve a combination of stemming, face
climbing and the occasional straight-in jam. Most face climbs involve
reaches and mantels between dikes. It is not the size of the holds
but rather the distance between dikes that determines route difficulty.
Face climbs at Lover’s Leap favor tall climbers as a 5.10 move
may be 5.9 for someone taller than 6’0” and 5.11 for someone
shorter than 5’5”.
Gear
and Equipment
The standard Tahoe traditional climbing rack is two sets of cams,
1-2 sets of nuts, 10 quickdraws, and 6-10 slings. Many anchors are
natural so having a little extra gear is nice. Each SuperTopo
notes where additional gear is needed. A single 60m rope suffices
to descend and toprope most climbs. However, for maximum toprope
options, use a 70m rope. In rare cases, two ropes are mandatory
to descend. When toproping, it’s often useful to extend the
anchor by 10 feet so the rope doesn’t run over an edge. For
this purpose, bring 20 feet of webbing or a cordalette. Always carry
a hat, gloves, and light jacket in case of a thunderstorm.
Good
First Lovers Leap Climbs
The following list will introduce you to the climbing at Lovers
Leap. Other great introduction areas include Phantom Spires, 90-Foot
Wall, Luther Spires and Echo Lake. All these climbs are in our South
Lake Tahoe guidebook. We encourage you to check out the FREE
SuperTopo of Corrugation Corner
to get psyched for a Lake Tahoe adventure.
|
Route
|
Rating
|
Pitches
|
Description
|
|
Knapsack Crack |
5.5
|
2
|
This
climb is great for first time Lover’s Leap climbers. The
route ascends 300 feet of clean, moderate, and well-protected
terrain. |
| Manic
Depressive, Direct
|
5.5
|
1
|
Less
sustained and less quality than Knapsack crack, this route is
a great first outdoor rock climb. |
| Deception
|
5.6
|
4
|
This
is the most popular Hogsback climb. It delivers sustained and
wandering 5.6 moves up the tallest part of wall. |
| Harvey's
Wallbangers, Center |
5.6
|
2
|
The
climbing is mostly 5.4 with one short 5.6 fingers crux. This
is a good step up from Knapsack Crack and definitely easier
than Deception. |
| Pop
Bottle |
5.7
|
3
|
With
just a few moves of 5.7, Pop Bottle is a great introduction
to the East Wall. While the route ascends lower-angle rock,
a few steep bulges add some spice. |
| Surrealistic
Pillar |
5.7
|
3
|
While
Surrealistic Pillar follows a line of large cracks, it is almost
entirely a face climb. |
| East
Wall |
5.7
|
3
|
This
challenging and adventurous climb meanders across features rarely
found on many Lover’s Leap routes: a huge belay ledge,
an enormous featured corner, and super-sized dikes and flakes. |
Good
Climbs for Returning South Lake Tahoe Climbers
Once warmed up to Leap climbing, you may want to expand your tick
list to the climbs listed below. All of these climbs are part of
South Lake Tahoe Climbing
guidebook.
|
Route
|
Rating
|
Pitches
|
Description
|
| Bear's
Reach |
5.7
|
3
|
This
must-do climb offers more than a few memorable face and crack
moves. The name comes from the second pitch crux where, depending
on your height, you must make a huge “Bear’s Reach”
between two large holds. |
| Corrugation
Corner
|
5.7
|
3
|
This
awesome route is one of the steepest climbs in this guide and
one of the steepest granite 5.7s you will find anywhere. |
| Haystack |
5.8
|
3
|
Second
to The Line, Haystack takes one of the most striking crack systems
on the East Wall and ascends a diversity of terrain from straight
in jamming to face moves and roofs. |
| East
Crack |
5.8
|
3
|
With
only a few 5.8 moves, this is a good entry to 5.8 and is only
moderately more difficult (and better protected) than Bear’s
Reach. |
| The
Line |
5.9
|
3
|
The
Line is the most popular and striking route at Lover’s
Leap and offers a delicious mixture of lieback, stem, and face
moves with the occasional straight-in jam. |
| Traveler
Buttress
|
5.9
|
4
|
There
are four reasons why you must climb this route: the amazing
line, the stomach-turning exposure, the flawless rock quality,
and a fascinating history. |
| Scimitar |
5.9
R
|
3
|
Sustained
at the 5.8 and 5.9 level, Scimitar is set apart by its variety
as you will encounter lieback cracks, runout face, and steep
bulges. |
| Eagle's
Buttress, Right
|
5.10a
|
5
|
This
unsung classic has somehow escaped notice for many years. The
climbing is sustained, varied, and occasionally spectacular. |
Lover's
Leap Bouldering
While limited with only about 30 problems, the Lover’s
Leap boulders are exceptional. The high-quality of granite is extremely
textured and offers a wide variety of handholds. Most problems are
in the V1-V4 range and offer everything from steep crimps and slopers
to long traverses and short cracks. There are enough problems for
a full day of bouldering, or to just cool down after a day of climbing
at the big cliffs. The very first Lover's Leap Bouldering guide
is included in the South
Lake Tahoe guidebook.In the future, SuperTopo will expand it's
offering to other bouldering areas in Tahoe.
Leave
No Trace
All the climbing areas in South Lake Tahoe are on National Forest
land and are so far subject to few restrictions. Lets keep it that
way. Use existing trails, clean up your campsite, and park only
in the Lover's Leap campground or along Highway 50.
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South
Lake Tahoe Essentials
Getting
There
A car is essential in Tahoe as public transportation
is scarce. From San Francisco, drive Interstate 80 to Sacramento
and join Highway 50. Access all climbing areas in this guide off
Highway 50 or Highway 89. Be aware that many people get speeding
tickets 10 miles east of Placerville.
Reno/Tahoe Airport is about an hour drive to South Lake Tahoe and
Sacramento International Airport is about two hours away. Rent a
car at the airport. You can also fly into Oakland or San Francisco,
rent a car and drive about three hours. Bishop: 4 hours, 200 miles
When
to Climb
South Lake Tahoe has a similar climate to Yosemite Valley with ideal
climbing conditions in the spring and fall. Below is a summary of
the climbing seasons. Note that the beginning and end of the climbing
season is decided by fierceness of the winter. In lean years, you
can climb from April to December. In heavy years, you can climb
June to October. Be sure to check the SuperTopo web site to see
if it has been a heavy or light snow year before planning your trip.
May–June: This is a prime time to visit South Lake
Tahoe because of the long days and great climbing temperatures in
the 60s and 70s. Depending on the snow year, the walls are generally
clear of snow and dry by the end of April. Be prepared for some
wet cracks and the occasional late-season storms. Expect crowds.
July–August: While the skies are usually clear, the
day temperatures are consistently in the 80s and 90s making it
often uncomfortable to climb in the sun. Seek out the shade and
climb in the higher elevation areas like Eagle Lake Cliff, Wrights
Lake. Most Lover's Leap crags are perfect in the morning.
September–October: Fall is a great time to visit South
Lake Tahoe. Temperatures are perfect for climbing and generally
stay in the 60s and 70s. There are rarely any storms and the rock
is dry. In early September, the occasional heat wave can roll through
and in late October the temperatures can be freezing at night. Expect
crowds.
November: The weather is uncertain during this time. The
first winter storm usually hits in the first two weeks of November
which makes most of the routes too wet to climb for the rest of
the winter. However, during a dry year the climbing conditions can
be great with temperatures in the 50s and 60s with few crowds. Even
during a dry November, you will need to bring warm clothing as night
temperatures are often below freezing.
December–March: Due to the bleak climbing conditions,
nobody climbs in South Lake Tahoe in the winter. Snow covers the
base and summits of most cliffs, temperatures are often freezing
and the rock is wet. During cold years ice forms on the right side
of the East Wall at Lover's Leap making for the rare California
multi-pitch ice climb.
April: Wet rock and unstable weather usually make April
a terrible time to climb at South Lake Tahoe. However, in an extremely
dry year April can have great weather and be free of crowds.
South
Lake Tahoe weather—five day forecast for the closest town
to South Lake Tahoe.
Twin
Bridges weather—five day forecast for the closest town
to South Lake Tahoe.
Restaurants
The Strawberry Lodge, located on Highway 50 just a five-minute
walk from Lover's Leap campground, offers American food and
has a bar.The bar serves great local and semi-local brews and is
the spot of choice to talk about all the climbs you onsighted that
day, how you found all the ratings too easy, and how that 5.12
you climbed next to looked pretty doable.
In Pollock Pines, a town located 30 minutes west of the Leap on
US 50, there is a decent coffee shop called Pony Espresso. A favorite
Mexican restaurant for locals and travelers alike is Los Hermanos
(beware that it's crowded on weekends). Both Pony Espresso and Los
Hermanos are off the Sly Park Rd. exit in Pollock Pines.
For other food options you will need to travel to South Lake Tahoe.
Here are some of South Tahoe’s better restaurants:
Breakfast: Ernie’s, 1146 Emerald Bay Road,
(530) 541-2161
Breakfast: Red Hut Waffle Shop 2723 Lake Tahoe
Blvd (530) 541-9024
Healthy Breakfast/Lunch: Sprouts, 3123 Harrison Avenue, (530)
541-6969.
Coffee: Alpen Sierra (free wireless), 3940 Lake Tahoe Blvd.,
Suite 1 (530) 544-7740
Coffee: Wide Awake Café (free
wireless), 3434 Lake Tahoe Blvd (530) 541-7400
Burgers: Burger
Lounge 717 Emerald Bay Rd, (530) 542-4060
Burgers: Izzies Burger Spa, 2591 Lake Tahoe Boulevard,
(530) 544-5030
Chinese: Hunan Garden, 900 Emerald Bay Rd. (530) 544-5868
Mexican: Papagayo, 3132 Us Highway 50, (530) 577-3344
Mexican:Taqueria Jalisco 3079 Harrison Ave,
(530) 541-6516
Pizza: Bob Dog’s Pizza, 3141 Us Highway
50, (530) 577-2364
Pizza: Bob Dog’s Pizza, 4000
Lake Tahoe Blvd A1 (530) 541-0809
Pizza: Lake Tahoe Pizza Co., 1168 Emerald Bay
Rd (530) 544-1919
Fancy Seafood: The Chart House, 392 Kingsbury
Grade (775) 588-6276
Seafood: Freshies, (great
summer roof deck), 3330 Lake Tahoe Blvd (530) 542-3630
Sushi: Off the
Hook!, 2660 Lake Tahoe Blvd, Unit E, (530) 544-5599
Thai: Orchid Thai, 2180 Lake Tahoe Blvd., (530)
544-5541
Bar/Music: Divided
Sky (free wireless), 3200 US Highway 50, (530)
577-0775
Camping
and Lodging
You will find more detailed camping info in the introduction
to each specific climbing area in South
Lake Tahoe Climbing. Most climbers, no matter where
they climb, camp at Lover’s Leap or Phantom Spires. Other
options include the Forest Service land of Strawberry Tract
Rd, just southwest of Lover's Leap. If you and some friends
want to pitch in for more upscale accommodations, consider renting
a vacation house from
Chris Mac.
Farmers
Markets
From June 5-October 16 there is a Farmer's Market in South Lake
Tahoe at 2732 South Lake Tahoe Blvd (Hwy 50) from 8AM-1PM. On the
drive up Highway 50 to Tahoe there are many options that you can
read about at the Aplle
Hill Growers Web Site and El
Dorado Farmer's Market Web Site.
For a detailed description of farmers markets and food options in
the area, click here
Groceries
Raley’s, located at the junction of 89 and 50 in South
Lake Tahoe, offers the best prices and selection. Liras (2977
Highway 50; 530-577-5399) located in Meyers, has a smaller selection.
If you’re staying at Lover’s Leap, Strawberry
Market, located across from Strawberry Lodge, has a got you covered
for all the essentials. If driving from the Bay Area, there are
marjor grovery stores next to the freeway in Placerville and Pollack
Pines.
Climbing
Gear and Climbing Guides
Lover's Leap Guides (530-318-2939)
is a guide service run by some of the most experienced Lover's
Leap climbers. They offer classes in beginning to advanced climbing,
learning to lead, summiting all the Phantom Spires and adaptive
climbing. Alpine
Skills International and Sierra
Mountain Guides also offer group trips and private guiding
to climbs at Lover's Leap and the rest of the Tahoe area. Epic
Adventures has been guiding since 1977 at Lover's Leap
as well as the Pinnacles and Castle Rock. Mountain
Adventure Seminars (209) 753-6556) guides at Lover's Leap,
Calaveras Dome and through northern California.
The closest selection of gear
and climbing beta is at Sports
Ltd. (1032 Emerald Bay rd.
In the South Y Center South Lake Tahoe, CA. 96150; 530-544-2284).
Rest
Days
When you need a rest day or just want to mix things up, head to
South Lake Tahoe for two world-class mountain bike trails: The
Flume Trail and Mister Toads Wild Ride. During the summer
you can also buy lift tickets and ride at many of the ski resorts.
There are also a number of hiking trails not to mention all the
Lake Tahoe activities: kayaking, water skiing, sitting on the beach,
etc. For guidebooks and recommendations from knowledgeable locals,
visit South Lake Tahoe’s best outdoor sports shop Sports
Ltd. (Crescent V Shopping Center, 4008 Lake Tahoe Boulevard;
530-542-4000) All the nightlife is at either one of South Lake Tahoe’s
two major casinos: Harrah’s or Harvey’s.
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Suggested
