Swamp Donkey, Mt. Spry III 5.11- A0
Zion National Park, Utah, USA
Avg time to climb route: 1 day
Approach time: 45 minutes
Descent time: 30 minutes - 1 hour
Number of pitches: 5
Height of route: 600'
OverviewFA: Bryan Bird and Kaleb Padgett, 2007.
Begin just left of a major cleft or cave at the base of the cliff. Follow natural weaknesses, heading for a prominent beehive-shaped formation on the skyline. The first attempt exited right around the hive-shaped formation to a difficult Bombay roof pitch. In 2008 Joe French, Zach Lee and I went back to try to put a direct finish on the route. The result: Swamp Donkey Left III 5.11 A0. We drilled a bolt to protect a boulder problem to continue up the steep cracks through the hive formation previously mentioned. This two-pitch variation will become a classic 5.12 free route.
Rack: see topo.
Descent: rappel the route.
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