Risk Management, Carbuncle Buttress III 5.10+/11- A0


Zion National Park, Utah, USA

  • Currently 0.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 1 day
Approach time: 20 minutes
Descent time: 1 hour
Number of pitches: 5
Height of route: 800'
FA: Bryan Bird, Carl Oswald, and Eric Draper, spring/2005

Risk Management begins in a hand crack in a white calcified wall on the right-hand (down canyon) side of the treed ledge mentioned in the approach. Beyond Pitch 2 of this route there are no fixed anchors. Risk Management tops out in the notch on the right side of the green wall that Riddler’s Delight ascends. There were only two moves of “french freeing” through the roof at the end of the second-to-last pitch. By the time this guide goes to print it will be a free climb.

Rack: 2 ea .33-4”, 1 ea 5.5”, nuts, offset nuts, 2 60m ropes.

Descent: drop off the top of the wall to the east into the hanging canyon behind the route. Walk down drainage to the north past the debris of an old plane wreck to the point where the main drainage drops off steep to the north behind the Made to Be Broken formation. It is possible to down-climb that drainage but there is some exposed sections and there are no fixed anchors. The easier or less scary route is to rappel down the north end of the face that Riddler’s Delight ascends. From the pour off below the plane wreckage turn west and loop your rope over a stout bush on the edge of the west-facing cliff. Do three, 100-foot rappels and some down climbing to the bottom of the cliff. Scramble south down the gully past the base of Riddler’s Delight and back to your packs. This descent is surprisingly clean and easy.
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Carbuncle Buttress - Risk Management III 5.10+/11- A0 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Bryan Bird
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