Riddlers Delight, Carbuncle Buttress III/IV 5.10
Zion National Park, Utah, USA
Avg time to climb route: 1 day
Approach time: 20 minutes
Descent time: 1 hour
Number of pitches: 8
Height of route: 800'
OverviewFA: Drew Spaulding and Ty Hydrusko, 4/18-19/2001.
This is reportedly a good eight-pitch climb that has only seen a handful of ascents. Riddler’s Delight ascends the right-hand of two obvious crack systems in wall. Pitch 2 is an easy landmark to find the route by. It climbs a straight-in hand crack in black rock. The original Pitch 1 climbs up a chimney under some precarious blocks. There is a slightly cleaner and safer variation to the left that requires two pitches and begins in the cleft at the base of the original start. Climb a clean chimney in a left-facing corner capped by a roof. There is a bolted anchor at the top of the corner. From the bolted anchor, climb up and over the buttress between the bolted anchor and the hand crack of the original Pitch 2 (this requires a bit of 5.7 down climbing).
Rack: 2 ea .33-4”, nuts (offsets, or RPs), 2 60m ropes, bolt kit and extra cord or webbing for backing up rappel anchors
Descent: rappel the route.
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