The Vigil, The Watchman IV 5.11
Avg time to climb route: 1 day
Approach time: 1-1.5 hours
Descent time: 1.5 hours
Number of pitches: 10
Height of route: 1500' route, 2700' total
OverviewFA: Dave Jones, Mark Austin to Pitch 8, 1990. FFA: Dave Jones and Conrad Anker, 5/14-15/1992.
The Vigil is strongly recommended by Dave Jones, who told me this was his favorite route on the peak. Pitch 1 starts in a 165-foot right-facing corner with a wide crack in it. The original 5.8 rating was re-rated 5.phooey and is more accurately 5.10. One hundred feet to the right is a more obvious and cleaner-looking crack. The moves out of the roof on Pitch 3 are exciting and classic. Use caution climbing off the belay on the 5th pitch; serious potential for a factor 2 fall onto the belay here. The final pitch is the crux for most parties. It requires mandatory 5.11+ face moves above a ledge.
Rack: 2 ea to 4, 1 extra 3-4, 1 ea 5.5 or 6, RPs/offsets, nuts, 2 ropes.
Descent: make seven rappels. The top three follow the crack system to the climbers left of the route. The Vigil is a route worth equipping with chain anchors at the existing stations. Expect to cut old webbing off the anchors and replace it with new.
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