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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Wednesday, March 20, 2019 

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Format: Printed Guidebook
 
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Gettiní Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
IíNíI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating



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