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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Tuesday, May 21, 2013 
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 

Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations

Features only available in eBooks:  
Always Fresh™ — free updates for three years

Immediately ready for download (no shipping charges)

      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review
  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review
  “Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer
  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 
Try before you buy!
We’ve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo you’ve ever seen!
Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating

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