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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Friday, October 30, 2020 
Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
Price: $26.95 (no shipping cost, save 41%)
Format: Downloadable eBook (PDF)
Ships in: immediately downloadable
Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 

Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations

      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review
  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review
  “Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer
  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 
Try before you buy!
We’ve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo you’ve ever seen!
Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating

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