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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Thursday, September 18, 2014 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Gettiní Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
IíNíI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating



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