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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Wednesday, June 29, 2016 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Gettiní Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
IíNíI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating



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