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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Tuesday, August 16, 2022 
Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
Price: $26.95 (no shipping cost, save 41%)
Format: Downloadable eBook (PDF)
Ships in: immediately downloadable
Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 

Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations

      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review
  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review
  “Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer
  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 
Try before you buy!
We’ve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo you’ve ever seen!
Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating


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