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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Wednesday, February 11, 2026 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
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Format: Downloadable eBook (PDF)
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating




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