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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
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Complete
List of Included Climbs |
Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review  |
Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
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