Gettin’ Western, West Temple V 5.11
Avg time to climb route: 1 day
Approach time: 2 hours
Descent time: 2 hours
Number of pitches: 18
Height of route: 3800' of gain
OverviewFA: Darren Cope and Brad Quinn, 10/90 (originally Gettin’ Western VI 5.10 A2). FFA: Doug Byerly and Doug Hall, 10/93.
One of the more adventurous free climbs in Zion. Be bold and be warned. Expect a bit of everything: quality rock, choss, run outs, unprotectable chimneys, and bushy pitches. An earthquake in 1992 may have altered the route (i.e. more loose debris than what the first ascent team may have encountered).
There are two parallel crack systems that begin at the base of the cliff and head towards the large, lone, ponderosa pine tree marking the bivy for the first ascent team, and the halfway point of the route. Both cracks are climbable and there are options all over. Use your binoculars, and scope the best way for you. From the big ponderosa pine, the angle kicks back a bit and the route climbs the big left-leaning cleft in the peak.
Approach: From the entrance to the park drive south through Springdale. Turn right on Lion Blvd. (second street on the right). Drive west on Lion Blvd. to the cul-de-sac at the end of the road. Either park in the cul-de-sac or, if your spending more than a day, park in the dirt lot about 400 feet back down the road towards the city park. Walk up the paved road past the O.C. Tanner Amphitheater and drop into the drainage.
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