Avg time to climb route: 1 day
Approach time: 45 minutes
Descent time: 30 minutes - 1 hour
Number of pitches: 8
Height of route: 800' route, 1700' total
OverviewFA: Randy Cerf, Wes Krause, and Ron Olevsky 4/77.
This is the original route up this aspect of the peak. The information on this one is a bit conflicting as whether or not it actually goes free. The report I have has both ratings for free and aid and both are crossed out. It’s an interesting-looking line that seems as though it would be worth going up to find out. Climb the center of the three obvious cracks on the northwest face of Mt. Spry. It appears that the only section of aid is at the obvious roof halfway up the first crack system. The FA team did a variation that required face climbing right out of the corner below the roof to a stance with “hidden bolts.”
Approach and descend as for Sandblaster.
Rack: pro to 6”, many in the offwidth sizes recommended for the central pillar crack
Descent: It’s possible to descend the crest of the south ridge. Many rappels and some serious route finding required. The FA team reported descending down the east side of the peak requiring two rappels. They most likely exited out of the mouth of Spry Canyon, located where the East Temple and Mt. Spry meet. No further details are known at this time.
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