Disco Inferno, Desert Shield Area V 5.9 C2+
Avg time to climb route: 2 day
Approach time: 5 minutes
Descent time: 1 hour
Number of pitches: 8
Height of route: 800' route, 900' total
OverviewFA: Calder Stratford, John Middendorf, and Josh Cannon, 1/95.
This route has six mostly free pitches, one sustained C2 pitch, and a bat hook/bolt ladder pitch is the crux until someone fills the eroding holes with bolts. Compared to Desert Shield the aid climbing is easier, the free climbing better, and the headwall is a little less spectacular.
The Pitch 3 5.8 chimney is LONG, sustained, and has little protection. You can avoid it by doing the first three pitches of Desert Shield but you miss the quality Pitches 1 and 2.
Calder Stratford started and led most of the route. He was 17 and it was his first new big wall route. He encourages future parties to fill in the eroding BAT hook holes with bolts. You can also use a cheat stick to get by the bat hook holes. Original rated PDD for Pretty Damn Disco.
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