Better Safe Than Sorry, Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain I 5.8 or II 5.10+

   
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Zion National Park, Utah, USA

  • Currently 0.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 4-5 hours
Approach time: 30-45 minutes
Descent time: 1 hours
Number of pitches: 4
Height of route: 500'
Overview
FA: Martin Fick Weiler, Robert Steenmeyer 10/17/2002

Begin behind a small pillar in a right-facing corner. A short boulder problem to a ledge leads to a low angle hand crack, first left then right. When the crack begins to peter out, look up and left for a single bolt on a slab just below a large tree. Belay from tree or go left to a communal rap anchor with The Gunswinger (5.8). You can descend with one rope from here and you can also reach around the corner and easily set up a toprope on the Crimson King. Pitch 2: Move belay up through a small bulge and some loose ledges to the base of the huge right-facing corner. Pitch 3: Climb up the corner and move out right under a roof/undercling (5.10+) or continue up the finger crack in the corner (5.11) to a ledge and belay from a bolted anchor. Pitch 4: Work up and left to the flake with a really cool hand crack and follow it to a stance on the aręte. Belay at the ledge or continue up the aręte to the top of the tower.

Rack: for Pitch 1 only: 2-3 ea 2”-3.5”. For Pitches 2-4: 2 ea .5-4”, 1 ea 5.5”, 1 ea extra 2-3”, 60m rope.

Descent: four rappels from chain anchors down the northwest face of the tower using one 60m rope.

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Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain - Better Safe Than Sorry I 5.8 or II 5.10+ - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Bryan Bird
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