Monkeyfinger, Temple of Sinewava IV 5.12b
Avg time to climb route: 1 day
Approach time: 5 minutes
Descent time: 1-1.5 hours
Number of pitches: 9
Height of route: 1000'
OverviewFA: Ron Olevsky and Rob Schnelker, 5/78. FFA: Drew Bedford and Pokey Amory, 1984.
Monkeyfinger is a beautiful line with high quality stone. Sun hits the route mid-morning. It was the first long hard free climb in Zion. The route is usually climbed as a free or mostly free route in a long day. The first six pitches have the best rock. Yet keep in mind that the final two pitches offer interesting and challenging climbing. Pitch 1 climbs a low angle slab past a seep with long grass growing out of the cliff and traverses left across a ramp and eventually down-climbing to the base of the pillar on Pitch 2. Many parties solo this pitch. Route finding is a bit tricky on the seventh pitch—pay attention. The crux Pitch 3,The Black Corner,has desperate stemming and finger locks up the obtuse corner with small nut placements. Pitch 6 is easier than it looks: climb the offwidth using hidden holds inside and outside the crack for pro and upward progress.
Rack: see topo.
Descent: rap the route with two ropes.
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