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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
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Complete
List of Included Climbs |
Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review |
Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
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