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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Wednesday, October 4, 2023 
Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
Price: $26.95 (no shipping cost, save 41%)
Format: Downloadable eBook (PDF)
Ships in: immediately downloadable
Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 

Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations

      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review
  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review
  “Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer
  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 
Try before you buy!
We’ve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo you’ve ever seen!
Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b


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