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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Saturday, April 19, 2014 
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 

Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations

Features only available in eBooks:  
Always Fresh™ — free updates for three years

Immediately ready for download (no shipping charges)

      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review
  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review
  “Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer
  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 
Try before you buy!
We’ve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo you’ve ever seen!
Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10

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