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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
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Complete
List of Included Climbs |
Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review  |
Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
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