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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Thursday, June 29, 2017 
Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
Price: $26.95 (no shipping cost, save 41%)
Format: Downloadable eBook (PDF)
Ships in: immediately downloadable
Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 

Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations

      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review
  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review
  “Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer
  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 
Try before you buy!
We’ve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo you’ve ever seen!
Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10

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