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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Friday, October 20, 2017 
Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
Price: $26.95 (no shipping cost, save 41%)
Format: Downloadable eBook (PDF)
Ships in: immediately downloadable
Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 

Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations

      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review
  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review
  “Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer
  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 
Try before you buy!
We’ve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo you’ve ever seen!
Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1

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