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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Saturday, August 2, 2014 

Print Book
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Format: Printed Guidebook
 
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


Features only available in eBooks:  
Always Fresh™ — free updates for three years

Immediately ready for download (no shipping charges)


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Gettiní Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
IíNíI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10



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