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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
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| |
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| |
|
| Complete
List of Included Climbs |
| Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review  |
| Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
| Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
| Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
| Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
| Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
| Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
| Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
| Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
| Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
| Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
| Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
| Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
| The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
| Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
| Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
| Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
| Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
| Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
| North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
| Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
| Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
| The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
| Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
| Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
| North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
| The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
| Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
| The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
| Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
| Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
| Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
| Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
| Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
| Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
| Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
| Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| 10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
| Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
| The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
| Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
| Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
| Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
| The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
| Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
| The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
| Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
| Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
| The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
| Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
| Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
| I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
| S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
| 420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
| Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
| Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
| The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
| The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
| Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
| Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
| The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
| The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
| Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
| Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
| Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| 10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
| Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
| Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
| Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
| Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
| Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
| Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
| Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
| Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
| The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
| Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
| The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
| The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
| Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
| Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
| Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
| Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
| Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
| Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
| Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
| Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
| H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |