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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
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Complete
List of Included Climbs |
Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review  |
Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
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