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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
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| |
|
| Complete
List of Included Climbs |
| Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review  |
| Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
| Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
| Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
| Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
| The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
| Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
| Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
| Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
| G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
| Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
| North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
| Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
| Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
| The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
| Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
| Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
| Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
| The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
| Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
| The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
| Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
| Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
| Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
| Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
| Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
| Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
| Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
| Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
| Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
| 10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
| The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
| Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
| Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
| Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
| The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
| Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
| Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
| Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
| Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
| The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
| North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
| Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
| The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
| Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
| The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
| The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
| POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| 420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
| Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
| The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
| Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
| Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
| The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
| The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
| The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
| Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
| Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| 10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
| The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
| Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
| Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
| Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
| Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
| Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
| Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
| The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
| Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
| Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
| Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
| Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
| The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
| Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
| Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
| Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
| Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
| Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
| Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
| Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
| Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
| Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
| Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
| Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
| Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
| Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
| Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
| Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
| Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
| Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
| Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |