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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Friday, July 19, 2024 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Gettiní Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
IíNíI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating




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