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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Monday, July 13, 2020 

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Format: Printed Guidebook
 
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Gettiní Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
IíNíI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating



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