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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Tuesday, April 28, 2015 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Gettiní Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
IíNíI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating



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