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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Wednesday, September 19, 2018 

Print Book
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Format: Printed Guidebook
 
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Gettiní Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
IíNíI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating



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