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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
|
| |
|
| |
|
| Complete
List of Included Climbs |
| Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review |
| Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
| Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
| Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
| Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
| North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
| Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
| Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
| Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
| Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
| Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
| Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
| Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
| The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
| Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
| Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
| Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
| Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
| Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
| Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
| Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
| The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
| Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
| Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
| Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
| Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
| Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
| The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
| Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
| The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
| The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
| Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
| Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
| Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
| Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
| The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
| Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
| Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
| Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
| Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
| Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
| Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
| Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
| Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
| Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
| Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
| Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
| Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
| Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
| Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
| The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
| North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
| I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| 420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
| Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
| The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
| Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
| Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| 10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
| Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
| Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
| Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
| Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
| The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
| Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
| Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
| Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
| Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
| The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
| Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
| Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
| 10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
| Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
| Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
| Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
| Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
| Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
| Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
| Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
| Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
| Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
| Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
| Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
| South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
| Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
| Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |