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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Wednesday, March 3, 2021 
Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
Price: $26.95 (no shipping cost, save 41%)
Format: Downloadable eBook (PDF)
Ships in: immediately downloadable
Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 

Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations

      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review
  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review
  “Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer
  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 
Try before you buy!
We’ve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo you’ve ever seen!
Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9

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