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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Tuesday, April 22, 2014 
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 

Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations

Features only available in eBooks:  
Always Fresh™ — free updates for three years

Immediately ready for download (no shipping charges)

      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review
  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review
  “Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer
  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 
Try before you buy!
We’ve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo you’ve ever seen!
Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9

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