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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Saturday, June 10, 2023 
Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
Price: $26.95 (no shipping cost, save 41%)
Format: Downloadable eBook (PDF)
Ships in: immediately downloadable
Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 

Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations

      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review
  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review
  “Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer
  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 
Try before you buy!
We’ve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo you’ve ever seen!
Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9


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