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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
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Complete
List of Included Climbs |
Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review |
Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
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