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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
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Complete
List of Included Climbs |
Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review |
Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
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