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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Wednesday, March 17, 2010 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
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Downloadable eBook
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


Features only available in eBooks:  
Always Fresh™ — free updates for three years

Immediately ready for download (no shipping charges)


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9



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