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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Tuesday, February 9, 2010 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
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Downloadable eBook
Price: $26.95 (no shipping cost, save 41%)
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


Features only available in eBooks:  
Always Fresh™ — free updates for three years

Immediately ready for download (no shipping charges)


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9



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