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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
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Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
| Features
only available in eBooks: |
|
Always
Fresh™ — free updates for three years |
Immediately
ready for download (no shipping charges)
|
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
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| Complete
List of Included Climbs |
| Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review |
| Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
| Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
| South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
| Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
| Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
| Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
| Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
| Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
| Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
| Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
| Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
| Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
| Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
| Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
| Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
| The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
| 10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
| Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
| Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
| South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
| Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
| The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
| Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
| Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
| Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
| The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
| Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
| Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
| Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
| Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
| Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
| Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
| Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
| 420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
| Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
| George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
| Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
| Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
| The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
| The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
| Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
| Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
| Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
| Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
| The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
| 10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
| Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
| Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
| The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
| POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
| Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
| Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
| Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
| Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
| Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
| Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
| Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
| Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
| Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
| Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
| Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
| Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
| The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
| Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
| Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
| Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
| Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
| The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
| Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
| Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
| Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
| Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
| Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
| Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
| Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
| Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
| Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
| Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
| Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
| North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
| Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
| Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
| Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
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