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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
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Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
| Features
only available in eBooks: |
|
Always
Fresh™ — free updates for three years |
Immediately
ready for download (no shipping charges)
|
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
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| Complete
List of Included Climbs |
| Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review |
| Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
| Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
| South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
| Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
| Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
| Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
| Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
| Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
| Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
| Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
| Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
| Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
| Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
| Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
| The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
| 10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
| Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
| Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
| Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
| Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
| South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
| The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
| Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
| Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
| Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
| Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
| Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
| Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
| Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
| Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
| 420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
| The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
| Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
| Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
| Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
| Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
| Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
| North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
| Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
| Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
| The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
| Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
| The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
| The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
| Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
| Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| 10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
| Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
| I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
| The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
| POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
| Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
| Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
| Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
| Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
| Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
| Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
| The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
| Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
| Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
| Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
| Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
| The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
| Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
| Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
| Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
| Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
| Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
| The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
| Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
| Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
| Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
| Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
| The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
| Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
| Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
| Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
| Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
| Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
| Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
| North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
| Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
| Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
| Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
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