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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Thursday, September 2, 2010 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
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Downloadable eBook
Price: $26.95 (no shipping cost, save 41%)
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


Features only available in eBooks:  
Always Fresh™ — free updates for three years

Immediately ready for download (no shipping charges)


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9



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