 |
 |
|
Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
| Features
only available in eBooks: |
|
Always
Fresh™ — free updates for three years |
Immediately
ready for download (no shipping charges)
|
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
|
| |
|
| |
|
| Complete
List of Included Climbs |
| Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review |
| Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
| Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
| South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
| Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
| Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
| Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
| Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
| Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
| Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
| Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
| Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
| Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
| Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
| Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
| The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
| Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| 10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
| Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
| Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
| Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
| South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
| Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
| Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
| G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
| The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
| Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
| Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
| The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
| Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
| Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
| Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
| Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
| Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
| Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| 420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
| Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
| Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
| Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
| Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
| Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
| Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
| The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
| Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
| Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
| The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
| Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
| The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
| Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| 10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
| Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
| You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
| The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
| Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
| POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
| Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
| Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
| Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
| Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
| Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
| The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
| Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
| Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
| Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
| Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
| Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
| Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
| Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
| Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
| Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
| Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
| Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
| Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
| Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
| Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
| The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
| Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
| Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
| Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
| Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
| Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
| Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
| Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
| North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
| Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
| Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
| Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |