 |
 |
|
Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
| Features
only available in eBooks: |
|
Always
Fresh™ — free updates for three years |
Immediately
ready for download (no shipping charges)
|
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
|
| |
|
| |
|
| Complete
List of Included Climbs |
| Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review |
| Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
| Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
| South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
| Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
| Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
| Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
| Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
| Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
| Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
| Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
| Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
| Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
| Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
| Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
| The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
| 10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
| Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
| Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
| Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
| Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
| South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
| The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
| Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
| Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
| Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
| Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
| Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
| Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
| Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| 420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
| Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
| Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
| Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
| Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
| Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
| Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
| The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
| The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
| The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
| North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
| Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
| Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| 10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
| The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
| North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
| The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
| Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
| Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
| I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
| The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
| POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
| Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
| Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
| Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
| Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
| Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
| The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
| Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
| Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
| The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
| Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
| Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
| The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
| Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
| Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
| Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
| Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
| Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
| The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
| Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
| Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
| Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
| Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
| The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
| Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
| Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
| Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
| Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
| Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
| Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
| North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
| Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
| Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
| Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |