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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Monday, April 13, 2026 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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[ Thumbnails  | Text ]
Route Name Formation Review
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
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