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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Sunday, April 30, 2017 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Gettiní Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
IíNíI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
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