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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Thursday, October 31, 2024 
Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
Price: $26.95 (no shipping cost, save 41%)
Format: Downloadable eBook (PDF)
Ships in: immediately downloadable
Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 

Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations

      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review
  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review
  “Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer
  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 
Try before you buy!
We’ve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo you’ve ever seen!
Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1


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