 |
 |
|
Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
| Features
only available in eBooks: |
|
Always
Fresh™ — free updates for three years |
Immediately
ready for download (no shipping charges)
|
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
|
| |
|
| |
|
| Complete
List of Included Climbs |
| Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review |
| Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
| Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
| POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
| Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
| Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
| Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
| Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
| Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
| The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
| Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
| The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
| The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
| Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
| Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
| Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
| South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
| Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
| Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
| Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
| Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
| Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
| Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
| Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
| Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
| Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
| The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
| Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
| Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
| The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
| Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| 420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
| Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
| The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
| Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
| The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
| The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
| The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
| Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
| George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| 10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
| Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
| More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
| Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
| Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
| Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
| The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
| Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| 10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
| Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
| Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
| Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
| Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
| Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
| Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
| Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
| Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
| Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
| Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
| Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
| Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
| South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
| Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
| Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |