Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
 “If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
|
| Route Name |
Formation  |
|
|
Review |
| Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
| Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
| Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
| Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
| Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
| Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
| Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
| Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
| 10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
| The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
| Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
| The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
| Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
| Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
| Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
| The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
| Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
| Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
| Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
| Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
| Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
| Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
| Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
| Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
| Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
| Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
| Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
| Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
| The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
| Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
| Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
| Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
| Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
| Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
| Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
| Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
| The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
| Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
| Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
| Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
| North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
| Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
| Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
| Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
| Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
| Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
| The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
| Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
| 10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
| Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
| The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
| North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
| Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
| The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
| S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
| Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
| The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
| Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
| Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
| More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
| Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
| The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
| Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
| Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
|
|
|
