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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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So what do all of you think about sites like mountainproject?
I'm torn. I like to use it, but I'm not sure if I like myself or anyone else putting stuff on it?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 29, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
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When I go there for information I find that it's pretty hit and miss. A lot of pages lack key information like how to get there. But I like seeing comments by people who have done a route or visited an area. If I don't want beta I wont look there.
I'm pretty careful about what I will post on MP. For example the Gorge of Despair stuff is pretty carefully filtered. Some things don't belong on the web but rather should remain as nice surprises for those who actually get there.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 29, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
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How are the views there? Beautiful sunsets?
Personally, I think when you post adventurous climbs they will not ever attract mainstream climbers you would meet at Lovers Leap. The kind of people you will meet will probably be the kind that you can get along just fine. If I go to GOD next year and find a few people there, I would be happy to see them!
So when you do post some new crags without topos/ step by step climb instructions, and with even minimal approaches, they will usually not attract big crowds anyway. Probably it is up to an individual if they want to post or not post- depending if the climb is worthy.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 29, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
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...to go do the thing and down rate it.
Ya think?
I'll just say that I was being very conservative calling pitches two and three 11d. Especially two which as you say throws everything at you but the kitchen sink. Pitch three is more of a boulder problem followed by a bunch of 5.9. Pitch 5 is the business though. I know the factor of intimidation doesn't count in the grade, but holy crap it is wild up there.
Kris you know I am just kidding..... We have never been downrated - ever.
Called sandbagers before, but heck I can't account for others lack of skill.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 29, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
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Guy that reminds me of one of the great climbing quotes of all time...
Some fella I didn't know got shut down hard on one of Scott Loomis' routes at Courtright. He turned to Scott, who was sitting there quite well relaxed, and said "You're a f*cking sandbagger! I can climb 10c. That is no 10c!"
Scott's measured reply: "It's a technical move. I can't help it if you don't know how to climb."
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 29, 2012 - 07:50pm PT
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Kevin all I am is a bit conservative about the grades.
Innocent, Ignorant, or Insecure
None of the above. I just don't like grade inflation. I'm not usually off by much but if I miss it will be under not over by intent. Keeps it real.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
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I like inflated grades. They make me feel hardcore
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 29, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
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Edit: Oh look! My post was at 5:11 - felt like 5:12 to me
Classic!! lol...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 29, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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Kevin.... good post.
When I rate things I always try to go back in my mind to a similar climb and similar moves, based on some sort of standard.
To me the STANDARD is Taquitz.
If something is about as hard as the OpenBook.... i call it 5.9.
to me 10d is hard... and I don't like to call something 11 if its hard for me just cause I had a hard time.
At the GOD the whole thing felt really serious, because of the distance from the road.
That being said, I agree with Kris call on the ratings.
I really get disapointed when I do a climb that is rated ... 11c and in reality goes at like 10d...
One last thing, I never- on purpose - sandbag folks. I think that sucks.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 30, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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At the GOD the whole thing felt really serious, because of the distance from the road.
I think I said it somewhere before, but it is quite interesting how some people would not call GOD as alpine climbing due to relatively low elevation. But being somewhere so remote feels a lot more 'serious/alpine' than climbing stuff on the Hulk or on East Buttress of Whitney.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 30, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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I think I said it somewhere before, but it is quite interesting how some people would not call GOD as alpine climbing due to relatively low elevation. But being somewhere so remote feels a lot more 'serious/alpine' than climbing stuff on the Hulk or on East Buttress of Whitney.
Vitality... The GOD is the most remote place I have ever visited in the Sierra. The "trails" stop at Frypan Mdws.... It's all cross-country hiking but its easy to follow cause you stick to drainage systems. At nite you see no man-made lights. There are/were zero signs that people even go there.... we signed summit registers where we were the third accent... first in 1956, by Ax Nelson.
When your at Whitney, Mt Sill, Hulk... you know that people are around, you can look down and see then on the trails, you find all sorts of man made debrits laying around.... At the GOD we only found stuff laying around that the Native Americans left.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 30, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
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Remote....in the Sierras. I guess that's possible in a relative sense.
Share first ascents this is climbing not surfing.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 30, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
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guyman, how long were you guys there for? saw any petroglyphs? Hope limpingcrab and I will get out there in 2013 for sure. Seems like a sweet place.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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guyman, how long were you guys there for? saw any petroglyphs? Hope limpingcrab and I will get out there in 2013 for sure. Seems like a sweet place.
We would take a week vacation and use the weekends on both ends to do the hiking...
No petroglyphs... better stuff, thats all I will say.
And to Donini.... remote is a relative thing, don't you think? We looked into getting a Helo ride to the top of one of the formations... they are outside of the NP boundry... from Fresno. This would be like a 40 min round trip. No -dice- some stupid FAA regulation about flying low.
But back to the OP.... Yes, I like to share the information about climbs and the climbinig spots I go to. But I do like to get the plumbs picked before spilling the beans to the public.
And Ron, are you counting all the boulder problems?????? ;>)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
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Remote....in the Sierras. I guess that's possible in a relative sense.
Sounds like somebody spent too much time on the east side and in yosemite!
Spent 41 days in the sierra this summer counting fishing, climbing, hiking and backpacking and hardly ever say anyone. Also never saw one climber! But compared to AK and other countries, you have a good point.
We looked into getting a Helo ride to the top of one of the formations... they are outside of the NP boundry
What formation? Harrington? GOD is in the park.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Nov 30, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
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Share!
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Adventure-and-an-FA-at-Merriam-Peak/t11761n.html
It would be great to see more stuff in the AAJ too.
Pretty slim number of reports for California:
http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/north-america/contiguous-united-states-lower-48/california/
I'm sure people are doing more new routes.
I think that new areas will most often be kept secret. Sometimes there are access issues, some times due to potential crowding.
Personally I don't know many people who are willing to put in the effort to do new routes.
It's one thing to do an onsight FA and just leave the climb as you found it (which is totally cool and proud). It's a whole other thing to clean a climb and then execute the FA when it is at your limit. This often means many trips and more total effort.
Kris/Guy your route on the Silver Turret looks totally rad. I was WAY psyched when Kris put it up on Mountain Project. Maybe someday...
Did you guys ever climb at Tehipite Dome? Seems like that would be a good first place to go in the Sequoia/Kings canyon area.
 Luke
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
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Did you guys ever climb at Tehipite Dome?
I have not climbed at Tehipite at least not yet.
As you can see from some of the pictures, when you are in the Gorge of Despair you are looking down at it from above - quite a sight!
There are a couple folks who pop up on these threads from time to time who have done big things on Tehipite. EC Joe of course.
I'd like to just walk out to the top of the thing once from Wishon with enough stuff to hang a couple days and a good photo set up.
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Nov 30, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
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Here are a couple of probable first ascents from two days ago- unless someone climbed them previously and never shared
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 30, 2012 - 09:45pm PT
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No such thing as a first ascent on ice....every year, actually nearly every day, the route changes. Kinda like going to the gym and finding that the green route you finally mastered has become the yellow route.
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