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weezy
climber
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Nov 30, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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Tell em! Some routes get better with traffic.
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Nov 30, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
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ice climbs are ephemeral, but it is justifiable, in my mind, to claim a first ascent of a specific line.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
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Whatever makes you feel like a special snowflake. Within 5 years of your death, no one will give a sh#t other than your loved ones and close friends. Climbers are a peculiar bunch with warped realities and false senses of self-importance. I raise a toast to the forgettable and to those who seem to find a way to get the job done despite the impossible, and oh so cool, opinion of the Internet Superhero.
/cheers!
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Bolts create a more permanent legacy- we all have different forms of self expression I guess.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Sorry Telemon1, I have to disagree. In the context of "life as we know it, bolts are far from permanent. I have seen area bolts "rust" to unrecognizable blobs, soon to be gone forever within 15-20 years. I have seen complete areas striped of hangers and 2 years later you couldn't tell anyone had ever set foot there before.
Is drilling a 3/8" x 3" hole in a rock really that big of a deal considering:
Maybe this is a sign I am just getting old, but who really gives a f*#k? Are we so important as climbers that we can call some small holes in out of the way rocks as a national tragedy? Have we offended God by actually enjoying the outdoors?
As we as a society slowly migrate to the cities and lock ourselves in front of TVs and computers, I don't think we are far away from the vast majority of people not even knowing WTF is going outside their self-imposed prison walls. Climbers enjoying nature in all of climbing forms should be celebrated.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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I wouldn't call myself a hurt driller...any more that is :-) I have seen a shift, to the positive lately in the general climbing community. Well at least the ones that actually climb. My biggest beef has always been with the overriding premise that being negative and hyper critical is cool.
Given my interaction with the younger climbers hitting the crags these days, it appears that fortuntely this negativity is mostly relegated to the Internet Heroes of my and previous generations. I honestly think the climbing community will be better off as a whole after our generations are dead and gone.
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haireball
Mountain climber
leavenworth, WA
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I love "adventure" climbing, just eyeball a line and go, so I often climb routes with no more beta than the route name, grade, and location. In managed venues (like national parks) where climbs are restricted by registration and permit, my fa's have obviously been reported. However,loving the adventure and uncertainty as I do,I'm willing to leave it for others, too - so I've gravitated to NOT reporting first ascents of new alpine routes. That way, the next climber or party can enjoy the same mental/emotional experience that I did. If someone later claims the FA, big deal. Caveats, I do share new routes with close friends that I know will greatly enjoy them; I also greatly enjoy historic classics, and I do research these ahead of time; and I'm not above using a topo on a long climb with challenging routefinding. I guess sharing/reporting for me is situational.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Bump for good thread. Tired of that shipooppiishitshowbullshit on the front page.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Roughster;....interesting observations;...thanks for sharing. I do understand what you are saying;...it does seem, especially on the internet, that being negative/cranky/pissed off/hard-ass is often considered cool. Seems like first ascents are often magnets to kooky peoples rants. First ascents also leave written footprints for gov. agencies to point the finger at climbers saying foul/over-use/abuse;..and then comes more rules/regs/restrictions. I love to share info on my FAs......but I don't like more rules/regs/restrictions. The whiners/complainers/kooks who like to rant about FAs and bolts and such;....well;....as I get older;...it's just entertainment and amusement mostly now-a-days;.....I can't get too worked up about it. I try not to say much about climbs being new routes or old routes;....best just to say; "I went climbing;...I had fun.".....and really;....that's enough and tends to keep things simple. I agree w/Donini too;....share the info;..this is climbing;..not surfing. I like to climb, and I wanna know. Warbler hits the nail on the head too;...it is about exploration, nature, the search/quest, discovery, hanging w/your homies. Warbler;..tell me more about the hot chicks in skimpy clothing;.....all I see usually is Tucker with a beer.
"Yesterday we went climbing;...we had fun."
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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The bolts really have nothing to do with the "Legacy".
What will endure is the line and to a lesser extent its place in time in the chronology of climbing evolution.
The decision to drill is one that opens the driller to a full range of emotional feedback from other climbers, from thankfulness and respect to ridicule and derision. All these can change and evolve just like everything else people do or believe.
A legacy can't be one until it's been looked at through the filter of years gone by, and its impact, value, weight, or lack thereof can only be measured in juxtaposition with others' works and history's turns.
Kevin, very well put, and thoughtfull.
Me, I just love to climb new things, go new places and challenge myself.
If it was Josh for the rest of my life, I would just die.
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dave bingham
Sport climber
Hailey ID
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Why are climbers such stupid asses?
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