North Buttress 5.10b/c

  • Currently 3.0/5

Merriam Peak

High Sierra, California USA

Trip Report
Adventure and an FA at Merriam Peak
Thursday November 15, 2012 12:29pm
Over the 4th of July weekend this was summer I was able to go spend some time at Merriam Peak. I had seen photos that showed potential for new lines and read stories of existing classic routes.

Casey leads the crux pitch of the Dr. Bearlove Project
Casey leads the crux pitch of the Dr. Bearlove Project
Credit: cultureshock

We diverted from the routine of going to the Incredible Hulk and headed up in search of the Sierra gold. We managed one new route, but couldn't free climb all of the pitches. Read on below for the full adventure.

Topo showing The Flying Buttress aka Croft-Rands Left(green) a...
Topo showing The Flying Buttress aka Croft-Rands Left(green) and the Dr. Bear Love Project.
Credit: cultureshock

Full scoop:



  Trip Report Views: 3,075
About the Author
Luke is a trad climber and occasional runner from Sunnyvale, CA.


Nor Cal
  Nov 15, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
bump for the sierra range. strong work, looks stellar up there.

Social climber
your mom's house
  Nov 15, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
Fecking sweet!!!!!

Thanks for an awesome TR!!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 15, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
Very nice report, Luke. Glad you guys found your own line of passage, AND climbed two more routes on top of that!! Since you called it 'project' how keen are you to go back and try to free the line?
Also, nice to hear that my TR was one of the reasons you wanted to check the place out. That area is incredible. Feather has 2-3 routes on the face too, but supposedly rock is not great.

PS: your face looks familiar, do you work out in PG sunnvale?

  Nov 15, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
An excellent trip report in many ways- well written, great topo photos and good adventure. The topos are really appreciated (as are your Hulk topos)...Keep up the good work!

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Nov 15, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 15, 2012 - 11:29pm PT

  Nov 16, 2012 - 12:03am PT
Yeah! Hell yeah!! Awesome report, way to get after it back there. That peak is built from some amazing stone for sure. Thanks for the TR that got me psyyyyyyyyched for some Sierra granite! But it's so far away!!!! Ahhhhhhhhhhh!

Trad climber
Mountain View
Author's Reply  Nov 16, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
Sierra psyche is important no matter what time of year!

Vitaliy, I climb at PG Sunnyvale most weeks. It seems the route could be free climbed but the crux will be 5.12+ and will take some more cleaning. Right now I'm more psyched to climb at the hulk (much shorter approach) and do some of the 5.12 routes there. Blowhard, Eye of the Storm and Ventauri Effect all sound awesome.

I need to build my fitness before going back to Merriam and climbing on the Hulk is a great way to do it.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Nov 16, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
Sweet photos, route and TR. Thanks for sharing.


Trad climber
Mountain View
Author's Reply  May 31, 2013 - 01:24pm PT
Bump for Merriam Peak.

Anyone looking for an astounding alpine 5.11 should look at the Flying Buttress:

Quite an amazing route!

Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
  May 31, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
wow, great pics, such beautiful rock up there. and i love the stoke in the short vid clip, heh.
Merriam Peak - North Buttress 5.10b/c - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The prominent North Buttress of Merriam Peak
Photo: Ryan Crochiere