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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 27, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
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That is the question.
What do you do, or would you do when you climb one? Keep it a secret? Make a billboard, facebook, banner, website and guidebook?
I've only been part of a few, so I'm no expert. But since I love the idea of standing (or hanging) where nobody else ever ever has in the history of earth I hope to be part of more.
Here are some pros and cons off the top o' me head while thinking about what to do in the future:
Con
-more people might come to the area
-haters gonna hate/argue/judge
-less unknowns for others
-someone thinks they're doing an FA when they're not (maybe a pro, but I don't want to be that someone)
-someone comes later and claims the FA
Pro
-extreme fame, glory, and recognition
-sharing climbs with other climbers
-naming things is fun
-groupies
-keeping people up to date on the area (I like to know what's going on)
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 27, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Tweet for sure.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 27, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
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I reported one once so others would not die
Ballistic wall
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 27, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
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Totally situational like everything else about climbing.
If I stumble into a new area with potential, I like to keep it on the low low among a few friends so we get to pick the cherries. Once that is done the word goes out so folks can enjoy the place. I mean after all if I did the legwork to find the place, fair is fair, right?
On the other hand if you find and do a good new route in an established area there is not much point to keeping it a secret, right? It's just another resource for the community.
Not part of your question, but one I think about a lot, is why do FA's which are not high quality? I see this in a lot of places and it makes me wonder. Like food and wine and ale, quality should come before quantity.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nov 27, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
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What kind of first ascents are you referring to? There are multitudinous types of climbing on a huge sliding scale of magnitude.
Who cares about some "first ascents" on some random chosspile somewhere? Probably only the "first" person to climb them.
If you are climbing a "first ascent" with the sole motivation being to report your effort, you are doing it for the wrong reason.
Humans are so narcissistic.
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ec
climber
ca
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Nov 27, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
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Greg?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 27, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
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extreme fame, glory, and recognition, groupies
Damn, that Fortress thing did not bring us any of that. We gotta find better rocks! just kidding.
Personally, I would report if I think it is a worthy climb. Would report if I had a lot of fun on the climb/liked my partners/had a story to share. Actually same as any TR I would want to post. If I did not have fun on some climb/hated my partners, than I don't even want to talk about it.
So, ummmm..like...you think Homer's Nose will bring us groupies? When is we going? ;)
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nov 27, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
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Greg who?
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 27, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
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I've done it both ways, but looking back I should have reported more of them. They end up with bolts next to perfect cracks.
All of which nobody really cares about anymore, including me.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Nov 27, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
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Kris nailed it.
If you do FA's for yourself and your "group", don't report.
If you do FA's so other people will enjoy them, then share after you have FA'd all the good lines.
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ec
climber
ca
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Nov 27, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
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Kalimon = Greg = Narcissus
 ec
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MisterE
Social climber
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Nov 27, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
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Cons of sharing:
Access across private property could be lost with more people.
Trail braiding and erosion if an area becomes popular with no established trail.
A climber with good experience and vision should be able to bolt adjacent routes so that they use the features and natural lines without crowding one another. Too many first ascensionists create disparate and often conflicting visions and lines.
It's really nice, especially if you live most of your life in an urban area to have the crag and the whole scene all to yourself and your partner. Even one other party changes the experience completely.
Trash, dog problems, kids, toilet paper and associated waste, gear ripped off from stashes, broken holds, greasy holds, trampled vegetation, noise, waiting to get on classic routes or problems, general distraction and commotion, thoughtless bolting, cigarette smokers/butts, competition/rush for first ascents of classics.
Pros for sharing:
Hot young chicks in tight skimpy clothing - that's about it : )
^^Where's the love of sharing the fruits of your efforts, Warbler?
Are you being sarcastic cuz I am not seeing much love for the community in that last post.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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Nov 27, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
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I don't want anyone on the Peak of Many Couloirs, it's my friends and I's little secret, so it was never reported.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 27, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
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is that a euphemism ?
Hot young chicks in tight skimpy clothing - that's about it : )
^^Where's the love of sharing the fruits of your efforts, Kevin?
to share or not to share?
depends on the area.. like...
Yosemite Valley (eventually share)
Tuolumne Meadows (eventually share)
Hetch Hetchy (never share)
certainly there are great routes around to do, and one wonders if the talk gets too loose on an area that others will come and do the lines you're interested in...
and it is nice that there aren't that many people around, but look at Parkline Slab development in the past 5 years which has exploded with lots of people doing FAs... and not that happy about squeeze jobs and some of the overbolting... the word got out there and lots of routes went up...
good or bad?
there are lots of other areas in the Valley which are developed, but not well known yet, and there are places being developed... still a lot of potential....
tell or not tell?
I've never ever been able to answer that question.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 27, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
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Report all your secrets to Fox News.
Tell them everything ......
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Nov 27, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
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share = spray
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MisterE
Social climber
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Nov 27, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
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I know you are, just checking in.
In Arizona, there is so much, I just got used to sharing the wealth...it also helps clean up the routes with more travel.
Different rock, different attitude. I have an idea:
Choss is for sharing
clean rock is for the in-crowd.
How does that sound?
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Heyzeus
climber
Hollywood,Ca
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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I agree with Warbler 100%, sarcastic or not.I enjoy a certain experience of peacefulness when climbing that becomes scarce once it's on the meet-up.com group climbing radar. So I do not think that "choss vs. clean rock" should be the qualifier. For me, it's about how many people live nearby vs. amount of local rock. LA and SD has a lot of people and not many options.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:17am PT
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nice boulders!
Vitaly, long live the fortress! I finally figured out what you were referencing at Pinns. I'm a little slow.
To Limping... only share with close friends. Eventually it will get out, might as well enjoy it as much as you can til then.
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skywalker
climber
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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Many years ago I lived in this place that so far has seen little spotlight despite some of the best damn bouldering for many, many miles. We made up names for areas and routes and it was fun. But it was never "published". I'm sure all those that went there and still go believe that they are doing an FA and are all stoked but aren't doing an FA. And I'm sure all my FA's aren't as well. But its fun thinking that way but ya know if it stays that way then there are so many FA's for the future.
My point is to what end is the reporting? Boulders get washed by nature and who knows if its been done before and that is the magic of a place like that.
If its a 40ft 10a rap bolted route who cares?
If its a 4000ft epic 20 day adventure; I'm all for stories and pictures!
Do it for the right reason and understand that all the "gardening" done in the precess may not be the best place for your name, or your FA.
My 2 cents
S...
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