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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Nov 28, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
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For most of my routes, I can't think of who I'd be "reporting" them too.
"Yeah, I did this totally rad new route called Lost in the Woods on an unnamed crag in an unnamed location. You drive up Silver Fork rd for four or five miles and look for a big tree by a pullout, then dip into the woods heading south, south east for about 2 to 2.5 miles until you come across a hidden circular dome in the trees (it's the route on the left) the climbings no harder than .10a, maybe a couple .10d moves."
Good luck everybody!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 28, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
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So.... where is "I am" AKA StoneMaster Martin V. ???
Would love to get his take on this.
I do FAs for the excitement.... back in the 70's it was easy to drive up to some rock, see a good line and climb it. If you didn't find the usual hints that its been climbed, tat, faint pin scars, loose stuff you knock off... you might be on a FA.
The whole clean climbing deal, for me, was so that everybody could get the feeling of climbing a virgin chunk of stone.
I have had climbs claimed by others even though I have photos with the date stamp.....
It did make me sad to have a climb Erik and I did in Sequoia on "Little Baldy" - now named "hoodwink" just bolted over. We did it with like 8 bolts in 4 pitches, most on the first pitch....we had some PRE PRODUCTION FRIENDS and they really cut down on the need for bolts. A few years later some Bosh welding climbers put in like 30 bolts.... They were confused when they would find a 1/4 incher every now and then.... OH well.
Now I like to leave Dimes and Nickles from the current year. So if you ever find a dime sticking in a crack.... look at the date.
But now that we have places to record FA's I turn em in.... once my buddies say OK to list.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Nov 28, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Hey there, Dingus,
I second guess myself pretty regularly, about that draw.
I don't think too many people will go in there more than twice...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 28, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
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Then there's the places where you go do some really proud FA's, tell the whole world how really awesome the rock is (thinking that climbers really deserve to know about this stuff and get on it) and no one ever goes and repeats these routes (which are as good as it gets) because they are true back country climbs, and apparently most climbers can barely walk.
I had a good laugh when, a few years ago, a climbing mag article referred to The Needles as a "back country area." Christ, you can car camp there.
At least we've been able to share the great climbing at The Rincon with a few hard men and women who don't mind hiking uphill, and it looks like my friend and neighbor Justin is about to make the journey too, but how about the Gorge of Despair? It is no secret that for those able to handle the logistics and approach there are not only great routes there to climb, I think Despairadoes awaits a second, but the opportunities for new routes are amazing.
So there. I sprayed but I doubt it will exactly draw a crowd.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
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Guy: Hoodwink is four pitches? Crap, I thought I climbed it but only went one pitch. Next time... Looks like you should have sprayed :)
Kris: I can't stand that I haven't been to gorge of despair! You're right that most climbers won't walk, I've met very few people who would consider going there. It scared me at first when you put stuff online about it, but then I realized that nobody is going there even if you make a G.O.D. guidebook. I've seen it from every side, but have yet to climb... Desperairadoes looks sweet, but is out of my league. Maybe if I wore tights
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 28, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
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Maybe if I wore tights
Tights are essential! You see, if you paint yourself into a corner by wearing flashy clothing you are in a position where failure is not an option. Go up there in some frumpy outfit and when you bail all your buds say "good effort." Go up in bright orange lycra and bail and your buds all call you a fag. That's incentive for ya.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
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Hahahaa!!! Now I get it!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 28, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
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That's trippy - goes through that stack O Ceilings/Arches?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 28, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
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From where I am there, it goes up and right through one more flap, then into the corner for a few wild moves up past that tooth, then out a bit left on the actual arete, then back in the corner. It's a friggin' wild pitch!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 28, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
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If I went up there to do the 2nd ascent and pulled it off I would not tell a soul. I would write a (very obscure) poem about it and post on the poetry thread.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 28, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
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YO Limpingcrab
I was just kidding about tweeting, I don't even know how to tweet. I just thought it would make a cute first post.
What I did this summer was spray endlessly on facebook and post some shots on supertopo.
Had to be kind of ambiguous about location, though, because there are still some sweet lines to be had.
I think once most of the best lines are done did, the main man will do a little mtn proj thing and give topos to the local guidebook guy.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Nov 29, 2012 - 04:31am PT
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whatever you do...beWARE the n00bs! We are everywhere, lurking in the shadows, just waiting for that key piece of info that will lead us to the heaven of all climbs we KNOW is just over the next ridge.
Who knows, if we find it, we may just come to love, respect, and care for it ourselves...or not, and share it willy-nilly!
so beware, because you can't really tell if the n00b will care or jump straight to share.
But not everyone deserves to know, and in my experience, that kind of trust is earned.
2p
cheers
LS
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rich sims
Social climber
co
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Nov 29, 2012 - 11:01am PT
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77-91 I remember hours of searching out boulders in SDeggo.
The year before I left and moved to Colorado I had a conversation with a concrete finisher who climbed EC Mountain and other areas in SD in the 50s.
I showed him the red SD county guide and he showed me where old CCC trails were.one trail made reported 4 hour bushwack into a 30 minute stroll. Access was an issue to getting to some areas.
He left his rack an rope on top of EC Mountain after an epic accent.
It has been almost 25 years that we last talked, but it would be interesting to talk to him again.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 29, 2012 - 11:18am PT
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Go up there in some frumpy outfit and when you bail all your buds say "good effort." Go up in bright orange lycra and bail and your buds all call you a fag. That's incentive for ya.
WOW great tip. That is how you free climb through hard terrain! They don't tell you this sh#t in "How to climb 5.12" books!! This thread is golden.
I had a good laugh when, a few years ago, a climbing mag article referred to The Needles as a "back country area." Christ, you can car camp there.
Soon people will be complaining about approaches to Buttermilks.
Why Desperadoes did not see 2nd ascent (maybe)? Think of it this way. If you can climb 5.12, why would you go all the way there to repeat a route? You are likely to look for own first ascents, or repeat routes closer to the road (unless it's a real striking line. I think the new free climb on Angel Wings may see a 2nd and 3rd at some point). How many striking lines on Tehipete Dome were repeated? And that's Tehipete Dome!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 29, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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The pictures do not show how steep Desperadoes really is....
Its doubble overhanging!!! The photo of Kris, where you head right looks like you get to a rest spot, but NO... its OW and you... well I, was clinging for dear life to just regain my breath. Then the climb gets really steep.
Im just watin for some young buck (Miles, Vitality, Limping)to go do the thing and down rate it.
It really not that far of a hike, if you use the Mules. Hiking out is done in one day and its not a death bushwack by anymeans.
And Limping... Yes Hoodwink went to the top... pretty much straight up from the end of P1... follow the many bolts of the Merkin.
And Dan... Did you see the photo of your pack? I still lug that one around when I have a big load to haul.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 29, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
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...to go do the thing and down rate it.
Ya think?
I'll just say that I was being very conservative calling pitches two and three 11d. Especially two which as you say throws everything at you but the kitchen sink. Pitch three is more of a boulder problem followed by a bunch of 5.9. Pitch 5 is the business though. I know the factor of intimidation doesn't count in the grade, but holy crap it is wild up there. Thank God for tights!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 01:07pm PT
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I'd probably have to be able to climb it to give any input on the rating, and I'm a long way off from that level. It's one of those "someday I hope to be able to climb that" kind of routes.
Has it had a first non-free ascent? I can do that I think.
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Nov 29, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
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When climbing in my home state Texas. No matter how awsome it I don't tell a soul.
Why?
Because, it was still in Texas!
Example first ascent of a 5.11 (?) at Palo Duro canyon. I can't imagine anyone ever giving two shits about climbing that choss depository.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 29, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
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I'd probably have to be able to climb it to give any input on the rating, and I'm a long way off from that level. It's one of those "someday I hope to be able to climb that" kind of routes.
100% lol. These guys think we can climb 5.12. haha. Maybe if someone sets up a haul system.
Seriously though I hope Daniel's knee recovers an we can get out to GOD next year. Hopefully it is doable with your schedule! Most likely I am taking the whole summer off...so many damn places to visit.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 29, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
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"Whatever you do...beWARE the n00bs! We are everywhere, lurking in the shadows, just waiting for that key piece of info that will lead us to the heaven of all climbs we KNOW is just over the next ridge.
Who knows, if we find it, we may just come to love, respect, and care for it ourselves...or not, and share it willy-nilly!
So beware, because you can't really tell if the n00b will care or jump straight to share.
But not everyone deserves to know, and in my experience, that kind of trust is earned."--LS
It's a Killer Kwestion, and one deserving of a think.
I'm divided, and the kwestion is the greater good, obviously. No n00b's equipped with sensitivity. the urge to spread the news of ANY new thing is hard to resist. I like Vitaliy's style, that of doing cleanly as possible the classics, telling of those, and keeping the firsts in abeyance, so to speak.
If it's a local crag, the Grotto up in Jamestown, for example. There are many lines, and only the locals know 'em. Word gets around, like it or not, because the chalk's still there. There's no need for anyone to crow, because it's one pitch, it's not changing the course of history to add that to the general fund of knowledge.
Of course, this practice of hiding FAs leaves guidebook editors weeping, but F them.
In an "arena" like the Ditch, Zion, THE GUNKS, and Squamish, things need to be arranged and re-arranged from tome to tome. It keeps them editors happy and is a valuable historical tool. The smaller crags it's just up to the individuals who climb there the most often to pass around the information.
It was easier by far in the past to keep up than it is now. You looked at the Sierra Club Bulletin, then Summit, then Climbing. And for international reports you had Mountain and the AAC. It was a totally different game then, in the seventies.
Today it's much easier to report, so I imagine it is more tempting to put up the news of your latest 5.7c, which is only a variation on an existing line sandwiched in between two others which follow two separate bolt lines, whose origins are so well-documented in the two-page copy of a Zerox that passes for the local guidebook. Tough choice there.
Why bother? Is God going to come down and anoint you Herself?
If one were Werner, though, it would be a total different other thing entirely, un bound byconvention, fearless of the outcome...Were I were Werner, I'd get Merry off her butt and go out and do some FAs, write them up, then offer the original hard copies for sale on eBay for whatever I could get, were I Werner.
Climbing Bits from the Yosemite Ritz, that's some quacker.
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