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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2015 - 06:05pm PT
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On a related note Ryan told me he accidently fixed a cam on that pitch that was there for several years and then one spring it was at the base of the cliff. tells us that the whole thing flexes considerably when the seep freezes allowing the cam to fall out with the spring melt. nailing that seam very well could split it off and change the rout dramaticly. We need a rule for this!
;)
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jul 26, 2015 - 06:17pm PT
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Tradman,
I guess when I'm dead and under the ground, all this stuff really won't matter. The next generation of climbers will create a whole new set of rules.
Re-read my previous post.
I bet you were glad to clip that bolt on the 4th pitch! On the 1st ascent, that slab was wet, and there was no pro. after the overhang. Glad I didn't peel!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 26, 2015 - 06:28pm PT
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There are rules for narcissism? Really?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2015 - 06:33pm PT
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We were wimps and did not get that far. We waited a long time while the folks ahead of us worked the route and my rope gun lost his stoke. I have never been on it before and am not a very strong rock climber so was not up for leading P 3 after watching muscle bound tall skinny strong looking kids take multiple whips.. I was super stoked to get as far as we did and now have a bit more confidence that I could follow the climb. As far as that extra bolt goes its probobly fair to say that the route would not be anywhere near as populer as it is without that bolt. We all tremendously respect what you did on the FA but we are also very thankfull that you have allowed that bolt to stay!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 26, 2015 - 08:17pm PT
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That is a #1 beak placement.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Jul 27, 2015 - 04:43am PT
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Rules?
They make my day.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jul 27, 2015 - 05:56am PT
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As for other silly climbing rules--I like the one that says "Pull down, not out."
What to do when chimneying on Half Dome?
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Andy Middleton
Trad climber
Cow Hampshire
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Jul 27, 2015 - 09:15am PT
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Trad - yes some rules are stoopid, and some are followed/not followed depending on the situation. But what you are advocating for in this instance is a line of bolts 3ft left of those classic corners. Kinda glad at least some rule was followed in this case... Also - are there any actual rules about chopping lines?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jul 27, 2015 - 09:50am PT
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The rule is do your best job to leave the challenge that nature presented in it's natural condition for other climbers to experience.
The rule isn't stupid. The placement didn't follow the rule.
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Gunkie
climber
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Jul 27, 2015 - 09:55am PT
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BURT BRONSON'S ethical sense sez: "Real men ought to use a shoulder stand from the top steps to avoid drilling."
Can't be BURT BRONSON; it should be written like, "REAL MEN OUGHT TO USE A SHOULDER STAND FROM THE TOP STEPS TO AVOID DRILLING."
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Gunkie
climber
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Jul 27, 2015 - 09:57am PT
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Tradman, been on Mordor Wall these days?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jul 27, 2015 - 10:03am PT
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SO RIGHT!!!!
I WILL HAVE TO HARDEN MYSELF, THE F*#KUP.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 27, 2015 - 10:49am PT
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The rule isn't stupid. The placement didn't follow the rule.
Amen! Oh, and some of our "rules" seem stupid, particularly with hindsight.
I think Moof also gets it right. There are plenty of well-protected free climbs out there. I see no need to have every climb grid bolted. Dealing with runouts is part of the traditional climbing experience, and plenty of climbers still enjoy the fulfillment the traditional experience brings. To each his or her own.
John
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Jul 27, 2015 - 12:06pm PT
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+1.on what John just stated...
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Jul 27, 2015 - 02:22pm PT
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I have a tradition of FAing all my routes with a buttplug, so I insist all that follow do the same.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jul 27, 2015 - 02:26pm PT
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Patrick Compton, most of these old farts would suck on your ground-breaking "Red Route," 5.13bpx.
My mousketeer hat is off to you, sir.
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CascadeOtto
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 27, 2015 - 03:18pm PT
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In my beginner climber days I was shamed into following the local Rule: He who is not driving to the mountains brings the beer.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Jul 27, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
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Patrick Compton, most of these old farts would suck on your ground-breaking "Red Route," 5.13bpx.
Its really this new gym climbin, sporto bouldering generation this is missing out by not following my traditon of buttplugs while sending the gnar.
kids these days climb like 12s after a year in the gym without ever even trying even a small buttplug. It is truly the downfall of climbing.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2015 - 04:15pm PT
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No way am I advocateing a bolt there. I simply took a picture of a manufactured placement and thought it would start a good discussion. The discussion is open to any and all of our rules. when you take a step back many of they are pretty damn silly. Especially a rule that allows a hard aid climber to chip a hold...
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