Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2015 - 12:08pm PT
|
We are all going to hell. Enjoy your days on earth.
When that time comes, most of us will be rigging biner brakes.
Others will be breaking out their jumars, but most of those that do ain't climbers...
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
|
But we are all ok with giant poles and steps that are manufactured to the top of half dome.
Go chop that, in righteous indignation, and see if it makes the news. Hikers on top of Half Dome, WTF?
|
|
big wall paul
Trad climber
tahoe, CA
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2015 - 01:21am PT
|
obviously that guy in NH should have placed a bolt and graded his climb 5.6 A0. It probably would have made the climb more popular, because parties would be thinking about that A0 move!
As for grabbing the draw (regarding a post earlier in the discussion), I'm all for that!
I am basically a 5.9 A0 climber, and that style has gotten me up some awesome 5.14 climbs.
Climbs are often like mountain bike rides: 97% ride-able and you walk around the other 3%.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 05:45am PT
|
Paul. in reality what is the real difference? Drilling a hole and pounding a piece of metal into it, clipping nylon to it and grabbing said nylon makes him a hero in most climbers minds. Chipping a piece of rock off and grabbing the resulting hold makes him a zero in most climbers minds. You can't use the robbing the impossible and saveing it for future generations argument because the thousands of climbers who could do the move are not going to hike an hour and a half and climb 5 pitches of 5.6 to savor an easy boulder move. On the other hand the moderate climber out for a nice easy back country climb willingly grabs the manufactured hold and then passes judgment on the routes creator. It's a 1st world problem which brings me back to my origional point. stupid climbing rules..
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2015 - 06:36am PT
|
On the other hand the moderate climber out for a nice easy back country climb willingly grabs the manufactured hold and then passes judgment on the routes creator. It's a 1st world problem which brings me back to my origional point. stupid climbing rules..
FMG, third world problem, mutilation for what, again?
Don't chip holds for free climbing isn't a stupid climbing rule, there is no game if you do, unless the whole rating system gets thrown out as well.
Try Stupid climbing rules and ratings naxt.
|
|
big wall paul
Trad climber
tahoe, CA
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2015 - 02:14pm PT
|
Trad: yes, I agree, both are instances of modifying the rock to gain upward progress. And silly of us to think either is better or worse than the other.
But obviously the NH guy had to do something to get past that spot. I remember even Dan Osman having drilled holes into routes to get past blank spots, and everyone respected him. Well, for the most part :). Shows how relative we apply our stupid climbing rules are. I don't see them as cut and dry, I see them as degrees of evil that we enact upon the stone, in an effort to provide progress up the route. Like all the bat hook holes you see alongside Offwidths -- deplorable they are, but there they are since someone couldn't get past that section of rock.
At least we are fairly respectful of the stone. heck, we better be since we worship it so much. I can't imagine living in another area where holes, chipping, glueing holds etc is more widespread.
|
|
madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
|
1) Seek to scare yourself to gain character (plus, being scared is fun).
2) Seek to live through it, so that you gain the benefits of (1).
3) Start at the bottom and climb up using the features the rock presents in the ways that seem best to you, all things considered.
4) Be honest about what you did.
5) Employ your gains from (1) to endure the flack you will get from (4) because you broke somebody's rules from (3).
Rinse and repeat.
|
|
JimT
climber
Munich
|
|
I'm not really qualified to offer an opinion. But for comparison consider the wide variety of European rules (which range from "via ferrata" routes to the super-strict & perhaps insane "ethics" of Dresden [?] area crags.
Though it might (???) be a good idea, I don't imagine North America will be seeing construction of many via ferrata routes.
Via ferrata are nothing to do with rock climbing or mountaineering, they are roped tourism.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!