Who is working at the El Cap bridge?

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Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 9, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
Credit: Nanook
Itís been my pleasure to meet many of you at the bridge lately, so figured Iíd introduce myself and answer everyoneís burning question: Whenís Tom comin back? (Sept 8th if you donít want to read the rest.) Tom traditionally leaves from July 4th-mid-Sept, so Iím working more during this time. I donít have a big gun camera set up like Tom now but hopefully Iíll get one together by next summer.

Iím Erik Sloan, and Iím working this year with the YCA/NPS on the Ask a Climber Program and Climbing Stewardship Program. I worked here in the park from í02-í12(I dirtbagged from '94-'02), but am just back working for the summer and finishing a new, comprehensive Yosemite Bigwall book(Roger Putnam is co-author, Don Reid is master contributor, website is yosemitebigwall.com) that will be out late fall.

Iíve climbed El Cap 84 times, have climbed over 130 bigwalls in the Valley, and have helped replace over 2000 bolts on bigwall climbs here. But I struggle to free climb 5.9 so I have plenty in common with most aspirant wall climbers. I love all the walls here in the Valley and have climbed most of them, so if youíre looking for beta on an obscure wall or route I might have some info to share.


The weather is perfect in Yosemite, come and climb!
cheers,
erik
yosemiteerik@gmail.com
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Aug 9, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
Nanook, Thanks for volunteering.

I'll have to come by the bridge and troll you:

"How do they get the ropes up there?"

"How many people have died while rock climbing?"

"Do they know about the trail that goes around?:

"I'm a member of the Geographic Society, you know."

"I'm afraid of heights."

"Are those extreme rock climbing?"

"I went rappelling once."

"How do they get down."

"Is that legal?"
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Aug 9, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
Nanoonk TFPU

Spider to funny

cause it's so true
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Aug 9, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
That's one cute kid. I'm guessing that little feller is gonna keep your feet on the ground more often than not!
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Aug 9, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
i'll work there.
i got useful skills
those old logs have to be under designed,
what with the recent 2012 ca. seismic code updates.

hell i got an idea,
an it's worth 4 bucks,
my time to employ worth even less.

we can put ol' caribiners in the new concrete
beam matrix, and we'll have a
compisite of yesterday and today.
we could even break up some of
warren's old jugs: architectural!
and robbins would surely bless this plan
with some historic iron,

someone's gotta have some prat bongs,
maybe the one he placed on twilight,

robinson can pose nude in front of the
low-impact operation
and he'll finally get his proper portrait
in the national's geographic.

and thus we'll hold up the future's passage
with yesterday's exploits.

as should be,
in yosemite.

we could do the whole thing
by hand, smashing (imported) limestone
into caco3, buckets of water, and
sand from the merced,
gravel from el caps diapers,
we got concrete, folks.

let's work.

we'll let evans stir the mud,
(he can keep shooting stalwart photos all-the-while)
and i'll keep the operation pinned,

the formwork is no sweat,
it's what i do everday,

el cap bridge.
retrofit.

let's get busy.

FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Aug 9, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
^That might be one of the best ideas I have ever heard.
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Aug 9, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
And you do a great job of it. Chasing down tourons and making them look through the scopes. What a job!
A5scott

Trad climber
Chicago
Aug 10, 2013 - 12:24am PT
Hey Nanook,

I'll look forward to seeing you at the bridge... saw you a bit ago when the two kids got down from zodiac. (and the nose)

thanks for manning the bridge, and your big wall site is great too

scott
Fletcher

Trad climber
The great state of advaita
Aug 10, 2013 - 12:53am PT
Good on ya, Nanook. Thanks for carrying the load through the summer.

Eric
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Aug 11, 2013 - 06:51am PT
Erik glad to see that you are giving some of your background..
I met you last June and the beta and encouragement was awesome. Thanks.

Folks this is one cool dude and super friendly.

Thanks for all the hard work.
See you in Sept.

Plaid

Deekaid

climber
Aug 11, 2013 - 11:27am PT
an amazing number of ascents. almost hard to imagine the work and fun involved.
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
Thanks. I realize that I forgot one of the important reasons for my post:

It's fun to fill you in on some of the amazing bigwall climbs happening in the Valley, like the 3 separate teams/leaders 8-man asian ascent of Lost in America last week....incredible to watch them all two pitches apart sending!

Jesse McGahey, head Yosemite climbing ranger in the Valley and an amazing climbing advocate/guy wanted me to make sure to say that when I post on ST I am not representing the National Park Service in any way.

Several folks have emailed me, so thought I would add my email:

yosemiteerik@gmail.com

best,
erik

couchmaster

climber
pdx
Aug 12, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
Cute kid in your photo Erik. No "Ask a climber question"; from me. Children are our future, it's nice that they get conditioned early. Oh, since you used the lad to promote Yosemite as a volunteer, be aware that he is now government property. Put him down and walk away so that your masters can raise him as they * cough *know* cough * that they will do a better job at that than you. Sorry, I know that you are an awesome dude, but your new masters have left a bitter taste in my mouth: the %%@##X& bastards. It ain't you, it's me.

Bitter big government reference link here in case anyone is wondering as I'm sure my foul diatribe come out badly:-)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2201220/Capt-Tom-resigns-from-Bridge-NPS-and-Conservency

And congrats on the job Erik, you totally kick ass. Take care all




ps, I'm kidding about the government claiming the youngun. .....I think. ....They do seem pretty damned presumptuous on claiming every other goddamned thing to be theirs though. For instance, the photo you just posted would be owned by them, da gobment (THEY SAY), if you took it on the bridge. It's just more big government bullsh#t and wrong in many ways. In fact, why are taxpayers paying people to "ask a climber". It's just more money wasted for mo real reason. Are the government overlords afraid what a normal climber would say when asked some dumbass question that they need to pay someone to answer them?

Never mind.

Congrats




Offset

climber
seattle
Aug 12, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
yo erik...

you look like a proud pops! can junior point out the black cat to tourons yet?

keep the stoke alive on the bridge (tourons need love too)
b.bob
Gene

climber
Aug 12, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
The kid looks like he just saw a stuck cam he can booty.

g
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2013 - 09:20am PT
Things are picking up on Le Cap, a couple ascents of the Shield this week. Whenever someone climbs the Shield they look at me and go, 'man it would be so cool to have climbed those cracks in the early 80s...'

and I always say the same thing:

Climb Afroman on Washington Column and you get the Shield headwall(but even steeper) like it was in the early 80s--splitter thin cracks!

This is the #1 bigwall that I'm recommending right now for folks who have done a few classics. Incredible climb.

check it out:

http://yosemitebigwall.com/routes/washington-column/east-face/afroman
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Aug 15, 2013 - 09:31am PT
Pleased to meetcha, too, little guy.

And Erik, same for you.

Yah, who keeps score after 100 big ones, anyway?

I wouldn't bother, shid gets soooo boring after so many...

That was a nice idea, Weej.

We could all contribute and get to place a handprint in the new concrete.
Clint.
Clint.
Credit: GI
We'd have Clint Cummins and Rick Sylvester front and center.
Sylvester.
Sylvester.
Credit: GI

This could lead to a new retard question for Erik.
 <br/>
Erik, where's Tom Evans's prints?  I've seen absolutely all his pic...

Erik, where's Tom Evans's prints? I've seen absolutely all his pictures.
Credit: GI
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
Afroman looks really nice from the topo.

Has it gone clean or nearly clean yet. It would be a shame to see it hammered out anytime soon.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Aug 15, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
Nope! No reason to get on Afroman right now. Definitely no one's fixed on it with intentions to blast this weekend. Nope, nope, nope.

Although it's probably a good idea to get on it after next week because a lot of the gardening will have been done for you. (And there's a LOOOOOT of flora on that sucka. Welcome to the Jungle indeed.

Pitch 2 can go clean on current fixed heads, but probably not without it.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 15, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
anybody can do walls on aid

Yeah, but how many tears are shed on the hard pitches is what separates the fluff from the braun.

People need to bring Eric Some BEERS!!! All I saw donated was fruit baskets and organic fig newtons.

Well Major Tom will have the libations flowing shortly...
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