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Mark Sensenbach

climber

Aug 15, 2013 - 11:11pm PT

Sloan thanks to you and the geology master for helping the boys out this summer.
Look forward to having a brew sometime-m

Erik Sloan

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 09:30am PT

Thanks! Warmed back up a touch but still cold at night and perfect up on the wall. Folks coming down say they were comfortable in long sleeves all day. Shield boys were leading in a jacket.

Afroman clean? It'll be a while before Afroman goes clean probably John.........

Note about clean aid climbing: Because 70% of El Cap traffic is on the three clean routes: Nose, Salathe, and Lurking Fear, it is easy to think that all bigwalls are clean these days. That could not be further from the truth. There are around a 100 El Cap routes, and only 3 of them go clean without fixed gear. Now when you say something like this people are quick to say 'well Zodiac is often done clean, or with a handful of pin placements' which is true, but because the aid ratings system is relatively closed(everything is A3 or A4 on El Cap) it is hard to really guide people with ratings. And it's important to know what you're getting into. No one learns to climb pounding pins anymore, so we hardly have to worry about people putting in pins if they an get a bomber cam. A good goal cud be to have a YCA lending library of camhooks, hooks, and maybe offset cams that folks could take on walls in Yosemite--that would do the most good to helping walls go clean.

Cheers,e

ps. The dumpsters at Manure Pile are a better place to put your wag bags than the small trashcan at the bridge ;)

TRo

climber

Aug 16, 2013 - 11:14am PT

Watching you "work" the bridge is like watching a Jedi master. Thanks for making Shane and my trip better.

elcap-pics

Big Wall climber

Crestline CA

Aug 16, 2013 - 11:49am PT

Great having you at the Bridge E... feel like all my work is being carried on in good style with a well informed and helpful guy.
Best of luck to you Erik and thanks for picking up the pieces!
See you soon Bro!!

Erik Sloan

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 05:39pm PT

Thanks Tom.....We've got the chair all set out for you. Look forward to having you back soon.

Great to meet you too Tom.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Aug 16, 2013 - 10:23pm PT

Afroman clean?

Sounds like a gauntlet kev. 😊

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Aug 16, 2013 - 10:41pm PT

He is bringing 40 hawks...

Jingy

climber

Somewhere out there

Aug 17, 2013 - 04:27pm PT

Jesse McGahey, head Yosemite climbing ranger in the Valley and an amazing climbing advocate/guy wanted me to make sure to say that when I post on ST I am not representing the National Park Service in any way.

They call the program "Ask a Climber"…. not "Ask a NPS employee" for a reason…

Nobody goes to Supertopo to find out NPS information. We can always rely on an NOS employee to get it all wrong, overstate and turn everything into a giant pile for the rest of us.

Nanook… I too may stop buy the bridge during those off periods from Tom. I too may troll just to see how it's handled. I always found Tom to be a master climber spokesman.

Cheers

whitemeat

Big Wall climber

San Luis Obispo, CA

Aug 19, 2013 - 07:10pm PT

thanks for the great topo and for the lending us lots of awsome pins man... we couldnt have done it with out ya!

Erik Sloan

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2013 - 06:24pm PT

Alright we got a taker. A little warm yesterday and today but the East Face of the Column goes in the shade just after noon, and tends to be super breezy.

Check out Kevin D from Oakland,Ca crushing the 'Walk the Line' pitch on Afroman with the curvy Tsunami above. Outrageous steepeness!

Erik Sloan

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2013 - 06:31pm PT

Here's one more with the Afroman line drawn in:

Erik Sloan

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2013 - 12:09pm PT

Went up the slabs yesterday afternoon but it was too hazy to see Kev. I think he's topping out right now!

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Aug 26, 2013 - 01:09pm PT

Thanks for the shots of KEV, Erik!

Man that part of the wall is sooo steep.

He says it has been big air dangling the whole way.

Topping out today hopefully, 6 day solo.

Erik Sloan

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2013 - 07:35pm PT

That's awesome. Hopefully he'll put a trip report.

Erik Sloan

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2013 - 10:09am PT

Well it's starting to feel like fall here in the Valley, pretty cold nights and more and more climbers are showing up.

6 teams on the Nose yesterday, two niads.

Someone is finally climbing Mescalito. A young american is going solo for the first ascent of '13. He's on 7 or 8 and moving strong.

A strong team is going for a two day ascent of Shortest Straw.

Lurking Fear had at least one team yesterday.

No one on Zodiac or the Trip, or Salathe/Triple D.

Git Sum!

Ottawa Doug

Social climber

Ottawa, Canada

Aug 27, 2013 - 01:39pm PT

Hey Erik,

It was great to see in the valley this past June. So sorry I couldn't spend more time hanging at the bridge. Next time for sure! T'was a special evening when you yelled over to me from the rim while you were walking down from the Nose. It made for a relaxing night and had me looking forward to a drink at the bridge. Take care till I see you at the bridge next time.

Cheers,
Doug

Erik Sloan

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2013 - 10:56am PT

Straw team bailed. No one east of Mescalito. Awesome sunset with some light fire haze. Nose is getting it all these days. Didn't see anyone over on Salathe. The Brits are up on Lurking Fear. Woot!

Erik Sloan

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2013 - 07:33pm PT

Crazy smokey here today but Mickey(aka Whitemeat) and Aaron charged at the NIAD like it was nothing. They were getting ready to do the King Swing when I left at 215. Woot!

The soloist on Mescalito is probably hauling up to Bismark now, day 7 or 8 and looking strong.

A team showed up moving good on the Zodiac, and a local team that had two fixed headed up there.

Werner says the west wind might make it smokey here for a couple days. Might be more fun to hit the coast.