Who is working at the El Cap bridge?

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 83 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Aug 15, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
Looks like Major Tom bowed out of the touron pleasing game...and can't say I blame him.

Lookin forward to more good times with Sloan in the ditch! Hope yer well, and best of luck on the book...
Nkane

Trad climber
San Francisco, USA
Aug 15, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
Had a lot of fun looking through the scopes on Sunday!

Keep up the good work!
Mark Sensenbach

climber
CA
Aug 15, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
Sloan thanks to you and the geology master for helping the boys out this summer.
Look forward to having a brew sometime-m
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 09:30am PT
Thanks! Warmed back up a touch but still cold at night and perfect up on the wall. Folks coming down say they were comfortable in long sleeves all day. Shield boys were leading in a jacket.

Afroman clean? It'll be a while before Afroman goes clean probably John.........

Note about clean aid climbing: Because 70% of El Cap traffic is on the three clean routes: Nose, Salathe, and Lurking Fear, it is easy to think that all bigwalls are clean these days. That could not be further from the truth. There are around a 100 El Cap routes, and only 3 of them go clean without fixed gear. Now when you say something like this people are quick to say 'well Zodiac is often done clean, or with a handful of pin placements' which is true, but because the aid ratings system is relatively closed(everything is A3 or A4 on El Cap) it is hard to really guide people with ratings. And it's important to know what you're getting into. No one learns to climb pounding pins anymore, so we hardly have to worry about people putting in pins if they an get a bomber cam. A good goal cud be to have a YCA lending library of camhooks, hooks, and maybe offset cams that folks could take on walls in Yosemite--that would do the most good to helping walls go clean.

Cheers,e

ps. The dumpsters at Manure Pile are a better place to put your wag bags than the small trashcan at the bridge ;)
TRo

climber
Aug 16, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Watching you "work" the bridge is like watching a Jedi master. Thanks for making Shane and my trip better.
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Aug 16, 2013 - 11:49am PT
Great having you at the Bridge E... feel like all my work is being carried on in good style with a well informed and helpful guy.
Best of luck to you Erik and thanks for picking up the pieces!
See you soon Bro!!
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
Thanks Tom.....We've got the chair all set out for you. Look forward to having you back soon.

Great to meet you too Tom.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Aug 16, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
Afroman clean?

Sounds like a gauntlet kev. 😊
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 16, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
He is bringing 40 hawks...
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
No Jeff, the bats all fell out I guess. No bat turds or bats in '10.

The first pitch of Afroman goes clean ;)

A route that doesn't get done too much that is pretty clean, and an amazing line/location is Bulging Puke. Check it out:

http://yosemitebigwall.com/bulging-puke
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Aug 17, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
Jesse McGahey, head Yosemite climbing ranger in the Valley and an amazing climbing advocate/guy wanted me to make sure to say that when I post on ST I am not representing the National Park Service in any way.

 They call the program "Ask a Climber"…. not "Ask a NPS employee" for a reason…

Nobody goes to Supertopo to find out NPS information. We can always rely on an NOS employee to get it all wrong, overstate and turn everything into a giant pile for the rest of us.


Nanook… I too may stop buy the bridge during those off periods from Tom. I too may troll just to see how it's handled. I always found Tom to be a master climber spokesman.


Cheers
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2013 - 10:49am PT
Warmed back up a touch, so you might consider the super cruiser Direct Route on Porcelain Wall for something shady.

Erik's top picks for less traveled Yo Bigwalls:

1.Afroman(but plenty of A3)

http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/routes/washington-column/east-face/afroman

2.Bulging Puke(super cruiser, nice bivy ledge but you need a portaledge for the top)

http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/bulging-puke

3.Direct NW Face of Porcelain(Leaning Towerx2 style route((but reverse because the blank part is at the top) with easy cracks to a blank headwall)

http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/direct-northwest-face-0
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Aug 19, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
thanks for the great topo and for the lending us lots of awsome pins man... we couldnt have done it with out ya!
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
Alright we got a taker. A little warm yesterday and today but the East Face of the Column goes in the shade just after noon, and tends to be super breezy.

Check out Kevin D from Oakland,Ca crushing the 'Walk the Line' pitch on Afroman with the curvy Tsunami above. Outrageous steepeness!

Credit: Nanook

Credit: Nanook
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
Here's one more with the Afroman line drawn in:

Credit: Nanook
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
Went up the slabs yesterday afternoon but it was too hazy to see Kev. I think he's topping out right now!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 26, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
Thanks for the shots of KEV, Erik!

Man that part of the wall is sooo steep.

He says it has been big air dangling the whole way.

Topping out today hopefully, 6 day solo.

Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
That's awesome. Hopefully he'll put a trip report.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Aug 26, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
Nobody goes to Supertopo to find out NPS information.

Sure they do... its just not the kind of information the NPS would want us finding.

Example - ask the open question "How are the LEO's in Yosemite" and sit back to observe the work product.... its actually quite predictable, right down to the poster-IDs.

DMT
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2013 - 10:09am PT
Well it's starting to feel like fall here in the Valley, pretty cold nights and more and more climbers are showing up.

6 teams on the Nose yesterday, two niads.

Someone is finally climbing Mescalito. A young american is going solo for the first ascent of '13. He's on 7 or 8 and moving strong.

A strong team is going for a two day ascent of Shortest Straw.

Lurking Fear had at least one team yesterday.

No one on Zodiac or the Trip, or Salathe/Triple D.

Git Sum!

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