Who is working at the El Cap bridge?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 86 of total 86 in this topic
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 9, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
Credit: Nanook
Itís been my pleasure to meet many of you at the bridge lately, so figured Iíd introduce myself and answer everyoneís burning question: Whenís Tom comin back? (Sept 8th if you donít want to read the rest.) Tom traditionally leaves from July 4th-mid-Sept, so Iím working more during this time. I donít have a big gun camera set up like Tom now but hopefully Iíll get one together by next summer.

Iím Erik Sloan, and Iím working this year with the YCA/NPS on the Ask a Climber Program and Climbing Stewardship Program. I worked here in the park from í02-í12(I dirtbagged from '94-'02), but am just back working for the summer and finishing a new, comprehensive Yosemite Bigwall book(Roger Putnam is co-author, Don Reid is master contributor, website is yosemitebigwall.com) that will be out late fall.

Iíve climbed El Cap 84 times, have climbed over 130 bigwalls in the Valley, and have helped replace over 2000 bolts on bigwall climbs here. But I struggle to free climb 5.9 so I have plenty in common with most aspirant wall climbers. I love all the walls here in the Valley and have climbed most of them, so if youíre looking for beta on an obscure wall or route I might have some info to share.


The weather is perfect in Yosemite, come and climb!
cheers,
erik
yosemiteerik@gmail.com
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Aug 9, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
Nanook, Thanks for volunteering.

I'll have to come by the bridge and troll you:

"How do they get the ropes up there?"

"How many people have died while rock climbing?"

"Do they know about the trail that goes around?:

"I'm a member of the Geographic Society, you know."

"I'm afraid of heights."

"Are those extreme rock climbing?"

"I went rappelling once."

"How do they get down."

"Is that legal?"
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Aug 9, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
Nanoonk TFPU

Spider to funny

cause it's so true
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Aug 9, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
That's one cute kid. I'm guessing that little feller is gonna keep your feet on the ground more often than not!
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Aug 9, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
i'll work there.
i got useful skills
those old logs have to be under designed,
what with the recent 2012 ca. seismic code updates.

hell i got an idea,
an it's worth 4 bucks,
my time to employ worth even less.

we can put ol' caribiners in the new concrete
beam matrix, and we'll have a
compisite of yesterday and today.
we could even break up some of
warren's old jugs: architectural!
and robbins would surely bless this plan
with some historic iron,

someone's gotta have some prat bongs,
maybe the one he placed on twilight,

robinson can pose nude in front of the
low-impact operation
and he'll finally get his proper portrait
in the national's geographic.

and thus we'll hold up the future's passage
with yesterday's exploits.

as should be,
in yosemite.

we could do the whole thing
by hand, smashing (imported) limestone
into caco3, buckets of water, and
sand from the merced,
gravel from el caps diapers,
we got concrete, folks.

let's work.

we'll let evans stir the mud,
(he can keep shooting stalwart photos all-the-while)
and i'll keep the operation pinned,

the formwork is no sweat,
it's what i do everday,

el cap bridge.
retrofit.

let's get busy.

FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Aug 9, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
^That might be one of the best ideas I have ever heard.
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Aug 9, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
And you do a great job of it. Chasing down tourons and making them look through the scopes. What a job!
A5scott

Trad climber
Chicago
Aug 10, 2013 - 12:24am PT
Hey Nanook,

I'll look forward to seeing you at the bridge... saw you a bit ago when the two kids got down from zodiac. (and the nose)

thanks for manning the bridge, and your big wall site is great too

scott
Fletcher

Trad climber
The great state of advaita
Aug 10, 2013 - 12:53am PT
Good on ya, Nanook. Thanks for carrying the load through the summer.

Eric
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Aug 11, 2013 - 06:51am PT
Erik glad to see that you are giving some of your background..
I met you last June and the beta and encouragement was awesome. Thanks.

Folks this is one cool dude and super friendly.

Thanks for all the hard work.
See you in Sept.

Plaid

Deekaid

climber
Aug 11, 2013 - 11:27am PT
an amazing number of ascents. almost hard to imagine the work and fun involved.
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
Thanks. I realize that I forgot one of the important reasons for my post:

It's fun to fill you in on some of the amazing bigwall climbs happening in the Valley, like the 3 separate teams/leaders 8-man asian ascent of Lost in America last week....incredible to watch them all two pitches apart sending!

Jesse McGahey, head Yosemite climbing ranger in the Valley and an amazing climbing advocate/guy wanted me to make sure to say that when I post on ST I am not representing the National Park Service in any way.

Several folks have emailed me, so thought I would add my email:

yosemiteerik@gmail.com

best,
erik

couchmaster

climber
pdx
Aug 12, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
Cute kid in your photo Erik. No "Ask a climber question"; from me. Children are our future, it's nice that they get conditioned early. Oh, since you used the lad to promote Yosemite as a volunteer, be aware that he is now government property. Put him down and walk away so that your masters can raise him as they * cough *know* cough * that they will do a better job at that than you. Sorry, I know that you are an awesome dude, but your new masters have left a bitter taste in my mouth: the %%@##X& bastards. It ain't you, it's me.

Bitter big government reference link here in case anyone is wondering as I'm sure my foul diatribe come out badly:-)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2201220/Capt-Tom-resigns-from-Bridge-NPS-and-Conservency

And congrats on the job Erik, you totally kick ass. Take care all




ps, I'm kidding about the government claiming the youngun. .....I think. ....They do seem pretty damned presumptuous on claiming every other goddamned thing to be theirs though. For instance, the photo you just posted would be owned by them, da gobment (THEY SAY), if you took it on the bridge. It's just more big government bullsh#t and wrong in many ways. In fact, why are taxpayers paying people to "ask a climber". It's just more money wasted for mo real reason. Are the government overlords afraid what a normal climber would say when asked some dumbass question that they need to pay someone to answer them?

Never mind.

Congrats




Offset

climber
seattle
Aug 12, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
yo erik...

you look like a proud pops! can junior point out the black cat to tourons yet?

keep the stoke alive on the bridge (tourons need love too)
b.bob
Gene

climber
Aug 12, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
The kid looks like he just saw a stuck cam he can booty.

g
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2013 - 09:20am PT
Things are picking up on Le Cap, a couple ascents of the Shield this week. Whenever someone climbs the Shield they look at me and go, 'man it would be so cool to have climbed those cracks in the early 80s...'

and I always say the same thing:

Climb Afroman on Washington Column and you get the Shield headwall(but even steeper) like it was in the early 80s--splitter thin cracks!

This is the #1 bigwall that I'm recommending right now for folks who have done a few classics. Incredible climb.

check it out:

http://yosemitebigwall.com/routes/washington-column/east-face/afroman
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Aug 15, 2013 - 09:31am PT
Pleased to meetcha, too, little guy.

And Erik, same for you.

Yah, who keeps score after 100 big ones, anyway?

I wouldn't bother, shid gets soooo boring after so many...

That was a nice idea, Weej.

We could all contribute and get to place a handprint in the new concrete.
Clint.
Clint.
Credit: GI
We'd have Clint Cummins and Rick Sylvester front and center.
Sylvester.
Sylvester.
Credit: GI

This could lead to a new retard question for Erik.
 <br/>
Erik, where's Tom Evans's prints?  I've seen absolutely all his pic...

Erik, where's Tom Evans's prints? I've seen absolutely all his pictures.
Credit: GI
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
Afroman looks really nice from the topo.

Has it gone clean or nearly clean yet. It would be a shame to see it hammered out anytime soon.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Aug 15, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
Nope! No reason to get on Afroman right now. Definitely no one's fixed on it with intentions to blast this weekend. Nope, nope, nope.

Although it's probably a good idea to get on it after next week because a lot of the gardening will have been done for you. (And there's a LOOOOOT of flora on that sucka. Welcome to the Jungle indeed.

Pitch 2 can go clean on current fixed heads, but probably not without it.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 15, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
anybody can do walls on aid

Yeah, but how many tears are shed on the hard pitches is what separates the fluff from the braun.

People need to bring Eric Some BEERS!!! All I saw donated was fruit baskets and organic fig newtons.

Well Major Tom will have the libations flowing shortly...
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Aug 15, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
Looks like Major Tom bowed out of the touron pleasing game...and can't say I blame him.

Lookin forward to more good times with Sloan in the ditch! Hope yer well, and best of luck on the book...
Nkane

Trad climber
San Francisco, USA
Aug 15, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
Had a lot of fun looking through the scopes on Sunday!

Keep up the good work!
Mark Sensenbach

climber
CA
Aug 15, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
Sloan thanks to you and the geology master for helping the boys out this summer.
Look forward to having a brew sometime-m
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 06:30am PT
Thanks! Warmed back up a touch but still cold at night and perfect up on the wall. Folks coming down say they were comfortable in long sleeves all day. Shield boys were leading in a jacket.

Afroman clean? It'll be a while before Afroman goes clean probably John.........

Note about clean aid climbing: Because 70% of El Cap traffic is on the three clean routes: Nose, Salathe, and Lurking Fear, it is easy to think that all bigwalls are clean these days. That could not be further from the truth. There are around a 100 El Cap routes, and only 3 of them go clean without fixed gear. Now when you say something like this people are quick to say 'well Zodiac is often done clean, or with a handful of pin placements' which is true, but because the aid ratings system is relatively closed(everything is A3 or A4 on El Cap) it is hard to really guide people with ratings. And it's important to know what you're getting into. No one learns to climb pounding pins anymore, so we hardly have to worry about people putting in pins if they an get a bomber cam. A good goal cud be to have a YCA lending library of camhooks, hooks, and maybe offset cams that folks could take on walls in Yosemite--that would do the most good to helping walls go clean.

Cheers,e

ps. The dumpsters at Manure Pile are a better place to put your wag bags than the small trashcan at the bridge ;)
TRo

climber
Aug 16, 2013 - 08:14am PT
Watching you "work" the bridge is like watching a Jedi master. Thanks for making Shane and my trip better.
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Aug 16, 2013 - 08:49am PT
Great having you at the Bridge E... feel like all my work is being carried on in good style with a well informed and helpful guy.
Best of luck to you Erik and thanks for picking up the pieces!
See you soon Bro!!
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
Thanks Tom.....We've got the chair all set out for you. Look forward to having you back soon.

Great to meet you too Tom.
mt10910

climber
Aug 16, 2013 - 03:59pm PT
astroman still stuffed with dead bats?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Aug 16, 2013 - 07:23pm PT
Afroman clean?

Sounds like a gauntlet kev. 😊
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 16, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
He is bringing 40 hawks...
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2013 - 11:21am PT
No Jeff, the bats all fell out I guess. No bat turds or bats in '10.

The first pitch of Afroman goes clean ;)

A route that doesn't get done too much that is pretty clean, and an amazing line/location is Bulging Puke. Check it out:

http://yosemitebigwall.com/bulging-puke
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Aug 17, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
Jesse McGahey, head Yosemite climbing ranger in the Valley and an amazing climbing advocate/guy wanted me to make sure to say that when I post on ST I am not representing the National Park Service in any way.

 They call the program "Ask a Climber"Ö. not "Ask a NPS employee" for a reasonÖ

Nobody goes to Supertopo to find out NPS information. We can always rely on an NOS employee to get it all wrong, overstate and turn everything into a giant pile for the rest of us.


NanookÖ I too may stop buy the bridge during those off periods from Tom. I too may troll just to see how it's handled. I always found Tom to be a master climber spokesman.


Cheers
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2013 - 07:49am PT
Warmed back up a touch, so you might consider the super cruiser Direct Route on Porcelain Wall for something shady.

Erik's top picks for less traveled Yo Bigwalls:

1.Afroman(but plenty of A3)

http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/routes/washington-column/east-face/afroman

2.Bulging Puke(super cruiser, nice bivy ledge but you need a portaledge for the top)

http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/bulging-puke

3.Direct NW Face of Porcelain(Leaning Towerx2 style route((but reverse because the blank part is at the top) with easy cracks to a blank headwall)

http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/direct-northwest-face-0
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Aug 19, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
thanks for the great topo and for the lending us lots of awsome pins man... we couldnt have done it with out ya!
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
Alright we got a taker. A little warm yesterday and today but the East Face of the Column goes in the shade just after noon, and tends to be super breezy.

Check out Kevin D from Oakland,Ca crushing the 'Walk the Line' pitch on Afroman with the curvy Tsunami above. Outrageous steepeness!

Credit: Nanook

Credit: Nanook
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
Here's one more with the Afroman line drawn in:

Credit: Nanook
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2013 - 09:09am PT
Went up the slabs yesterday afternoon but it was too hazy to see Kev. I think he's topping out right now!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 26, 2013 - 10:09am PT
Thanks for the shots of KEV, Erik!

Man that part of the wall is sooo steep.

He says it has been big air dangling the whole way.

Topping out today hopefully, 6 day solo.

Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
That's awesome. Hopefully he'll put a trip report.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Aug 26, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
Nobody goes to Supertopo to find out NPS information.

Sure they do... its just not the kind of information the NPS would want us finding.

Example - ask the open question "How are the LEO's in Yosemite" and sit back to observe the work product.... its actually quite predictable, right down to the poster-IDs.

DMT
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2013 - 07:09am PT
Well it's starting to feel like fall here in the Valley, pretty cold nights and more and more climbers are showing up.

6 teams on the Nose yesterday, two niads.

Someone is finally climbing Mescalito. A young american is going solo for the first ascent of '13. He's on 7 or 8 and moving strong.

A strong team is going for a two day ascent of Shortest Straw.

Lurking Fear had at least one team yesterday.

No one on Zodiac or the Trip, or Salathe/Triple D.

Git Sum!

Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Aug 27, 2013 - 10:39am PT
Hey Erik,

It was great to see in the valley this past June. So sorry I couldn't spend more time hanging at the bridge. Next time for sure! T'was a special evening when you yelled over to me from the rim while you were walking down from the Nose. It made for a relaxing night and had me looking forward to a drink at the bridge. Take care till I see you at the bridge next time.

Cheers,
Doug
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2013 - 07:56am PT
Straw team bailed. No one east of Mescalito. Awesome sunset with some light fire haze. Nose is getting it all these days. Didn't see anyone over on Salathe. The Brits are up on Lurking Fear. Woot!
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
Crazy smokey here today but Mickey(aka Whitemeat) and Aaron charged at the NIAD like it was nothing. They were getting ready to do the King Swing when I left at 215. Woot!

The soloist on Mescalito is probably hauling up to Bismark now, day 7 or 8 and looking strong.

A team showed up moving good on the Zodiac, and a local team that had two fixed headed up there.

Werner says the west wind might make it smokey here for a couple days. Might be more fun to hit the coast.
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2013 - 07:11am PT
Any word from Mickey aka Whitemeat? I saw him leading the Great Roof an hour before dark. Woot!

Less smokey here today.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Sep 1, 2013 - 07:41am PT
Yeah, I want to hear wether Micky and Aaron sent!
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
The push became shove I think, but they styled to the top this morning.

El Cap is rockin! You can really feel the difference when Sept. hits.

3 FA going down right now on obscure walls. Two teams on Zode, team on the Trip, Soloist still rockin Mescalito, regular Nose steadiness, one team low on Salathe.
FrankZappa

Trad climber
Hankster's crew
Sep 1, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
Damn i miss that place!

So Erik, when can I expect to see you and the boy back at Martin Park?
Mark Sensenbach

climber
CA
Sep 1, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
Nanook thank you for all the support for the boys. Great talking w you and all the crew at the bridge!
i think a tuolumne meadows ipa drip line would work too. :)

white meats pops
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
Thanks Mark! Good times.

Things are pretty mellow for Sept. here. Perfect weather!
macleodnc

Big Wall climber
ca
Sep 3, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
Nanook, that first team on the Zodiac was My friend Will and myself, and it was my first big wall! any chance, you or anyone down on the bridge took any photos? If there were any taken from down there it would be much appreciated if we could see them!
Cheers, Norm
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 3, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
whitemeat report!


between the smoke,breif rain, and me having to lead 90%... we did it in 31 hours! I started with a pace of getting to sickle in 1.5 hours and finished with a pace of 30 minute pitches. it was way harder then I thought it could be but I will go back and crush it some other time!

trip report coming soon!!!!!
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 3, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
Sweet! Can't wait to be driving south!
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2013 - 03:35am PT
Yo Norm good send!

Kenny Yager told me the other day that the YCA has a nice dslr now, so if we could only get a long lens we could be shooting from the bridge all year.

Things are slowing down a little on the Cap, but we still got a decent showing. Weather is perfect!

One team on Salathe, Couple on the Nose but pretty thin down low, Mescalito soloist topped out last night after 11 or 12 days woot!, Trip got a couple, Zodiac just emptied last night, Eagles Way got a couple.

If you like the Leaning Tower(or Warren Harding bolt ladders ;) and you're looking for an easy weekend wall on an outrageous formation, check out The Direct on Porcelain Wall:

http://yosemitebigwall.com/direct-northwest-face-0

cheers, erik
http://yosemitebigwall.com/direct-northwest-face-0
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2013 - 07:27am PT
Another full shade, off the beaten track classic with a shorter approach than the Porcelain:

http://yosemitebigwall.com/routes/higher-cathedral-spire/northwest-face
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Sep 4, 2013 - 09:30am PT
[quote]easy weekend wall on an outrageous formation, check out The Direct on Porcelain Wall:

http://yosemitebigwall.com/direct-northwest-face-0[/quote]

That sounds fun for future. You think it might be a good option for winter? Gets sun in the afternoon, or not much?

Thanks for posting
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2013 - 11:37am PT
not much. And the approach would be pretty tough with a normal amount of snow and ice. It's perfect right now ;)
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Sep 4, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
I saw Erik Sloan this morning in the Camp 4 parking lot. My partner and I had packs on heading for the Falls Trail. He asked what we were doing. I jokingly said "Power drilling a bunch of bolts on other peoples routes"

He said "right on!" "That's cool!"

What a douchebag
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
hey man! eric is sure as hell no "douchebag". he is the most humble, cool person in yosemite! I assume your joking but just sayen!
mt10910

climber
Sep 4, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
pretty clear anyone who uses the term "douche
bag" needs to work on their creativity-stuck in the 80's are we?

Did you have a bolt kit in those bags? What for?

also pretty clear Anyone that puts bolts at belays, drills lines of
holes up blank rock has many a bolt to stand on, but not a high ethical pillar
to call out from.

but while we are acting all preschool-what is wrong
with power drilling?

And do you think you own a rock cause you climbed
it first? That is a good one
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
Hey guys,

No need for any arguing. That's just the way Eric talks, like he's from Alcatraz instead of Marin ;)

Man I wish I was up on the walls instead of cranking on this book....have fun up there Eric!
Offset

climber
seattle
Sep 5, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
if everyone had your zen, erik...

to steal one from warren miller (sort of): on their death bed, nobody says "i wish i would have argued about bolts on more"
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2013 - 06:50am PT
Don't know how many of you are thinking of coming down to climb. The weather is incredible and the Valley is empty. Camp 4 has had tons of spots open the last several nights.

The Nose has a couple parties below the Legs. Zodiac has Korean team fixed to 2, and another time starting to fix. Eagles Way has two parties.

Git sum!
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2013 - 07:28am PT
Haha, we've got a big Korean team and a disabled team on Zodiac, so the stars might have twice or three times as many people as the King. The Nose is pretty wide open still.
WTF

climber
Sep 7, 2013 - 07:35am PT
What I like about Nanook is no matter who says what about him he just keeps it civil and positive.

You make this site a better place. Thanks.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Sep 7, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
"I saw Erik Sloan this morning in the Camp 4 parking lot. My partner and I had packs on heading for the Falls Trail."

Clearly a troll. Klaus hasn't been even been seen in the Valley in years, let along seen with climbing gear. {wink}
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Sep 7, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
What I like about Nanook is no matter who says what about him he just keeps it civil and positive.

You make this site a better place. Thanks.

Can't argue with that.
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2013 - 07:39am PT
Folks finally showed up on the Nose, with a righteous bottleneck in the Stovelegs. Of course every party but one bailed. Take it easy folks--it's fine to ask someone to fix your line if they slowed you down massively, or you can offer to send a leader up their haul line and take off leading(belayed by their leader while he hauls) to start a passing sequence.
The Nose also has a rap station and some alternate belays that can facilitate passing. Keep going up!


Team on the Salathe. A couple on the Muir. 10 people on Zodiac, more than the Nose! Two teams of 5 though(party on!). Sky Detray is leading an all veteran assent of Zodiac. Mescalito has still only seen one human all year....pretty quiet.
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Super smokey today. Check the webcam before coming up if you're flexible with your dates. Cool red Sun out there but not that much fun to exercise in.

QITNL

climber
Sep 8, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
Yeah, I noticed that on the cams and maps today. The fire is still real active off the Tioga Road roughly 6 miles NW of you. The wind shifted straight in your direction. That's a hard line to maintain as it moves east, I don't think they can use dozers, they are just trying to keep it North of 120. It will probably keep burning for a while.
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2013 - 08:25am PT
It's more clear today than yesterday.

Looks like a couple more parties queing up for Zodiac, and Nose is getting it a bit. Otherwise pretty quiet.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Sep 9, 2013 - 08:26am PT
Isn't "Working at El Cap Bridge," an oxymoron?
Ikat

Social climber
Carson City
Sep 9, 2013 - 08:39am PT
It's an ugly job, but someone's gotta do it.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Sep 9, 2013 - 09:17am PT
I don't have first hand knowledge about what Klaus is pissed about, but in general terms:

also pretty clear Anyone that puts bolts at belays, drills lines of
holes up blank rock has many a bolt to stand on, but not a high ethical pillar to call out from.

Someone who has the reputation of putting up very difficult lines in great style is exactly the kind of person who has a high ethical ground to speak from. There's a huge difference between putting in bolts on an FA and adding bolts to someone else's climb. If this in fact happened.


but while we are acting all preschool-what is wrong
with power drilling?

Power drilling in a national park wilderness areas is illegal and jeopardizes access and current fixed anchor policy for all of us.

And do you think you own a rock cause you climbed
it first? That is a good one

When you put up an FA you have a reasonable expectation that it will be left in it's original condition as much as possible to preserve the challenge you had the opportunity to climb. Replacing a difficult move that could be one of the most memorable highlights of a climb for future climbers with a forgettable A0 bolt move isn't cool. A climb is also a testament to the vision and ability of the FAist. Yeah it bums me out there are moderate climbs done as a free solo that I'll never be able to do, but I wouldn't consider adding bolts so I could do it, I'd just hike farther out and find my own FA to do in a style that matches my ability.
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
Yo Guys,

I'm happy to talk to anyone about their ethics, in person or when I have time online. But I'm just using this thread to introduce myself and to fill people in about what is happening on El Cap and the other walls around the Valley.

Seems like there will always be several ideas at the campfire and to me that is what makes Yosemite awesome. We definitely won't agree on everything but we remember the important things like watching the sunset from the ledge or meadow, drinking deep from this well of enthusiasm.

neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Sep 9, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
hey there say, Nanook... thanks for introducing yourself and this thread...

had tried to post a welcome, thing, but stalled out on dial up...

got lots of chores, these days, around the ol' homestead (well, the ol' rented house that i live in, thanks to the ex-son-in-law--and i pretend it is "ye ol' homestead", as it feels a bit like the ol' woodsy type thing--have a firepit, but no fireplace, but that is sure fine, as well)...
but:

wanted to get in and say thanks for sharing...

not sure what other stuff is going on, but just
stopped to say god bless to all, and happy climbs, shares, and
all else...

there is just no place like yosemite, so i love to hear what is
going on...

E.L. "One"

Big Wall climber
Lancaster, California
Sep 9, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
Eric seems OK to me. And I'm too old to be a ballcupper ! I believe he has stepped forward, where most others haven't, to provide a service to the climbing community. Don't understand why we can't leave it at that.


Cracko
mt10910

climber
Sep 9, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
yes "hole world" is great style and likely the best route on el cap
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 9, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
Thanks for keeping the "El Cap Report" and the stoke alive Eric!
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2013 - 06:12am PT
Well, The Captain is filling up with climbers and Captain Tom is here shooting so feels like everything is back to normal bliss.

The weather is perfect.

Nose is getting lots but the Salathe nots, so consider the more masculine of the great pair. Kevin D, fresh off his solo of Afroman, is on New Dawn solo. A couple teams on the Zode. Triple D has one team after the traverse. Stefan from Austria solo on the Muir. Shield team of 4 topped out late yesterday.

Go for it!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Sep 14, 2013 - 07:17am PT
Is Tom going to post soon on his site El Cap Report site?

Plaid
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Sep 14, 2013 - 07:18am PT
Woohoo! Blasted to pitch three of New Dawn with 11 gallons of water on and food for daaaays. I keep looking down, waiting to be able to see you guys on the bridge! I can feel the Nanook vibes even if I can't see'em!

Someone needs to teach these monkeys to respond to monkey calls, get's lonely up here.

Heyo Hep!!!
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2013 - 08:23am PT
El Cap report starts tomorrow! woot! woot!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Sep 15, 2013 - 06:04am PT
Right on Erik! Can't wait for the next installment. Glad Tom will be back.

Plaid
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
Definitely picking up now.

A local couple set out on the Fear. Pete blasted on Horse Play, Salathe got a couple. Two teams going for Sunkist, Triple Direct got one, Nose is steady. Kevin D is crushin on New Dawn to Tribal solo. Lambone is fixing on the Trip, Zodiac got a few.

Beautiful weather here now. A little warm in the middle of the day but a good breeze and awesome vibe. Live it up!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Sep 15, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
Two teams on Sunkist?
Messages 1 - 86 of total 86 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews