Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 61 - 74 of total 74 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Sep 9, 2013 - 11:26am PT
Isn't "Working at El Cap Bridge," an oxymoron?

Social climber
Carson City
Sep 9, 2013 - 11:39am PT
It's an ugly job, but someone's gotta do it.
the Fet

Sep 9, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
I don't have first hand knowledge about what Klaus is pissed about, but in general terms:

also pretty clear Anyone that puts bolts at belays, drills lines of
holes up blank rock has many a bolt to stand on, but not a high ethical pillar to call out from.

Someone who has the reputation of putting up very difficult lines in great style is exactly the kind of person who has a high ethical ground to speak from. There's a huge difference between putting in bolts on an FA and adding bolts to someone else's climb. If this in fact happened.

but while we are acting all preschool-what is wrong
with power drilling?

Power drilling in a national park wilderness areas is illegal and jeopardizes access and current fixed anchor policy for all of us.

And do you think you own a rock cause you climbed
it first? That is a good one

When you put up an FA you have a reasonable expectation that it will be left in it's original condition as much as possible to preserve the challenge you had the opportunity to climb. Replacing a difficult move that could be one of the most memorable highlights of a climb for future climbers with a forgettable A0 bolt move isn't cool. A climb is also a testament to the vision and ability of the FAist. Yeah it bums me out there are moderate climbs done as a free solo that I'll never be able to do, but I wouldn't consider adding bolts so I could do it, I'd just hike farther out and find my own FA to do in a style that matches my ability.
Erik Sloan

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
Yo Guys,

I'm happy to talk to anyone about their ethics, in person or when I have time online. But I'm just using this thread to introduce myself and to fill people in about what is happening on El Cap and the other walls around the Valley.

Seems like there will always be several ideas at the campfire and to me that is what makes Yosemite awesome. We definitely won't agree on everything but we remember the important things like watching the sunset from the ledge or meadow, drinking deep from this well of enthusiasm.


Social climber
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
hey there say, Nanook... thanks for introducing yourself and this thread...

had tried to post a welcome, thing, but stalled out on dial up...

got lots of chores, these days, around the ol' homestead (well, the ol' rented house that i live in, thanks to the ex-son-in-law--and i pretend it is "ye ol' homestead", as it feels a bit like the ol' woodsy type thing--have a firepit, but no fireplace, but that is sure fine, as well)...

wanted to get in and say thanks for sharing...

not sure what other stuff is going on, but just
stopped to say god bless to all, and happy climbs, shares, and
all else...

there is just no place like yosemite, so i love to hear what is
going on...

E.L. "One"

Big Wall climber
Lancaster, California
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
Eric seems OK to me. And I'm too old to be a ballcupper ! I believe he has stepped forward, where most others haven't, to provide a service to the climbing community. Don't understand why we can't leave it at that.


Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 9, 2013 - 09:05pm PT
Thanks for keeping the "El Cap Report" and the stoke alive Eric!
Erik Sloan

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2013 - 09:12am PT
Well, The Captain is filling up with climbers and Captain Tom is here shooting so feels like everything is back to normal bliss.

The weather is perfect.

Nose is getting lots but the Salathe nots, so consider the more masculine of the great pair. Kevin D, fresh off his solo of Afroman, is on New Dawn solo. A couple teams on the Zode. Triple D has one team after the traverse. Stefan from Austria solo on the Muir. Shield team of 4 topped out late yesterday.

Go for it!

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Sep 14, 2013 - 10:17am PT
Is Tom going to post soon on his site El Cap Report site?


Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Sep 14, 2013 - 10:18am PT
Woohoo! Blasted to pitch three of New Dawn with 11 gallons of water on and food for daaaays. I keep looking down, waiting to be able to see you guys on the bridge! I can feel the Nanook vibes even if I can't see'em!

Someone needs to teach these monkeys to respond to monkey calls, get's lonely up here.

Heyo Hep!!!
Erik Sloan

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2013 - 11:23am PT
El Cap report starts tomorrow! woot! woot!

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Sep 15, 2013 - 09:04am PT
Right on Erik! Can't wait for the next installment. Glad Tom will be back.

Erik Sloan

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
Definitely picking up now.

A local couple set out on the Fear. Pete blasted on Horse Play, Salathe got a couple. Two teams going for Sunkist, Triple Direct got one, Nose is steady. Kevin D is crushin on New Dawn to Tribal solo. Lambone is fixing on the Trip, Zodiac got a few.

Beautiful weather here now. A little warm in the middle of the day but a good breeze and awesome vibe. Live it up!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Sep 15, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
Two teams on Sunkist?
Messages 61 - 74 of total 74 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

Try a free sample topo!

SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews