Photo History of Climbing Footwear circa 1974

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 101 - 120 of total 132 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
jabbas

Trad climber
phx AZ
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
Thanks SammO for a little if ever looked into art of reviving the climbing shoe. Sending of our shoes to be resoled had a certain "dark magic" feeling . Enter 5.10 rubber and we felt like we could make new shoes outta thin air - ha ha . It is way tougher than the little page of ' structions made it out to be. A way cool thread -- Thanks .
Redwood

Gym climber
West Sacramento CA
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
PAs: I still have mine. Could not bear to part with them. I remember all those others, too. At one time, Cortinas were de rigeur at Stony Point. Robbins Boots: I saw a British climber lead Coonyard Pinnacle in Robbins Boots.

Credit: Redwood

TMJesse

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Mar 19, 2013 - 12:27am PT
I went on the cheap side for $19 bucks and bought Directissimas. Sold them to my roommate Phil Bone at the Columbia College Apartments in 1979.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=204602&msg=204785#msg204785
Freecloud

climber
California
Mar 19, 2013 - 01:39am PT
What about Fire's? (fee-rays)? Weren't they around during the same time? Can't remember what I had first.
MGuzzy

Trad climber
Orangevale
Mar 19, 2013 - 02:34am PT
Climbing fashion of the days gone by.. Ah to reminisce. I went back through a few photos looking for shots with EBs and thought to myself.. sh#t I climbed that in EBs! I still remember the day me and a friend bought our first pair of climbing shoes (EBs of course) in a Santa Cruz climbing shop. We went to his parents house and immediately tried them out on their livingroom fireplace! Mom was none to happy.
Credit: MGuzzy
Back in the day wearing what I think are my second pair of EB's and crew socks, I was stylin'. The shorts are Chouinard Stand-up shorts, and my favorite "man in the mountain" t-shirt from the Yosemite gift shop. The harness was fished out of a sale bin at the Berkeley REI, consisting of leg loops from one brand and the swami from another because I couldn't find a ready made one that fit me. I cut the chalk bag in half myself and I added the yellow nylon 'cause I heard it kept your chalk from spilling. I even added fleece to the inside, I wanted the most up-to-date chalk bag technology just like the big boys! I bought the yellow Edelweiss rope through the fine folks at the UCHC. It had a fruity smelling water repellent coating and became know as the banana rope. Its now out to pasture as a rope swing in the backyard for the kids.
Kironn Kid

Trad climber
Mar 19, 2013 - 09:52am PT
No. The Fire's came much later. It was because of Matt Cox, Largo and Bachar that I went with the original EB's. I wore them so tight, that they killed the nail bed on my big toes. Decades later, my large toe-nails still grow out very thick and wavy. Necessitating that I remove them about once a year.. Afet the EB's, I went to the original La Sportva (Purple-yellow model)shoes.

Harness? We learned and climbed in Swami belts. Those were the days...
qigongclimber

climber
Mar 20, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
RDs were around at least as early as 1972 because that's when I climbed the East Buttress of El Cap in them.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Mar 20, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
RDs were around at least as early as 1972

Mid 1960s at least. The Kronhofers in the first photo on this thread were used as state-of-the-art rock climbing shoes in the late 1950s and early 1960s, not merely as approach or scrambling shoes. I remember Kamps climbing in a pair in the Needles then. I had a pair also. But my favorites before RDs were Zillertals (very stiff, for edging), then PAs.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Mar 20, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
From the Archives of Antiquity. Many of us on ST worked at the Hut at one time or another. I worked there from 1958-1963. The Golden Years in Hutology, when Steck was my boss. Someday, when I have nothing else to do, I will scan the entire series.

Credit: guido
1959 Ski Hut Catalog
1959 Ski Hut Catalog
Credit: guido
Credit: guido
1960 Ski Hut Catalog
1960 Ski Hut Catalog
Credit: guido
Credit: guido
1967/68 Ski Hut Catalog
1967/68 Ski Hut Catalog
Credit: guido
Credit: guido
Ski Hut Catalog 1968/69
Ski Hut Catalog 1968/69
Credit: guido
Credit: guido
Ski Hut Catalog 1969/70
Ski Hut Catalog 1969/70
Credit: guido

can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Mar 21, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
When I was first exposed to climbing in 1971, the sexiest things going were high quality mountain boots. As I was coming from an intrepid backpacker culture this was a natural progression of technology. Regardless of what sport I indulge myself in, I always by the best sh#t on the market. So after being tempted in mountain porn mags I was convinced I needed these 5 lbs rigs. Talk about resistance training.

I saved enough on a PFC's wage until I could buy a pair of Super Guides, I was stoked to say the least. But one of their design failings was from a soft toe box and crampon straps that would inevitable crush it. So Galibier came out with the Super Pro, which was basically the Super Guide with a PVC toe cap. After many years of use the toe caps were gone. Nice boots none the less.
Credit: can't say
Credit: can't say

Another shoe that promised good things but didn't live up to RR's was the Vasque Ascender. It had a nice stiff shank;) and tried to be the next blue suede shoe but it never really matched the RRs for standing in slings. It is stiff as heck so standing on edges is about it's main forte. When I first gave them a shake down run I noticed the toe rand wore thru in about 3 pitches of aiding and jugging. The sole sucked for any kind of free climbing, so I had them resoled by the Rubber Room with C4. Unfortunately my life took me in a direction at this time where I didn't need them, so in a way they are still virgin.
Vasque Ascenders w/ C4 resole
Vasque Ascenders w/ C4 resole
Credit: can't say
Credit: can't say
LongAgo

Trad climber
Mar 21, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
I used Kronhofers from 60's through 70's for all face climbing. With the help of Bruce Cooke, I learned to resole with smooth neoprene for super edging. I also added epoxy around the welt to minimize any bending, covered with rubber glue gunk. Really a mess come to think of it, and pretty poor on friction. These shoes were good in Tuolumne IF you mainly edged, but friction on glassy knobs was far from secure. Had to really keep your butt out. On Glacier Point Apron, Ks demanded even finer edging. For my crack climbing phase in Yosemite, I used EBs.

I seem to recall partner Bob Kamp liked Cortinas early on, even with no customized sole. Imagine doing hard 5.10 and 5.11 edging in vibrum soles on those shoes!

By the 80's, we finally moved on to "modern" shoes where, thankfully, edging and friction power were pretty well combined.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Nov 12, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
Bump
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Nov 12, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
I remember Rosholt doing Kloberdanz in Addidas, I also remember falling (sliding) right off of Moby Dick Center in RR's.

I still love Kronhoffers, you can do an alpine approach and climb with the same shoe. I had a larger pair for wearing thick wool socks when doing alpine rock routes in the cooler seasons.
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Nov 12, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
Shounards came out after PA's and even EB's, I think. My buddy bought PA's and I bought Shoenards as our first shoes in 77 or so. Shoenards sucked at anything but mixed aid/easy free.

It's a good thing nobody ever informed Steve Wunsch of that before he freed Supercrack in the Gunks wearing them.

Curt
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Nov 12, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
Yellow and Black???
Yellow and Black???

Those were made by San Marco, Rich.

Curt
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Nov 12, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
There was a climb in Eldo I could only lead in my Shoenards. C'est La Vie edging up that crux dihedral. Ironically they were only needed for one foot and one move, and on the next move (smearing) I wished I could magically change shoes.

I'm sure better climbers have done both moves barefoot.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 12, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
Top roping on a roadcut between Long Lake and Tupper Lake on a drizzly day in the Adirondacks around 1974.

Kris Solem on a road cut in the Ads.
Kris Solem on a road cut in the Ads.
Credit: Julie Lazar

Climbing in Fabianos. Obviously I devolved since I didn't get to Josh 'till '82...

Credit: Ksolem
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Nov 13, 2013 - 12:36am PT
The classic shot on Diamond Dogs. Very nice.

Curt
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 14, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
A few shots of the classic Galibier Model Pierre Allain.









More about Pierre here...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1957536&msg=2426206#msg2426206
fitzgeraldo

climber
Jun 15, 2014 - 01:59am PT

rgold asked "Yellow and Black ???"

these were from "san marco", italy. came out at the beginning of the 80'.
as i remember somehow patrick berhault was involved, wether seeing him climbing in this shoes and/or putting his name on it.
pretty comfortable but the rand didn't hold up well.
bought it in the lacedelli store in cortina.
Messages 101 - 120 of total 132 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews