Photo History of Climbing Footwear circa 1974

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Messages 121 - 140 of total 141 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Nov 12, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
I remember Rosholt doing Kloberdanz in Addidas, I also remember falling (sliding) right off of Moby Dick Center in RR's.

I still love Kronhoffers, you can do an alpine approach and climb with the same shoe. I had a larger pair for wearing thick wool socks when doing alpine rock routes in the cooler seasons.
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Nov 12, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
Shounards came out after PA's and even EB's, I think. My buddy bought PA's and I bought Shoenards as our first shoes in 77 or so. Shoenards sucked at anything but mixed aid/easy free.

It's a good thing nobody ever informed Steve Wunsch of that before he freed Supercrack in the Gunks wearing them.

Curt
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Nov 12, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
Yellow and Black???
Yellow and Black???

Those were made by San Marco, Rich.

Curt
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Nov 12, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
There was a climb in Eldo I could only lead in my Shoenards. C'est La Vie edging up that crux dihedral. Ironically they were only needed for one foot and one move, and on the next move (smearing) I wished I could magically change shoes.

I'm sure better climbers have done both moves barefoot.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Nov 12, 2013 - 04:50pm PT
I think we are all lucky not to have DEERFORMED lower ribs after the "swami only" days!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 12, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
Top roping on a roadcut between Long Lake and Tupper Lake on a drizzly day in the Adirondacks around 1974.

Kris Solem on a road cut in the Ads.
Kris Solem on a road cut in the Ads.
Credit: Julie Lazar

Climbing in Fabianos. Obviously I devolved since I didn't get to Josh 'till '82...

Credit: Ksolem
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Nov 13, 2013 - 12:36am PT
The classic shot on Diamond Dogs. Very nice.

Curt
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 14, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
A few shots of the classic Galibier Model Pierre Allain.









More about Pierre here...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1957536&msg=2426206#msg2426206
fitzgeraldo

climber
Jun 15, 2014 - 01:59am PT

rgold asked "Yellow and Black ???"

these were from "san marco", italy. came out at the beginning of the 80'.
as i remember somehow patrick berhault was involved, wether seeing him climbing in this shoes and/or putting his name on it.
pretty comfortable but the rand didn't hold up well.
bought it in the lacedelli store in cortina.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Sep 30, 2014 - 08:37am PT
RICHARD PONTVERT &#40;Galibier&#41; PA
RICHARD PONTVERT (Galibier) PA
Credit: nutstory
GALIBIER Royal Robbins Yosemite
GALIBIER Royal Robbins Yosemite
Credit: nutstory
GALIBIER René Desmaison Sup' Calcaire
GALIBIER Ren Desmaison Sup' Calcaire
Credit: nutstory
rbolton

Social climber
The home for...
Sep 30, 2014 - 12:38pm PT
Roubidoux style
Roubidoux style
Credit: rbolton
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Oct 2, 2014 - 02:22am PT
RICHARD PONTVERT &#40;Galibier&#41; RD
RICHARD PONTVERT (Galibier) RD
Credit: nutstory
storer

Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
Oct 2, 2014 - 12:21pm PT
Happy to see that Zillertals get mentioned. Available from Ski Hut as mentioned. The seam on the forefoot blew out almost immediately as you'd expect. Then holes would develop at the big toes which would then stick out unceremoniously. These shoes made the apron a worthy climbing destination.

Below is a picture of Jack Rankin (the guy who taught Harding to climb) from Sacramento wearing Zillertals while practicing a dynamic hip belay down on the Sacramento river bottoms, probably 1961. Of course, in those days, "the leader must not fall."

Credit: storer
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Oct 2, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
Happy to see that Zillertals get mentioned. Available from Ski Hut as mentioned. The seam on the forefoot blew out almost immediately as you'd expect. Then holes would develop at the big toes which would then stick out unceremoniously

I reinforced the toe on mine with a scrap of fiberglass cloth and some resin. It worked pretty well.

Can't remember who came up with that idea. It wasn't original.
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Oct 2, 2014 - 01:11pm PT
probably 1961. Of course, in those days, "the leader must not fall."

This is a joke, right?

Those shoes seem to have a rubber rand (or is it mud?), so maybe not Zillertals? I smeared epoxy glue on the toe area of mine to counteract the abrasion.

Fort Mountain, Georgia, 1954
Fort Mountain, Georgia, 1954
Credit: jgill

Georgia, 1954. JC Higgins work boots with attached lug rubber soles. Hemp rope. Match that, youngsters!

Sylvan Lake,  early 1960s
Sylvan Lake, early 1960s
Credit: jgill

Zillertals early 1960s

Blacktail Butte  ca1959
Blacktail Butte ca1959
Credit: jgill

PAs ca1959. Excellent shoes, but no sticky rubber.
storer

Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
Oct 2, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
Yes, moisture/mud from tramping around on the Sacramento river bottom during belay practice.

Jack had a funky car, with a 2-stroke engine, help me here, please, with make those who may know. Maybe a Panhard? He attached a washing machine agitator (the central agitating tower) to a rear drive wheel. A couple of loops around it with a Columbia white nylon rope attached to a 200 lb concrete block lifted it up into a huge cottonwood. A manila rope served as the belay line which had been given the requested slack. when it dropped smoke would emanate from the leather butt patch. Jack here has buffered his patch with his leather jacket in an attempt to lessen the heat load on his posterior. Harding joined in the fun a few times too.

As I recall the Sierra Club RCS manual from that era contained the credo "the leader must not fall". After requesting 20 feet of slack we young initiates would take that to heart.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Oct 2, 2014 - 07:57pm PT
RD's were nice because you didn't have to stitch added leather to the tops
to keep them from wearing out like we did with EB's.
If I remember correctly they edged purty good.
Wish I still had my old pair, resole with C4 of course.
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Oct 2, 2014 - 08:31pm PT
Shoenards sucked at anything but mixed aid/easy free.
They were uncanny for standing on dime edges.
Sadly, I traded mine for some Redken bars of soap, and shampoo.
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Oct 2, 2014 - 10:03pm PT
As I recall the Sierra Club RCS manual from that era contained the credo "the leader must not fall".

Interesting. Geoffrey Winthrop Young may have made this comment - its first appearance in print - in one of his books about 1920, Mountain Craft possibly. I wouldn't have thought it would survive into the 1960s in California. In the early 1960s Dave Rearick told me his approach to rock climbing almost necessitated a fall, that if you didn't fall you had not reached your limits as a climber. And Royal Robbins entitled a book Fail Falling. But the SC may have been still living in a bygone era.

nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Oct 20, 2014 - 04:27am PT
GALIBIER Lionel Terray Saussois
GALIBIER Lionel Terray Saussois
Credit: nutstory
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