Photo History of Climbing Footwear circa 1974

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 81 - 100 of total 127 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
jabbas

Trad climber
phx AZ
Mar 8, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
You guys are Hardcore . My Troll Whillans was "da bomb" . 2 inch swamis sucked ( my guts payed the price; as well as any surviving ribs. This thread is morphing into "somethun outta control".
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Mar 8, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
Before I got a swami belt it was a bowline on a coil,
Who here done that?

On goldline. Not at all pretty after a fall!
jabbas

Trad climber
phx AZ
Mar 8, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
Yes Randisi, I remember climber artwork on their EB's. You are right and I do wish I would have captured some of that with my camera. This might just become unto itself as a subject of historic import. Who knows !!
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Mar 8, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
One thing that's been forgotten is that people used to personalize their EBs by drawing on them with felt tip markers.

I used to personalize my body that way too.

Oh, wait, I'm confusing "felt tip marker" with the whole thread-wrapped-needle tattoo bit.
lars johansen

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Mar 8, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
Here's a shot of the East Butt of Middle with Whillan's harness and chinese boots from army surplus. They were about as secure as climbing with hockey pucks on your feet. Vintage mid to late 70's. lj
Credit: lars johansen

TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Mar 8, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
Before I got a swami belt it was a bowline on a coil,
Who here done that?
Tad

Slowly raises his hand.


With goldline too.



Gilroy

Social climber
Bolderado
Mar 8, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
Bowline on a coil gave rise to the folkore about the fellow who fell at the Gunks and his bowline came untied (as they are wont to do, eh) and he spun off the rope like a top. Story went he augered into the ground so far...that all his buddies bought ball-busting Whillans.

The guy that taught me to tie into a rope climbed in these.

Credit: Gilroy

John Harlin II taught him to climb while he was at a rich kid school in Leysin. I learned in my hiking boots to 'hang a lug' on a crystal whilst slab climbing in Texas. Soon be the blue suede shoes. Not that they helped with the slabs but, boy, were they stylin.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Mar 8, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
This thread is morphing into "somethun outta control".

The Cortina on the bottom of the shoe pile looks like it has some epoxy on it. We used to shore up the leather with epoxy to keep them from wearing out. Seems like I may have done that to Kronnies to.
jabbas

Trad climber
phx AZ
Mar 8, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
That shoe looks like he should have been pacing laps at the local high school. Incredible what you climbed in ; if you laced a pair of those on , I commend you.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Mar 8, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
I remember those Adidas leather 'dress' track shoes. I never had any but I sure remember them.

The Corinas were not bad at all. Like any shoe - you wore them tight. The ones in the pick look a bit beat. When they were new, you edged. When they wore down you smeared. They were good training for what came next. It was never really about the shoes. I skipped the whole EB phase with Robbins boots and then started using PAs and RDs and on and on! Kamps did amazing things with Cortinas. Can't remember Shoenards - never had any - may have tried then on but maybe they didn't have them in Idaho at the time.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 8, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
Almost ninety posts and no love for the Fabiano Black Beauty!?!

Pure unbridled stiffness.

When I had a chance to climb with Fritz Wiessner back in high school he was wearing a pair along with an Edelrid woven rope chest harness craging around Tucson! Or were those Hanwags...
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Mar 8, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
Shounards came out after PA's and even EB's, I think. My buddy bought PA's and I bought Shoenards as our first shoes in 77 or so. Shoenards sucked at anything but mixed aid/easy free.

It seemed like forever at the time, but when Fire's came out, they had several years where they were THE shoe.

I found an old titanium ice screw when scrounging around today. BITD, the eastern block climbers were behind the Iron Curtain. I guess there was a good black market, because some of them were making ice screws out of titanium. The workmanship is top notch, done on a lathe, and the thing weighs about two ounces. I traded for it in Europe and hung onto it. When they got permission to go climbing, they would bring this kind of stuff over and trade for money because they had little money.

It really is amazing quality. You could tell that somebody knew what they were making, and the spirals are precision cut on a lathe.
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Mar 9, 2013 - 03:27am PT
Shoeinards appeared in the UK in 77, they worked well on the FAs of some of our crimpy/edgy sandstone routes. Some of which still get high numbers....

In fact a lot of the outcrop routes here, done in EBs and the like, still get high numbers and aren't done that often.

They require a good head, more than good feet I guess ;-)

Steve
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Mar 9, 2013 - 11:45am PT
What about Black Beauty's?

Like the blue RR's only stiffer, blacker and more beautiful!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Mar 9, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
stylin the new EBs!!!!!!
stylin the new EBs!!!!!!
Credit: Ron Anderson

Painters pants dayz....^^


Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Mar 9, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
What a great thread! Sorry I wasn't around earlier to contribute this October 1972 Galibier Ad from Off Belay Magazine.

Credit: Fritz
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Mar 9, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
EB's with customized leather upper



EB's in action



New RR's

carlos gallego

Ice climber
Spain
Mar 10, 2013 - 04:45am PT
... years before than I discovered the "Paragot and EB"... I used the "supercalcarea" boots... rigid and paintful...

Credit: carlos gallego
richross

Trad climber
Mar 15, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
More EB's!

Credit: richross

Credit: richross
jabbas

Trad climber
phx AZ
Mar 15, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
For some reason EB's still look so , so cool! Must be the blue and natural white . Love and Rockets !!!
Messages 81 - 100 of total 127 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews