New bolted 5.13b route on Castleton Tower.

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Messages 141 - 160 of total 212 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 26, 2012 - 12:47am PT
If I was with that BABE it would be a hard 8+

Adopted the metric system, did ya?
locker

Social climber
Oct 26, 2012 - 12:58am PT


I've always wondered why the Xtra small Trojans were too big...

;-/
Brad Barlage

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
I have been on the route and it is far from a "bolt ladder".

Sam has put up a lot of routes, and he did Ivory Tower right: safely bolted where there's no gear,and more space between hardware where the climbing is secure. Sam put a lot of hardwork and soul into the route.

If you've ever climbed in the desert, you've very likely clipped one of Sam's anchors. The entire community benefits from Sam's anchor replacement work and climbing preservation efforts.

Thanks for the new route, Sam. Congrats on the FFA to Sam and Chris Kalous...really inspiring to me.
The Alpine

climber
Oct 27, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
Blah blah blah.

I can understand the no bolt sentiment, but so what. Seems like a bad ass line that does not impede on the other routes.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 27, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
I wonder how many climbers that oppose a route like this are capable of climbing it....?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 27, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
I wonder how many climbers that oppose a route like this are capable of climbing it....?


I wonder how long we're all going to harp on it. Both the pro and anti view are about as boring and hashed out as the other.

Although, we could get some good ol' choppin' threats, physical confrontation, as well as the inevitable conclusion of nothing actually happens.
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
Oct 27, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
Cannot wait to get on this route.
Ben909

Trad climber
toronto
Oct 28, 2012 - 09:39am PT
Great post Sam and inspiring route. Looking forward to seeing it with my own eyes in a week or two (from a neighbouring route!).

Fluoride, the anti-bolt dogma that you cling to makes no sense when compared with the existing routes on Castleton (bolted pitch just left of the north chimney) and it is obvious that you just don't understand when you suggest Belly Full of Bad Berries as a 5.13 route that gets little traffic. No sh#t, it is a feet first puke fest! Then you suggest that Mill Creek is all sport which begs the question have you ever been there?
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
overchalking on Grant's Crack
Oct 28, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
Sounds like a great line. Nice job kids.

If anyone can be accused of thoughtless bolt placement, it isn't Sam. I bet he did a damn good job. Certainly he's been given a lot to think about in years and years of fixing other people's worn-out hardware and botch jobs.

"Bunch of Californians arguing against locals about desert ethics based on their trips to IC and the North Chimney. STFU." Ha! +1 for that.

Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
Oct 28, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
Didn't read all the posts but I thought there already was a sport pitch on Castleton. Isn't there a sport line variation for the last pitch of the North Face? Thought it was a 5.12 or something.

Not saying that there should be more or anything, guess its not for me to say...
Scott Bennett

Trad climber
Superior, Colorado
Nov 2, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
I'm late to the conversation, been out in the desert for a while.

I'm just writing to address the folks who complained that "only a small handful of people will ever be able to do" this route, and so it shouldn't be bolted.

The routes been up for less than two weeks, and has already seen three more attempts and one more redpoint (that I know of). I'm sure more attempts, and more sends, will go down in the next few weeks; the weather is perfect!

I can also vouch for the amazing quality of the rock and the moves. And of course the position is out-of-this-world!

Huge thanks to Sam for crafting this gem, and thanks to Chris for being badass!
Joe just barely missing the onsight of the crux pitch
Joe just barely missing the onsight of the crux pitch
Credit: Scott Bennett
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 2, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
^^^ That's what bolts are for... ^^^
Epic E

Big Wall climber
CA
Nov 2, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
"Bunch of Californians arguing against locals about desert ethics based on their trips to IC and the North Chimney. STFU." Ha! +1 for that.

Its funny how a route in Utah could be a problem in California. You guys are the shit! keep on sending out there and we'll keep arguing over here, makes me wish I was still living over that way. I definitely know some folks from CO that will be heading over to send it too.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
overchalking on Grant's Crack
Nov 2, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
Maybe some Californian complainers should go take the West Face apart, I bet no one's been on it since the arete got climbed. And that Arrowhead atrocity...who climbs that anymore?
Epic E

Big Wall climber
CA
Nov 2, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
Its really unbelievable how many shitty climbers there are in California that complain about everything. If your looking for shitty climbing partners with good ethics come on out to California.
Jimmy Russells

climber
Nov 2, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
More to the point, Dan Osman bolted a line on the tower a few years before he died

More to the point, he put a few bolts into a roof next to some cool dino tracks and never finished it. Dano was an amazing, wonderful human being but those bolts are 10x worse than the new arete bolts. They don't go anywhere and I bet no one's even used them since the FA. Prime example that establishing routes "from the ground up" is sometimes not a good idea. Funny how you never hear about these bolts from "concerned citizens" like Flouride and Donini.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 3, 2012 - 12:03am PT
A Califronia Complainer? Is that like a New York Nick?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 3, 2012 - 12:57am PT
Tokyo Tea....
md307

climber
jackson, wy
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
Wow, what a lot of hate. I have been on the route; it’s hard, aesthetic and proud. If you weren’t looking for it you wouldn’t be able to find it. My guess is that anyone that gets on it (and gets to the top!) will be psyched. If you are really going to discuss the value and appropriateness of a climb on Castleton then you should move one climb to the left. I believe it’s the “arrow route” and THAT IS a tasteless bolt ladder. It may have been done ground up but who cares? In my opinion that route was stolen from the future, with half as many bolts in different placements my guess is that the “arrow route” would go free as a spectacular face climb. Well done Sam.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Nov 14, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
I agree with Gilwad. We won't complain if you put up some more routes in the Ghost. There was a lot of controversy around here when people started putting up long sport routes near Canmore. This died down after a bit and they became accepted.
I wish I could climb 5.13
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