Sam Lightner, Jr
Social climber
WY
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Oct 25, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
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Some clarification for all of you.
First, Chris botled nothing. He redpointed the crux pitch... I bolted it.
Most of the bolts were place on rappel, but not all. If you place a bolt, place a good bolt... but try not to place a bolt. That is my philosophy.
The bolt every 7 feet thing is inaccurate... that may be the math, but I think you will find it a bit more spacious than that.
This is not the first bolted route on the tower. Obviously the older classics have them in certain places, like the two next to the crack on K.I. More to the point, Dan Osman bolted a line on the tower a few years before he died, and Jays route on the North Face is bolted. Nearby, Excommunication, but also Holier than Thou on the Nun, and the usual finish for people on Fine Jade. Twenty five feet left of this arete is a bolt ladder, the Arrow Route, with more bolts than this line. That is the only route you can see all the bolts in the crux from. Someone should take Huntely Ingals, Harvey Carter, and Layton Kor to take for bolts too, if thats what you have a problem with. None of the crack moves on this thing are bolted, just so you know. There is no reason for that. You do need to crack climb to do this route.
Those of you who said kudos, thank you. Its a really cool line. Those who ripped on me, whatever. Enjoy yourselves. Please don't climb this route, which by the way is the only one on the tower with bolts that are painted to match the rock, if you do not like that it was put up. Specifically, Jim, your pretense of purity gets old.
edit... this is probably the last I will have to say on st for a while. enjoy.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 25, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
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Good job on a route I'll never venture to Sam.
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Epic E
Big Wall climber
CA
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Oct 25, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
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I heard this chick already got the second accent. The word is she thinks its a soft 13b.
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skywalker
climber
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Oct 25, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
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I'm with Jeremy!
Is that real???
Yikes!
S....
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locker
Gym climber
DUH!!!...
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Oct 25, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
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"The word is she thinks its a soft 13b."...
If I was with that BABE it would be a hard 8+...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 25, 2012 - 09:47pm PT
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If I was with that BABE it would be a hard 8+
Adopted the metric system, did ya?
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locker
Social climber
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Oct 25, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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I've always wondered why the Xtra small Trojans were too big...
;-/
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Brad Barlage
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Oct 26, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
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I have been on the route and it is far from a "bolt ladder".
Sam has put up a lot of routes, and he did Ivory Tower right: safely bolted where there's no gear,and more space between hardware where the climbing is secure. Sam put a lot of hardwork and soul into the route.
If you've ever climbed in the desert, you've very likely clipped one of Sam's anchors. The entire community benefits from Sam's anchor replacement work and climbing preservation efforts.
Thanks for the new route, Sam. Congrats on the FFA to Sam and Chris Kalous...really inspiring to me.
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The Alpine
climber
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Oct 27, 2012 - 10:53am PT
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Blah blah blah.
I can understand the no bolt sentiment, but so what. Seems like a bad ass line that does not impede on the other routes.
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Oct 27, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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I wonder how many climbers that oppose a route like this are capable of climbing it....?
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Jebus H Bomz
climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
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Oct 27, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
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I wonder how many climbers that oppose a route like this are capable of climbing it....?
I wonder how long we're all going to harp on it. Both the pro and anti view are about as boring and hashed out as the other.
Although, we could get some good ol' choppin' threats, physical confrontation, as well as the inevitable conclusion of nothing actually happens.
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Hankster
Social climber
Golden, CO
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Oct 27, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
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Cannot wait to get on this route.
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Ben909
Trad climber
toronto
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Oct 28, 2012 - 06:39am PT
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Great post Sam and inspiring route. Looking forward to seeing it with my own eyes in a week or two (from a neighbouring route!).
Fluoride, the anti-bolt dogma that you cling to makes no sense when compared with the existing routes on Castleton (bolted pitch just left of the north chimney) and it is obvious that you just don't understand when you suggest Belly Full of Bad Berries as a 5.13 route that gets little traffic. No sh#t, it is a feet first puke fest! Then you suggest that Mill Creek is all sport which begs the question have you ever been there?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
overchalking on Grant's Crack
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Oct 28, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
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Sounds like a great line. Nice job kids.
If anyone can be accused of thoughtless bolt placement, it isn't Sam. I bet he did a damn good job. Certainly he's been given a lot to think about in years and years of fixing other people's worn-out hardware and botch jobs.
"Bunch of Californians arguing against locals about desert ethics based on their trips to IC and the North Chimney. STFU." Ha! +1 for that.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Oct 28, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
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Didn't read all the posts but I thought there already was a sport pitch on Castleton. Isn't there a sport line variation for the last pitch of the North Face? Thought it was a 5.12 or something.
Not saying that there should be more or anything, guess its not for me to say...
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Scott Bennett
Trad climber
Superior, Colorado
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I'm late to the conversation, been out in the desert for a while.
I'm just writing to address the folks who complained that "only a small handful of people will ever be able to do" this route, and so it shouldn't be bolted.
The routes been up for less than two weeks, and has already seen three more attempts and one more redpoint (that I know of). I'm sure more attempts, and more sends, will go down in the next few weeks; the weather is perfect!
I can also vouch for the amazing quality of the rock and the moves. And of course the position is out-of-this-world!
Huge thanks to Sam for crafting this gem, and thanks to Chris for being badass!
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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^^^ That's what bolts are for... ^^^
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Epic E
Big Wall climber
CA
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"Bunch of Californians arguing against locals about desert ethics based on their trips to IC and the North Chimney. STFU." Ha! +1 for that.
Its funny how a route in Utah could be a problem in California. You guys are the shit! keep on sending out there and we'll keep arguing over here, makes me wish I was still living over that way. I definitely know some folks from CO that will be heading over to send it too.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
overchalking on Grant's Crack
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Maybe some Californian complainers should go take the West Face apart, I bet no one's been on it since the arete got climbed. And that Arrowhead atrocity...who climbs that anymore?
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Epic E
Big Wall climber
CA
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Its really unbelievable how many shitty climbers there are in California that complain about everything. If your looking for shitty climbing partners with good ethics come on out to California.
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