New bolted 5.13b route on Castleton Tower.


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Gym climber
overchalking on Grant's Crack
Nov 2, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
Maybe some Californian complainers should go take the West Face apart, I bet no one's been on it since the arete got climbed. And that Arrowhead atrocity...who climbs that anymore?
Epic E

Big Wall climber
Nov 2, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
Its really unbelievable how many shitty climbers there are in California that complain about everything. If your looking for shitty climbing partners with good ethics come on out to California.
Jimmy Russells

Nov 2, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
More to the point, Dan Osman bolted a line on the tower a few years before he died

More to the point, he put a few bolts into a roof next to some cool dino tracks and never finished it. Dano was an amazing, wonderful human being but those bolts are 10x worse than the new arete bolts. They don't go anywhere and I bet no one's even used them since the FA. Prime example that establishing routes "from the ground up" is sometimes not a good idea. Funny how you never hear about these bolts from "concerned citizens" like Flouride and Donini.

Social climber
Nov 3, 2012 - 12:03am PT
A Califronia Complainer? Is that like a New York Nick?

Social climber
Nov 3, 2012 - 12:57am PT
Tokyo Tea....

jackson, wy
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
Wow, what a lot of hate. I have been on the route; it’s hard, aesthetic and proud. If you weren’t looking for it you wouldn’t be able to find it. My guess is that anyone that gets on it (and gets to the top!) will be psyched. If you are really going to discuss the value and appropriateness of a climb on Castleton then you should move one climb to the left. I believe it’s the “arrow route” and THAT IS a tasteless bolt ladder. It may have been done ground up but who cares? In my opinion that route was stolen from the future, with half as many bolts in different placements my guess is that the “arrow route” would go free as a spectacular face climb. Well done Sam.

Trad climber
Nov 14, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
I agree with Gilwad. We won't complain if you put up some more routes in the Ghost. There was a lot of controversy around here when people started putting up long sport routes near Canmore. This died down after a bit and they became accepted.
I wish I could climb 5.13
howie doin'

Big Pine, CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
Castleton Tower is a sacred stone for climbers. I hope this new line proves to be proud and deserving of respect in our greater community. I hope it provides for an enjoyable and aesthetic climbing experience for those who can send at that grade. Anything less is a desecration. Style of ascent matters less in this case, if it meets the above criteria.

The bigger issue of concern here is the apparent lack of consensus amongst prominent Moab area climbers before action was taken on an iconic desert tower. Who knows what kind of disrespect could be done in the future?

Trad climber
Gunnison, Co
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
Personally I'm super stoked about this route. I think it took some real vision to find this line.
I don't understand all the complaints.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:38pm PT

I have nothing but respect for Chris, don't really know Sam.

But I have climbed with the Colofornian whiners too.

I'm with the "haters gonna hate" school.

The only way I see to calm people down about this route is to go ahead with a bottom to top bolt ladder on the Nuns for BASE jumpers called Force Of Habit,..
Bill Grasse

Durango, CO.
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
I think that this thing looks sick! Nice job Sam! I don't understand all the hatin.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
How about Farce of Habit?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
Nah, that would have to be with a hand drill.
Epic E

Big Wall climber
Nov 14, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
"apparent lack of consensus amongst prominent Moab area climbers"

More Californian complaining will get everybody over in the moab area together for a consensus for sure next time.


Sport climber
Nov 14, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
Did you guys hear? Someone found the G-spot!
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Nov 14, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
Someone found the G-spot!
I didn't know it got lost

The Desert Oven
Nov 14, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
I have not seen it in person, and probably could not make it up the thing if I was there. HOWEVER, it looks pretty bad ass from the topo and description. Good on the FA party for having the vision to develop an (apparently) awesome route.

Big Wall climber
Durango, CO
Nov 15, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
I remember when I heard about a 10-pitch 5.11 sport route in Zion. I was blown away. In a land of splitter cracks and splitter routes, I enjoyed plugging gear and cranking jams. Just listening about it made me cringe. 10 pitches, all those damn bolts!!! Made me sick. It took a while but what the...I climbed it. Wow...what a route. Superb. All the right bolts, spaced out for some spice, a wonderful route by some insightful climbers. So...
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Nov 15, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
I'll never climb it. But wow, that thing looks RAD. Good job you guys!

There is nothing like a rad arete route....double exposure!

Oh, by the way.........I know all about the G spot.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Nov 15, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
Articles like the one posted in the OP are why I stopped reading Climbing years ago. Who the fuh-ch cares about some 5.13 sh#t.

Way more fun here talkin about twinkies and sheat.
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