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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
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If superhero climbers that can climb 13+ actually go out and enjoy this route, I see no problem with it. if the route languishes into obscurity, it seems the bolting could be viewed as unnecessary since only a few extract enjoyment from the route.
The same should apply to "museum climbs" that were sketched up by some dude on acid back in the 70's and haven't been touched since. If the standard is maximum enjoyment for those who would use that chunk of rock, why limit access to all those otherwise fun 5.8's by insisting that the original 40+ foot runouts be maintained?
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 25, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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So following that logic, an obscure bolted sport route that is rarely climbed should be chopped? Who thinks routes are put up solely for noobs enjoyment? I happen to like runout slabs.
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BrentA
Gym climber
Roca Rojo
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Jan 25, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
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This thread really mystifies me.
Two life-long established climbers, whom are known to live way on the good side of the style curve, establish a stellar looking arete climb on a classic tower.
What is the point of the story here? You aren't allowed to put new bolts on old towers?
I genuinely don't understand the counter-argument to this route.
This thread has more hate than the Fisher Towers slack line thread.
Climbings crazy.
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rapchopper
Trad climber
moab, utah
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Jan 27, 2013 - 06:56am PT
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When you have a reputation as a rap bolter you are not looked at as an established climber but more of a rich prick that has no concern for desert climbing ethics.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 27, 2013 - 07:25am PT
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When you are too chickenshit to use your real name when you spray negative sh#t about other climbers you come off as a complete and totall as#@&%e.
Nick Goldsmith
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rapchopper
Trad climber
moab, utah
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Jan 27, 2013 - 11:24am PT
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I am a total as#@&%e who plays by the original ethics of desert climbing... I witness the best quality climbs being established from the ground up by the hardest climbers on the planet. If you dont want to run into as#@&%es like me i would suggest areas that have different climbing ethics. Its like climbing in the Czech Repub. with cams..... So i ask who is really the as#@&%e?
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 27, 2013 - 11:32am PT
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Meh. If you can't stand behind your words you are a coward not an azzhole.
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rapchopper
Trad climber
moab, utah
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Jan 28, 2013 - 07:42am PT
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Hey Larry, hope your dog shits in your truck again....
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 29, 2013 - 10:39am PT
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Our rules are pretty damn stupid sometimes. not only are the rulzs stupid but they are highly situational depending on who you are. Folks with the right street creds get a free pass while no names or less populer/out of towners get crucified.
According to the rulze it is completly aceptable to establish an aid line ground up with all kinds of trenching, chiseling, drilling, chipping and hammering yet a free climber who chips a single hold is crucified and god forbid someone established a hard free climb that atually makes sense and has the clips in the right places. I have done my share of GU bolting and sometimes it works out great but other times you end up with a sh#t show that could have been avoided with some pre inspection and planning. It sounds like Dannos incomplete line of ground up bolts on Castelton could have been avoided with a bit of pre inspection?
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rapchopper
Trad climber
moab, utah
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Jan 30, 2013 - 05:52am PT
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Tradman, boy you really got it figured out.....Lay off the crack pipe!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:44am PT
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Don't smoke, do drugs or drink. Guess that violates a few of your rules as well....
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Jan 30, 2013 - 07:03am PT
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I think you've got a good point tradman.
I've noticed the same thing.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 30, 2013 - 09:12am PT
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I am a total as#@&%e who plays by the original ethics of desert climbing
No, you're a 14 year old kid from sheboygan.
Because you see, you cannot claim anything about the strength of your character when you remain anonymous online. You may have many valid opinions and points, but you are an anonymous person so I get to assume your identity.
Go have your mom make you a hot pocket, like the good little virgin teenager you are. One day you can bring a name or a face to your cred, but until then you have to sit at the kids table.
Greg
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pelut espania
Big Wall climber
Espania
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Jan 30, 2013 - 11:04am PT
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You american dogs have no site or the balls with all these bolts! Little peepee and big bolts for the american dogs! WOOF!! LOL!
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 30, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
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Is Pelut the Mexican/Spanish version of Werner?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 30, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
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Pelut is pissed because he got busted for cheating his way up stuff in the Fishers.
Big Spaniard, little ballz, or something like that.
But his mama was plenty friendly.....
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 30, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
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+100 for tradman.
-10^5 for rapchuffer.
I've always been appalled by the damage aid climbers do, especially in soft sandstone, and especially when they whine about bolts on sport climbs.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Jan 30, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
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the californicated tradiban need to get over themselves. Your ethics are in your own head, and have nothing to do with the reality of modern rock climbing.
Besides, the chalk and shiney chains on the IC traderoutes with waiting lines are way more of a visual and environmental impact than bolts on a 13 you will never be fit enough to do.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 30, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
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Pelut is pissed because he got busted for cheating his way up stuff in the Fishers.
Big Spaniard, little ballz, or something like that.
Actually he's a troll. Not the real Pelut.
This is the real Pelut. un de tants
http://www.supertopo.com/inc/view_forum.php?dcid=Ozo1PDc3JyYl
Hey rapbolter, make sure you climb the route before you chop. Otherwise you're a hypocrite!!
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 30, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
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Hey rapbolter, tell what is your motivation to spent time chopping and rappelling instead of climbing?
Is puling the bolts give to you physical pleasure?
Are you proud that you chopped specific routes you can spray about? ( do you use your real name for spray?)
Anything else I missed?
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