New bolted 5.13b route on Castleton Tower.

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 161 - 180 of total 217 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 3, 2012 - 12:03am PT
A Califronia Complainer? Is that like a New York Nick?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 3, 2012 - 12:57am PT
Tokyo Tea....
md307

climber
jackson, wy
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
Wow, what a lot of hate. I have been on the route; it’s hard, aesthetic and proud. If you weren’t looking for it you wouldn’t be able to find it. My guess is that anyone that gets on it (and gets to the top!) will be psyched. If you are really going to discuss the value and appropriateness of a climb on Castleton then you should move one climb to the left. I believe it’s the “arrow route” and THAT IS a tasteless bolt ladder. It may have been done ground up but who cares? In my opinion that route was stolen from the future, with half as many bolts in different placements my guess is that the “arrow route” would go free as a spectacular face climb. Well done Sam.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Nov 14, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
I agree with Gilwad. We won't complain if you put up some more routes in the Ghost. There was a lot of controversy around here when people started putting up long sport routes near Canmore. This died down after a bit and they became accepted.
I wish I could climb 5.13
howie doin'

climber
Big Pine, CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
Castleton Tower is a sacred stone for climbers. I hope this new line proves to be proud and deserving of respect in our greater community. I hope it provides for an enjoyable and aesthetic climbing experience for those who can send at that grade. Anything less is a desecration. Style of ascent matters less in this case, if it meets the above criteria.

The bigger issue of concern here is the apparent lack of consensus amongst prominent Moab area climbers before action was taken on an iconic desert tower. Who knows what kind of disrespect could be done in the future?
benkiessel

Trad climber
Gunnison, Co
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
Personally I'm super stoked about this route. I think it took some real vision to find this line.
I don't understand all the complaints.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
Hmmmm.

I have nothing but respect for Chris, don't really know Sam.

But I have climbed with the Colofornian whiners too.




I'm with the "haters gonna hate" school.

The only way I see to calm people down about this route is to go ahead with a bottom to top bolt ladder on the Nuns for BASE jumpers called Force Of Habit,..
Bill Grasse

climber
Durango, CO.
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
I think that this thing looks sick! Nice job Sam! I don't understand all the hatin.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
How about Farce of Habit?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
Nah, that would have to be with a hand drill.
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:49pm PT
Looks like a bitchin route.

My $0.02.

JA
Epic E

Big Wall climber
CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
"apparent lack of consensus amongst prominent Moab area climbers"

More Californian complaining will get everybody over in the moab area together for a consensus for sure next time.

michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Nov 14, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
Did you guys hear? Someone found the G-spot!
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Nov 14, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
Someone found the G-spot!
I didn't know it got lost
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
Nov 14, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
This route sounds boss, cannot wait to climb it! And a great idea Ron!

ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
Nov 14, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
I have not seen it in person, and probably could not make it up the thing if I was there. HOWEVER, it looks pretty bad ass from the topo and description. Good on the FA party for having the vision to develop an (apparently) awesome route.
Farky

Big Wall climber
Durango, CO
Nov 15, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
I remember when I heard about a 10-pitch 5.11 sport route in Zion. I was blown away. In a land of splitter cracks and splitter routes, I enjoyed plugging gear and cranking jams. Just listening about it made me cringe. 10 pitches, all those damn bolts!!! Made me sick. It took a while but what the...I climbed it. Wow...what a route. Superb. All the right bolts, spaced out for some spice, a wonderful route by some insightful climbers. So...
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Nov 15, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
I'll never climb it. But wow, that thing looks RAD. Good job you guys!

There is nothing like a rad arete route....double exposure!



Oh, by the way.........I know all about the G spot.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Nov 15, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
Articles like the one posted in the OP are why I stopped reading Climbing years ago. Who the fuh-ch cares about some 5.13 sh#t.

Way more fun here talkin about twinkies and sheat.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 15, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
Who the fuh-ch cares about some 5.13 sh#t.


You know like a fifth of the world watched the olympics, right?
Messages 161 - 180 of total 217 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews