New bolted 5.13b route on Castleton Tower.


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Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
Nah, that would have to be with a hand drill.
Epic E

Big Wall climber
Nov 14, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
"apparent lack of consensus amongst prominent Moab area climbers"

More Californian complaining will get everybody over in the moab area together for a consensus for sure next time.


Sport climber
Nov 14, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
Did you guys hear? Someone found the G-spot!
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Nov 14, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
Someone found the G-spot!
I didn't know it got lost

The Desert Oven
Nov 14, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
I have not seen it in person, and probably could not make it up the thing if I was there. HOWEVER, it looks pretty bad ass from the topo and description. Good on the FA party for having the vision to develop an (apparently) awesome route.

Big Wall climber
Durango, CO
Nov 15, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
I remember when I heard about a 10-pitch 5.11 sport route in Zion. I was blown away. In a land of splitter cracks and splitter routes, I enjoyed plugging gear and cranking jams. Just listening about it made me cringe. 10 pitches, all those damn bolts!!! Made me sick. It took a while but what the...I climbed it. Wow...what a route. Superb. All the right bolts, spaced out for some spice, a wonderful route by some insightful climbers. So...
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Nov 15, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
I'll never climb it. But wow, that thing looks RAD. Good job you guys!

There is nothing like a rad arete route....double exposure!

Oh, by the way.........I know all about the G spot.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Nov 15, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
Articles like the one posted in the OP are why I stopped reading Climbing years ago. Who the fuh-ch cares about some 5.13 sh#t.

Way more fun here talkin about twinkies and sheat.

Social climber
Nov 15, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
Who the fuh-ch cares about some 5.13 sh#t.

You know like a fifth of the world watched the olympics, right?

Trad climber
Nov 16, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
I'm late to this thread but wow, what a bunch of lame arguments against this route. It looks badass.


I posted the text below in an appreciation thread about Sam a while back but I think I'll repost it here after reading so much negative bullsh#t.

Sam had just climbed his 100th desert tower when I posted this...

"Just climbing 100 towers in the desert is impressive but what really struck me were the stats that went along with those towers...

29 were done solo
69 had anchor replacement or required new anchors
20 via a new route
12 were first ascents of the tower

I'm posting this because he would consider it bad form to spray about his contributions online.


Out of 100 towers he has taken the time to install solid anchors on 69 of them. That's freaking awesome! Having been there for a few of those towers I can attest that replacing old angles and faded slings with half inch bolts and beefy chain does not make for a light pack! In fact, we weighed his solo haulbag the last time I was in Moab and it came in at 77lbs.

He has also
1. Funded the anchor replacement work he has done.

2. Served on the board of the Access Fund for 6 years.

3. Put up hundreds of routes from Utah to Thailand that have been enjoyed by thousands of climbers from all over the world.

4. Written 7 books including the guidebook for Thailand, All Elevations Unknown (about a wild expedition to a giant spire in the heart of Borneo that had never been explored by climbers), Exotic Rock (which covers Japan, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, Morocco, Greece, Norway, and South Africa), and the Roads Through Time series. (The Moab - Roads Through Time book is particularly interesting if you spend much time in the area)

5. Served 3 years as the President of the Moab Area Climbers Alliance, who's goal is to restore/improve the relationship between climbers and the NPS units in the Moab area."

Not covered above is the fact that Sam has been involved with Friends of Indian Creek for years and is currently the President.

In short, Sam has done a LOT for our climbing community (including putting up an amazing arÍte route on Castleton) and all of you haters should calm down, get some perspective, and go climb something!

Brad Brandewie

Sport climber
Nov 16, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
But being whiney about someone putting those god forbidden bolts on ultra classic crags is cooler than actually climbing.

"I don't always climb, but when I do, I make sure it's 5.9"
The Warbler

the edge of America
Nov 16, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
Even better

Route looks bitchen to me

Like I said - that's what bolts are for

A few fellers round here need to open their minds a tad, methinks
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 16, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
Ya ya,
I've climbed a few towers and left solid anchors on them.

Everybody should.

If they wanna whine let 'em whine over slouch jobs!

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 7, 2013 - 10:34am PT
NOTE: this route is number 1 on the chop list. Blatant disrespect to the most proud tower in the desert... You dont do this to desert towers....

Jan 7, 2013 - 10:37am PT
make sure you use your real name so everyone knows who to give credit.

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:04am PT
Wait until after I get on it though...

Truckee, CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:10am PT
Bitching and whining like a bunch of tea-drinking old grandmothers on an internet forum is super effective.....keep up the good work.

Dont forget, chopping is ugly too. Minimize the damage thats already done by not causing more with estrogen or testosterone filled idealism and angst. If you dont like it dont climb it. If you dont live there, dont raise such a stink. Help the locals do whatever theyre gonna do, but jeebus jehosephat, pick your goddamn fights.

Most on here can do nothing but aid up the damn thing anyway or come down from the top. I dont like the fact that old boy put bolts up there, but its done, its there. Do our best to stop flagrant and unnecessary bolting, but until we can climb 5.13, how will we know if its unnecessary? Just because we/you/they dont climb 13 doesnt mean that its a blasphemy

Jan 7, 2013 - 11:42am PT
NOTE: this route is number 1 on the chop list. Blatant disrespect to the most proud tower in the desert... You dont do this to desert towers....


Trad climber
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
Only time will tell if the bolts are worth it. I know I will certainly never climb it. I dont think I could climb 13b at my physical prime so it is not going to happen for me in this lifetime. If superhero climbers that can climb 13+ actually go out and enjoy this route, I see no problem with it. if the route languishes into obscurity, it seems the bolting could be viewed as unnecessary since only a few extract enjoyment from the route.

Truckee, CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
^^^He gets it
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