Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 24, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
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http://www.climbing.com/news/wild-new-5-13-on-utahs-castleton-tower/
30 new bolts on the tower for them to send this. Great effort but not sure how I feel about all those bolts on a route only a small handful of people will ever be able to do just next to the classic North Chimney.
Thoughts?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 24, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
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Bolted routes should be reserved for places where gear routes can't be established. I've done six routes on Castleton and there are many more...the last thing the tower needs is a bolt line. Lot's of virgin rock in the area, take your f*#king drill somewhere else.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
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Thanks Jim. You echoed my thoughts about this. Just seems wrong to do a massively bolted route on such a classic.
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Master of Kludge
Trad climber
Grizzly Gulch, WY
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Oct 24, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
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Donni,
where gear routes can't be established . Begging the Question?
This route is exactly that. I suppose they would never be a gear route where these bolts are. But Trads could saw a crack in the wall to place gear where these bolts are.
To make sense You are going to have put better boundaries on your refutation than what you have said Jim.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 24, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
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It's Donini....certainly where the bolts are you can't use conventional gear We aren't talking about a swath of wingate sandstone, we are talking about an iconic tower with a plethora of established CLASSIC routes. Leave it be.
edit: It's a free world and bolting on BLM land is permitted, I'm only giving my personal opinion and will say no more on the subject.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Oct 24, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
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Sounds pretty cool to me. Nice job Chris and Sam.
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Byran
climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
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Oct 24, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
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It's awfully hard to say without seeing it up close, isn't it?. I like aretes almost as much as I like cracks, though unfortunately the former doesn't usually protect with natural gear as well as the latter. It certainly looks like a great line up a stellar arete. If the climbing is natural and there's some obvious features out there then it could very well be a modern classic worth sinking 30 bolts for.
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T Hocking
Trad climber
Redding, Ca
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Oct 24, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
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"It's like deja vu all over again!" Yogi Berra
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
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Byran, a modern classic that goes at 5.13b clip ups isn't going to be climbed by anything but a very small handful of people. Scott Cosgrove has 5.13 face routes in J-Tree that haven't seen repeats. And they're not 4 pitches of climbing. Just one pitch and they still don't get done.
A modern classic is something that people will actually get on and climb. If this was in the 11's or low 12's I think it could have a chance. But not at 13b.
A nice feather in the cap for the FA'ists, but I bet this thing sees less than 5 repeats in the next 5-10 years at best. But the 30 bolts will always be there.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Oct 24, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
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Hard sayin, not knowin.
Hi Beth! :-)
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Johnny K.
climber
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Oct 24, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
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Crux pitch is 35 meters with 16 bolts,a bolt placed roughly every 7 feet...
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Oct 24, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
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Having climbed this proud tower, I have to say...
Seems not the place for so much hardware, imo.
Yet, surely the line will speak for itself.
Some lines just say do it, eh.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Oct 24, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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A rap bolted line on Castleton Tower is sad. What happened to respecting the local ethics? A sport climb on a tower with a long history of traditional climbing sucks.
Put up, down I should say, by the same guy who did that pathetic thing Yodle This in the Tetons. The only top down line in the entire range. Why do we need so many bolts these days? The current trend of bolting everything is gonna come back to bite us one day.
Guess it's another disgrace he's bolted but can't climb.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
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Johnny K, EXACTLY! A sport pitch on Castelton no matter how hard it is just seems wrong.
ps - Hi Larry! So the sushi you and Jay had was good?
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Oct 24, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
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Looks freaking awesome actually, I'll bet it gets done a lot. You old farts underestimate how many people climb 13b.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
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Karo....5.13b desert sandstone tower climbing that it took this guy a couple of years and several partners to establish?
Don't think so.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Oct 24, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
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Yes Beth. Those guys make a mean roll.
Have you not been there?
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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Nope Larry. I'm vegetarian and veggie sushi is basically avacado and fake crab wrapped in rice. Not my thing.
But good to know...Steve loves sushi. Good to know they can kill it rolling in Moab.
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Rudbud
Gym climber
CA
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Oct 24, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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Nice Job Chris and Sam! To bad its not 5.10 then every body would be stocked.
Let the hate commence.
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