BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
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Oct 25, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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Amen Coz!!
And nice send Kalous!
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Oct 25, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
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Yes, Bruce, I am serious.
We were pretty disappointed to finally make it out to Taylor Cyn, and see the damage. The spalls are a couple of inches across.
Worse, someone obviously did the route, and then "backcleaned" it (since it diagonals).
Now, if they'd only known, then, how to chop properly.
What happened on Castleton can never happen in Canyonlands NP. I prefer BLM lands due to a lack of RR&Rs, at least for now. But, in Canyonlands: no hammering, no bolts (nowadays, climbers have been known to simulrappel off opposite side of a tower, since no new rap anchors are allowed) except in a life - threatening emergency...no chalk (generally ignored)...etc.
I'm not aware of any public land stewardship which presses the imperative to "preserve and protect for future generations."
Is this a good agenda?
Try to get a permit to bivi down on the White Rim...or in The Maze. A combination lock guards the 10mi 4x road to the "Tower" Anasazi ruin in the Needles District. 1st come, 1st served, no reservations for the combination...and it's 60 miles from Moab to the Visitors Center to get the permit.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 25, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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Seems like sour grapes and much ado about nothing. If you can't climb it, why be bothered by it. Does a view of bolts ruin your Desert experience?
Can we say Growing Up on Half Dome?
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Oct 25, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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Locker vs Donni. Knife fight at dawn.
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Epic E
Big Wall climber
CA
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Oct 25, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
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I don't like it because I cant climb it is what all the fuss is about. Instead of congratulating them on the send, pick it apart and call them out for not going ground up.
All the folks who don't understand why they didn't go ground up will never understand why and you will never climb a 5.13 "sport route". And im sure you could care less.
Why wouldn't you criticize a hard sport route? Theirs no way your going to put the time in to get stronger to climb it, . Keep putting your time and efforts into making other peoples achievements look bad on the internet.
Do any of you haters have any hard face climbs that you put up on lead that you could tell us about? I would like to climb them if you do. Where they at?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 25, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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Locker vs Donni. Knife fight at dawn. Lol!
Well Donini has the reach, and the training, but locker is scrappy and agile. he might be able to run between his legs before taking a stab to the heart or other vital spot.
Somehow I see those two cracking up in laughter before getting lethal....
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Oct 25, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
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Hi Jaybro!
Edit: !!!
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Oct 25, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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I don't recall anywhere near this much squabble over Excommunication. Is Castleton that much more sacred than the next door tower?
And when I look at that picture earlier in the thread with Sam and Chris's list of folks that they thank...it's a pretty solid list of Moab/Utah locals. Brad, Lisa, etc. If those folks are OK with it, I don't think too many out of the area folks have any right to complain.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Oct 25, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
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My $ is on Locker. I bet the dudes been in a bottle fight or two. :)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 25, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
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My $ is on Locker. I bet the dudes been in a bottle fight or two.
+1
dude looks like something out of metallica video
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Oct 25, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
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Dunno. Ever had Donini fix that icy stare on ya? Feller doesn't need a knife...
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locker
Gym climber
DUH!!!...
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Oct 25, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
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The battle between Jim and I can be done as gentlemen...
I suggest that we simply toss a coin...
If I win Jim HAS TO bolt a new line of my choice...
If Jim wins...
I HAVE to have sex with this woman...
 ...
PLEASE LET JIM WIN!!!...
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Oct 25, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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Sounds like a win/win.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Oct 25, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
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i agree with Jim.
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Jeremy
Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Oct 25, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
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I just puked in my mouth...
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locker
Gym climber
DUH!!!...
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Oct 25, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
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Plus what FOOL would want to get in a fight with such a legend???...
...
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Oct 25, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
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Don't swallow!
Next bout
The Kid vs The Coz
Should be a good match. Unless they get all bromantic.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Oct 25, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
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(photo stolen from Mtn Proj)
Just another example ^^ Bolted .13 arete right next to trad "classics".
As for the new Castleton Route.. I try not to spray about anything I haven't seen in person so I don't really have an opinion about it either way.
Edit to add: Locker.. I'm going to have nightmares now. What has been seen.. cannot be unseen. :0
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 25, 2012 - 04:09pm PT
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That arete looks too classic. Why is it bolted?
I can't climb that hard.
Tossers!
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Oct 25, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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Tossers!
No that would be the guy that just puked in his mouth.
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