New bolted 5.13b route on Castleton Tower.


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Trad climber
Starlite, California
Oct 25, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
Yes, Bruce, I am serious.

We were pretty disappointed to finally make it out to Taylor Cyn, and see the damage. The spalls are a couple of inches across.

Worse, someone obviously did the route, and then "backcleaned" it (since it diagonals).

Now, if they'd only known, then, how to chop properly.

What happened on Castleton can never happen in Canyonlands NP. I prefer BLM lands due to a lack of RR&Rs, at least for now. But, in Canyonlands: no hammering, no bolts (nowadays, climbers have been known to simulrappel off opposite side of a tower, since no new rap anchors are allowed) except in a life - threatening chalk (generally ignored)...etc.
I'm not aware of any public land stewardship which presses the imperative to "preserve and protect for future generations."

Is this a good agenda?

Try to get a permit to bivi down on the White Rim...or in The Maze. A combination lock guards the 10mi 4x road to the "Tower" Anasazi ruin in the Needles District. 1st come, 1st served, no reservations for the combination...and it's 60 miles from Moab to the Visitors Center to get the permit.


Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Oct 25, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
Seems like sour grapes and much ado about nothing. If you can't climb it, why be bothered by it. Does a view of bolts ruin your Desert experience?

Can we say Growing Up on Half Dome?
The Larry

Moab, UT
Oct 25, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
Locker vs Donni. Knife fight at dawn.

Epic E

Big Wall climber
Oct 25, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
I don't like it because I cant climb it is what all the fuss is about. Instead of congratulating them on the send, pick it apart and call them out for not going ground up.

All the folks who don't understand why they didn't go ground up will never understand why and you will never climb a 5.13 "sport route". And im sure you could care less.

Why wouldn't you criticize a hard sport route? Theirs no way your going to put the time in to get stronger to climb it, . Keep putting your time and efforts into making other peoples achievements look bad on the internet.

Do any of you haters have any hard face climbs that you put up on lead that you could tell us about? I would like to climb them if you do. Where they at?

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 25, 2012 - 05:07pm PT
Locker vs Donni. Knife fight at dawn.
Well Donini has the reach, and the training, but locker is scrappy and agile. he might be able to run between his legs before taking a stab to the heart or other vital spot.

Somehow I see those two cracking up in laughter before getting lethal....
The Larry

Moab, UT
Oct 25, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
Hi Jaybro!

Edit: !!!

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Oct 25, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
I don't recall anywhere near this much squabble over Excommunication. Is Castleton that much more sacred than the next door tower?
And when I look at that picture earlier in the thread with Sam and Chris's list of folks that they's a pretty solid list of Moab/Utah locals. Brad, Lisa, etc. If those folks are OK with it, I don't think too many out of the area folks have any right to complain.

The Granite State.
Oct 25, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
My $ is on Locker. I bet the dudes been in a bottle fight or two. :)
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 25, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
My $ is on Locker. I bet the dudes been in a bottle fight or two.

dude looks like something out of metallica video
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 25, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
Dunno. Ever had Donini fix that icy stare on ya? Feller doesn't need a knife...

Gym climber
Oct 25, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
The battle between Jim and I can be done as gentlemen...

I suggest that we simply toss a coin...

If I win Jim HAS TO bolt a new line of my choice...

If Jim wins...

I HAVE to have sex with this woman...



The Larry

Moab, UT
Oct 25, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
Sounds like a win/win.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Oct 25, 2012 - 06:35pm PT
i agree with Jim.

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 25, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
I just puked in my mouth...

Gym climber
Oct 25, 2012 - 06:47pm PT

Plus what FOOL would want to get in a fight with such a legend???...

photo not found
Missing photo ID#270220
The Larry

Moab, UT
Oct 25, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
Don't swallow!

Next bout
The Kid vs The Coz

Should be a good match. Unless they get all bromantic.

Credit: The Larry

Credit: The Larry

Jim Henson's Basement
Oct 25, 2012 - 07:05pm PT
Pratts Crack/Ecstasy
Pratts Crack/Ecstasy
Credit: justthemaid

(photo stolen from Mtn Proj)

Just another example ^^ Bolted .13 arete right next to trad "classics".

As for the new Castleton Route.. I try not to spray about anything I haven't seen in person so I don't really have an opinion about it either way.

Edit to add: Locker.. I'm going to have nightmares now. What has been seen.. cannot be unseen. :0

Sport climber
Oct 25, 2012 - 07:09pm PT
That arete looks too classic. Why is it bolted?

I can't climb that hard.

The Larry

Moab, UT
Oct 25, 2012 - 07:16pm PT

No that would be the guy that just puked in his mouth.
Sam Lightner, Jr

Social climber
Oct 25, 2012 - 07:49pm PT
Some clarification for all of you.

First, Chris botled nothing. He redpointed the crux pitch... I bolted it.
Most of the bolts were place on rappel, but not all. If you place a bolt, place a good bolt... but try not to place a bolt. That is my philosophy.
The bolt every 7 feet thing is inaccurate... that may be the math, but I think you will find it a bit more spacious than that.
This is not the first bolted route on the tower. Obviously the older classics have them in certain places, like the two next to the crack on K.I. More to the point, Dan Osman bolted a line on the tower a few years before he died, and Jays route on the North Face is bolted. Nearby, Excommunication, but also Holier than Thou on the Nun, and the usual finish for people on Fine Jade. Twenty five feet left of this arete is a bolt ladder, the Arrow Route, with more bolts than this line. That is the only route you can see all the bolts in the crux from. Someone should take Huntely Ingals, Harvey Carter, and Layton Kor to take for bolts too, if thats what you have a problem with. None of the crack moves on this thing are bolted, just so you know. There is no reason for that. You do need to crack climb to do this route.

Those of you who said kudos, thank you. Its a really cool line. Those who ripped on me, whatever. Enjoy yourselves. Please don't climb this route, which by the way is the only one on the tower with bolts that are painted to match the rock, if you do not like that it was put up. Specifically, Jim, your pretense of purity gets old.

edit... this is probably the last I will have to say on st for a while. enjoy.
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