New bolted 5.13b route on Castleton Tower.

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Messages 121 - 140 of total 205 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Oct 25, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
My $ is on Locker. I bet the dudes been in a bottle fight or two. :)
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 25, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
My $ is on Locker. I bet the dudes been in a bottle fight or two.

+1
dude looks like something out of metallica video
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 25, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
Dunno. Ever had Donini fix that icy stare on ya? Feller doesn't need a knife...
locker

Gym climber
DUH!!!...
Oct 25, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
The battle between Jim and I can be done as gentlemen...

I suggest that we simply toss a coin...

If I win Jim HAS TO bolt a new line of my choice...

If Jim wins...

I HAVE to have sex with this woman...


...




























































PLEASE LET JIM WIN!!!...


The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Oct 25, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
Sounds like a win/win.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Oct 25, 2012 - 06:35pm PT
i agree with Jim.
locker

Gym climber
DUH!!!...
Oct 25, 2012 - 06:47pm PT


Plus what FOOL would want to get in a fight with such a legend???...


















































photo not found
Missing photo ID#270220
...
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Oct 25, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
Don't swallow!

Next bout
The Kid vs The Coz

Should be a good match. Unless they get all bromantic.

Credit: The Larry

Credit: The Larry
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Oct 25, 2012 - 07:05pm PT
Pratts Crack/Ecstasy
Pratts Crack/Ecstasy
Credit: justthemaid

(photo stolen from Mtn Proj)

Just another example ^^ Bolted .13 arete right next to trad "classics".

As for the new Castleton Route.. I try not to spray about anything I haven't seen in person so I don't really have an opinion about it either way.

Edit to add: Locker.. I'm going to have nightmares now. What has been seen.. cannot be unseen. :0
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 25, 2012 - 07:09pm PT
That arete looks too classic. Why is it bolted?



I can't climb that hard.




Tossers!
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Oct 25, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
Tossers!

No that would be the guy that just puked in his mouth.
Sam Lightner, Jr

Social climber
WY
Oct 25, 2012 - 07:49pm PT
Some clarification for all of you.

First, Chris botled nothing. He redpointed the crux pitch... I bolted it.
Most of the bolts were place on rappel, but not all. If you place a bolt, place a good bolt... but try not to place a bolt. That is my philosophy.
The bolt every 7 feet thing is inaccurate... that may be the math, but I think you will find it a bit more spacious than that.
This is not the first bolted route on the tower. Obviously the older classics have them in certain places, like the two next to the crack on K.I. More to the point, Dan Osman bolted a line on the tower a few years before he died, and Jays route on the North Face is bolted. Nearby, Excommunication, but also Holier than Thou on the Nun, and the usual finish for people on Fine Jade. Twenty five feet left of this arete is a bolt ladder, the Arrow Route, with more bolts than this line. That is the only route you can see all the bolts in the crux from. Someone should take Huntely Ingals, Harvey Carter, and Layton Kor to take for bolts too, if thats what you have a problem with. None of the crack moves on this thing are bolted, just so you know. There is no reason for that. You do need to crack climb to do this route.

Those of you who said kudos, thank you. Its a really cool line. Those who ripped on me, whatever. Enjoy yourselves. Please don't climb this route, which by the way is the only one on the tower with bolts that are painted to match the rock, if you do not like that it was put up. Specifically, Jim, your pretense of purity gets old.

edit... this is probably the last I will have to say on st for a while. enjoy.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 25, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
Good job on a route I'll never venture to Sam.
Epic E

Big Wall climber
CA
Oct 25, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
ripped
ripped
Credit: Epic E

I heard this chick already got the second accent. The word is she thinks its a soft 13b.
skywalker

climber
Oct 26, 2012 - 12:38am PT
I'm with Jeremy!

Is that real???

Yikes!

S....
locker

Gym climber
DUH!!!...
Oct 26, 2012 - 12:41am PT


"The word is she thinks its a soft 13b."...



If I was with that BABE it would be a hard 8+...
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 26, 2012 - 12:47am PT
If I was with that BABE it would be a hard 8+

Adopted the metric system, did ya?
locker

Social climber
Oct 26, 2012 - 12:58am PT


I've always wondered why the Xtra small Trojans were too big...

;-/
Brad Barlage

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
I have been on the route and it is far from a "bolt ladder".

Sam has put up a lot of routes, and he did Ivory Tower right: safely bolted where there's no gear,and more space between hardware where the climbing is secure. Sam put a lot of hardwork and soul into the route.

If you've ever climbed in the desert, you've very likely clipped one of Sam's anchors. The entire community benefits from Sam's anchor replacement work and climbing preservation efforts.

Thanks for the new route, Sam. Congrats on the FFA to Sam and Chris Kalous...really inspiring to me.
The Alpine

climber
Oct 27, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
Blah blah blah.

I can understand the no bolt sentiment, but so what. Seems like a bad ass line that does not impede on the other routes.
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