New bolted 5.13b route on Castleton Tower.

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Brad Barlage

Trad climber

SLC, UT

Oct 26, 2012 - 10:57pm PT

I have been on the route and it is far from a "bolt ladder".

Sam has put up a lot of routes, and he did Ivory Tower right: safely bolted where there's no gear,and more space between hardware where the climbing is secure. Sam put a lot of hardwork and soul into the route.

If you've ever climbed in the desert, you've very likely clipped one of Sam's anchors. The entire community benefits from Sam's anchor replacement work and climbing preservation efforts.

Thanks for the new route, Sam. Congrats on the FFA to Sam and Chris Kalous...really inspiring to me.

The Alpine

climber

Oct 27, 2012 - 01:53pm PT

Blah blah blah.

I can understand the no bolt sentiment, but so what. Seems like a bad ass line that does not impede on the other routes.

Ben909

Trad climber

toronto

Oct 28, 2012 - 09:39am PT

Great post Sam and inspiring route. Looking forward to seeing it with my own eyes in a week or two (from a neighbouring route!).

Fluoride, the anti-bolt dogma that you cling to makes no sense when compared with the existing routes on Castleton (bolted pitch just left of the north chimney) and it is obvious that you just don't understand when you suggest Belly Full of Bad Berries as a 5.13 route that gets little traffic. No sh#t, it is a feet first puke fest! Then you suggest that Mill Creek is all sport which begs the question have you ever been there?

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

overchalking on Grant's Crack

Oct 28, 2012 - 03:35pm PT

Sounds like a great line. Nice job kids.

If anyone can be accused of thoughtless bolt placement, it isn't Sam. I bet he did a damn good job. Certainly he's been given a lot to think about in years and years of fixing other people's worn-out hardware and botch jobs.

"Bunch of Californians arguing against locals about desert ethics based on their trips to IC and the North Chimney. STFU." Ha! +1 for that.

Prezwoodz

climber

Anchorage

Oct 28, 2012 - 03:44pm PT

Didn't read all the posts but I thought there already was a sport pitch on Castleton. Isn't there a sport line variation for the last pitch of the North Face? Thought it was a 5.12 or something.

Not saying that there should be more or anything, guess its not for me to say...

Scott Bennett

Trad climber

Superior, Colorado

Nov 2, 2012 - 02:50pm PT

I'm late to the conversation, been out in the desert for a while.

I'm just writing to address the folks who complained that "only a small handful of people will ever be able to do" this route, and so it shouldn't be bolted.

The routes been up for less than two weeks, and has already seen three more attempts and one more redpoint (that I know of). I'm sure more attempts, and more sends, will go down in the next few weeks; the weather is perfect!

I can also vouch for the amazing quality of the rock and the moves. And of course the position is out-of-this-world!

Huge thanks to Sam for crafting this gem, and thanks to Chris for being badass!

Epic E

Big Wall climber

Nov 2, 2012 - 08:40pm PT

"Bunch of Californians arguing against locals about desert ethics based on their trips to IC and the North Chimney. STFU." Ha! +1 for that.

Its funny how a route in Utah could be a problem in California. You guys are the shit! keep on sending out there and we'll keep arguing over here, makes me wish I was still living over that way. I definitely know some folks from CO that will be heading over to send it too.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

overchalking on Grant's Crack

Nov 2, 2012 - 11:43pm PT

Maybe some Californian complainers should go take the West Face apart, I bet no one's been on it since the arete got climbed. And that Arrowhead atrocity...who climbs that anymore?

Epic E

Big Wall climber

Nov 2, 2012 - 11:56pm PT

Its really unbelievable how many shitty climbers there are in California that complain about everything. If your looking for shitty climbing partners with good ethics come on out to California.

Jimmy Russells

climber

Nov 2, 2012 - 11:59pm PT

More to the point, Dan Osman bolted a line on the tower a few years before he died

More to the point, he put a few bolts into a roof next to some cool dino tracks and never finished it. Dano was an amazing, wonderful human being but those bolts are 10x worse than the new arete bolts. They don't go anywhere and I bet no one's even used them since the FA. Prime example that establishing routes "from the ground up" is sometimes not a good idea. Funny how you never hear about these bolts from "concerned citizens" like Flouride and Donini.

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Nov 3, 2012 - 12:03am PT

A Califronia Complainer? Is that like a New York Nick?

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Nov 3, 2012 - 12:57am PT

Tokyo Tea....

md307

climber

jackson, wy

Nov 14, 2012 - 12:39pm PT

Wow, what a lot of hate. I have been on the route; it’s hard, aesthetic and proud. If you weren’t looking for it you wouldn’t be able to find it. My guess is that anyone that gets on it (and gets to the top!) will be psyched. If you are really going to discuss the value and appropriateness of a climb on Castleton then you should move one climb to the left. I believe it’s the “arrow route” and THAT IS a tasteless bolt ladder. It may have been done ground up but who cares? In my opinion that route was stolen from the future, with half as many bolts in different placements my guess is that the “arrow route” would go free as a spectacular face climb. Well done Sam.

Trad climber

Calgary

Nov 14, 2012 - 01:21pm PT

I agree with Gilwad. We won't complain if you put up some more routes in the Ghost. There was a lot of controversy around here when people started putting up long sport routes near Canmore. This died down after a bit and they became accepted.
I wish I could climb 5.13

howie doin'

climber

Big Pine, CA

Nov 14, 2012 - 07:10pm PT

Castleton Tower is a sacred stone for climbers. I hope this new line proves to be proud and deserving of respect in our greater community. I hope it provides for an enjoyable and aesthetic climbing experience for those who can send at that grade. Anything less is a desecration. Style of ascent matters less in this case, if it meets the above criteria.

The bigger issue of concern here is the apparent lack of consensus amongst prominent Moab area climbers before action was taken on an iconic desert tower. Who knows what kind of disrespect could be done in the future?

benkiessel

Trad climber

Gunnison, Co

Nov 14, 2012 - 07:31pm PT

Personally I'm super stoked about this route. I think it took some real vision to find this line.
I don't understand all the complaints.

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Nov 14, 2012 - 07:38pm PT

Hmmmm.

I have nothing but respect for Chris, don't really know Sam.

But I have climbed with the Colofornian whiners too.

I'm with the "haters gonna hate" school.

The only way I see to calm people down about this route is to go ahead with a bottom to top bolt ladder on the Nuns for BASE jumpers called Force Of Habit,..