New bolted 5.13b route on Castleton Tower.

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Messages 181 - 200 of total 218 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 15, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
Who the fuh-ch cares about some 5.13 sh#t.


You know like a fifth of the world watched the olympics, right?
piquaclimber

Trad climber
SEKI
Nov 16, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
I'm late to this thread but wow, what a bunch of lame arguments against this route. It looks badass.

RIGHT ON SAM! CONGRATULATIONS!

I posted the text below in an appreciation thread about Sam a while back but I think I'll repost it here after reading so much negative bullsh#t.

Sam had just climbed his 100th desert tower when I posted this...



"Just climbing 100 towers in the desert is impressive but what really struck me were the stats that went along with those towers...

29 were done solo
69 had anchor replacement or required new anchors
20 via a new route
12 were first ascents of the tower

I'm posting this because he would consider it bad form to spray about his contributions online.

BUT COME ON!

Out of 100 towers he has taken the time to install solid anchors on 69 of them. That's freaking awesome! Having been there for a few of those towers I can attest that replacing old angles and faded slings with half inch bolts and beefy chain does not make for a light pack! In fact, we weighed his solo haulbag the last time I was in Moab and it came in at 77lbs.

He has also
1. Funded the anchor replacement work he has done.

2. Served on the board of the Access Fund for 6 years.

3. Put up hundreds of routes from Utah to Thailand that have been enjoyed by thousands of climbers from all over the world.

4. Written 7 books including the guidebook for Thailand, All Elevations Unknown (about a wild expedition to a giant spire in the heart of Borneo that had never been explored by climbers), Exotic Rock (which covers Japan, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, Morocco, Greece, Norway, and South Africa), and the Roads Through Time series. (The Moab - Roads Through Time book is particularly interesting if you spend much time in the area)

5. Served 3 years as the President of the Moab Area Climbers Alliance, who's goal is to restore/improve the relationship between climbers and the NPS units in the Moab area."

Not covered above is the fact that Sam has been involved with Friends of Indian Creek for years and is currently the President.

In short, Sam has done a LOT for our climbing community (including putting up an amazing aręte route on Castleton) and all of you haters should calm down, get some perspective, and go climb something!


Brad Brandewie
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Nov 16, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
But being whiney about someone putting those god forbidden bolts on ultra classic crags is cooler than actually climbing.





"I don't always climb, but when I do, I make sure it's 5.9"
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 16, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
Even better

Route looks bitchen to me


Like I said - that's what bolts are for


A few fellers round here need to open their minds a tad, methinks
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 16, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
Ya ya,
I've climbed a few towers and left solid anchors on them.


Everybody should.

If they wanna whine let 'em whine over slouch jobs!
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 7, 2013 - 07:34am PT
NOTE: this route is number 1 on the chop list. Blatant disrespect to the most proud tower in the desert... You dont do this to desert towers....
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 7, 2013 - 07:37am PT
make sure you use your real name so everyone knows who to give credit.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 08:04am PT
Wait until after I get on it though...
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 08:10am PT
Bitching and whining like a bunch of tea-drinking old grandmothers on an internet forum is super effective.....keep up the good work.

Dont forget, chopping is ugly too. Minimize the damage thats already done by not causing more with estrogen or testosterone filled idealism and angst. If you dont like it dont climb it. If you dont live there, dont raise such a stink. Help the locals do whatever theyre gonna do, but jeebus jehosephat, pick your goddamn fights.

Most on here can do nothing but aid up the damn thing anyway or come down from the top. I dont like the fact that old boy put bolts up there, but its done, its there. Do our best to stop flagrant and unnecessary bolting, but until we can climb 5.13, how will we know if its unnecessary? Just because we/you/they dont climb 13 doesnt mean that its a blasphemy
weezy

climber
Jan 7, 2013 - 08:42am PT
NOTE: this route is number 1 on the chop list. Blatant disrespect to the most proud tower in the desert... You dont do this to desert towers....

MOMMY MOMMY LOOK I'M TROLLING ON THE COMPUTER!
Snowmassguy

Trad climber
Calirado
Jan 7, 2013 - 09:02am PT
Only time will tell if the bolts are worth it. I know I will certainly never climb it. I dont think I could climb 13b at my physical prime so it is not going to happen for me in this lifetime. If superhero climbers that can climb 13+ actually go out and enjoy this route, I see no problem with it. if the route languishes into obscurity, it seems the bolting could be viewed as unnecessary since only a few extract enjoyment from the route.
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 09:19am PT
^^^He gets it
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 25, 2013 - 08:25am PT
Hey weezy, i did find your mom on the computer, Redtube you should check her out
Scole

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
Jan 25, 2013 - 09:50am PT
Why?
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Jan 25, 2013 - 09:58am PT
If superhero climbers that can climb 13+ actually go out and enjoy this route, I see no problem with it. if the route languishes into obscurity, it seems the bolting could be viewed as unnecessary since only a few extract enjoyment from the route.

The same should apply to "museum climbs" that were sketched up by some dude on acid back in the 70's and haven't been touched since. If the standard is maximum enjoyment for those who would use that chunk of rock, why limit access to all those otherwise fun 5.8's by insisting that the original 40+ foot runouts be maintained?
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Jan 25, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
So following that logic, an obscure bolted sport route that is rarely climbed should be chopped? Who thinks routes are put up solely for noobs enjoyment? I happen to like runout slabs.
BrentA

Gym climber
Roca Rojo
Jan 25, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
This thread really mystifies me.

Two life-long established climbers, whom are known to live way on the good side of the style curve, establish a stellar looking arete climb on a classic tower.

What is the point of the story here? You aren't allowed to put new bolts on old towers?

I genuinely don't understand the counter-argument to this route.

This thread has more hate than the Fisher Towers slack line thread.

Climbings crazy.
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 27, 2013 - 03:56am PT
When you have a reputation as a rap bolter you are not looked at as an established climber but more of a rich prick that has no concern for desert climbing ethics.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 27, 2013 - 04:25am PT
When you are too chickenshit to use your real name when you spray negative sh#t about other climbers you come off as a complete and totall as#@&%e.
Nick Goldsmith
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 27, 2013 - 08:24am PT
I am a total as#@&%e who plays by the original ethics of desert climbing... I witness the best quality climbs being established from the ground up by the hardest climbers on the planet. If you dont want to run into as#@&%es like me i would suggest areas that have different climbing ethics. Its like climbing in the Czech Repub. with cams..... So i ask who is really the as#@&%e?
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