New bolted 5.13b route on Castleton Tower.

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Messages 181 - 200 of total 204 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 25, 2013 - 11:25am PT
Hey weezy, i did find your mom on the computer, Redtube you should check her out
Scole

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
Jan 25, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
Why?
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Jan 25, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
If superhero climbers that can climb 13+ actually go out and enjoy this route, I see no problem with it. if the route languishes into obscurity, it seems the bolting could be viewed as unnecessary since only a few extract enjoyment from the route.

The same should apply to "museum climbs" that were sketched up by some dude on acid back in the 70's and haven't been touched since. If the standard is maximum enjoyment for those who would use that chunk of rock, why limit access to all those otherwise fun 5.8's by insisting that the original 40+ foot runouts be maintained?
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Jan 25, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
So following that logic, an obscure bolted sport route that is rarely climbed should be chopped? Who thinks routes are put up solely for noobs enjoyment? I happen to like runout slabs.
BrentA

Gym climber
Roca Rojo
Jan 25, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
This thread really mystifies me.

Two life-long established climbers, whom are known to live way on the good side of the style curve, establish a stellar looking arete climb on a classic tower.

What is the point of the story here? You aren't allowed to put new bolts on old towers?

I genuinely don't understand the counter-argument to this route.

This thread has more hate than the Fisher Towers slack line thread.

Climbings crazy.
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 27, 2013 - 06:56am PT
When you have a reputation as a rap bolter you are not looked at as an established climber but more of a rich prick that has no concern for desert climbing ethics.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 27, 2013 - 07:25am PT
When you are too chickenshit to use your real name when you spray negative sh#t about other climbers you come off as a complete and totall as#@&%e.
Nick Goldsmith
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 27, 2013 - 11:24am PT
I am a total as#@&%e who plays by the original ethics of desert climbing... I witness the best quality climbs being established from the ground up by the hardest climbers on the planet. If you dont want to run into as#@&%es like me i would suggest areas that have different climbing ethics. Its like climbing in the Czech Repub. with cams..... So i ask who is really the as#@&%e?
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Jan 27, 2013 - 11:32am PT
Meh. If you can't stand behind your words you are a coward not an azzhole.
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 28, 2013 - 07:42am PT
Hey Larry, hope your dog shits in your truck again....
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 29, 2013 - 10:39am PT
Our rules are pretty damn stupid sometimes. not only are the rulzs stupid but they are highly situational depending on who you are. Folks with the right street creds get a free pass while no names or less populer/out of towners get crucified.

According to the rulze it is completly aceptable to establish an aid line ground up with all kinds of trenching, chiseling, drilling, chipping and hammering yet a free climber who chips a single hold is crucified and god forbid someone established a hard free climb that atually makes sense and has the clips in the right places. I have done my share of GU bolting and sometimes it works out great but other times you end up with a sh#t show that could have been avoided with some pre inspection and planning. It sounds like Dannos incomplete line of ground up bolts on Castelton could have been avoided with a bit of pre inspection?
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 30, 2013 - 05:52am PT
Tradman, boy you really got it figured out.....Lay off the crack pipe!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 30, 2013 - 06:44am PT
Don't smoke, do drugs or drink. Guess that violates a few of your rules as well....
Reeotch

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:03am PT
I think you've got a good point tradman.

I've noticed the same thing.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jan 30, 2013 - 09:12am PT
I am a total as#@&%e who plays by the original ethics of desert climbing

No, you're a 14 year old kid from sheboygan.

Because you see, you cannot claim anything about the strength of your character when you remain anonymous online. You may have many valid opinions and points, but you are an anonymous person so I get to assume your identity.

Go have your mom make you a hot pocket, like the good little virgin teenager you are. One day you can bring a name or a face to your cred, but until then you have to sit at the kids table.

Greg
pelut espania

Big Wall climber
Espania
Jan 30, 2013 - 11:04am PT
You american dogs have no site or the balls with all these bolts! Little peepee and big bolts for the american dogs! WOOF!! LOL!
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Jan 30, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
Is Pelut the Mexican/Spanish version of Werner?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 30, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
Pelut is pissed because he got busted for cheating his way up stuff in the Fishers.
Big Spaniard, little ballz, or something like that.

But his mama was plenty friendly.....
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Jan 30, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
+100 for tradman.

-10^5 for rapchuffer.

I've always been appalled by the damage aid climbers do, especially in soft sandstone, and especially when they whine about bolts on sport climbs.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Jan 30, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
the californicated tradiban need to get over themselves. Your ethics are in your own head, and have nothing to do with the reality of modern rock climbing.

Besides, the chalk and shiney chains on the IC traderoutes with waiting lines are way more of a visual and environmental impact than bolts on a 13 you will never be fit enough to do.
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