GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Nov 15, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
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Who the fuh-ch cares about some 5.13 sh#t.
You know like a fifth of the world watched the olympics, right?
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
SEKI
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Nov 16, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
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I'm late to this thread but wow, what a bunch of lame arguments against this route. It looks badass.
RIGHT ON SAM! CONGRATULATIONS!
I posted the text below in an appreciation thread about Sam a while back but I think I'll repost it here after reading so much negative bullsh#t.
Sam had just climbed his 100th desert tower when I posted this...
"Just climbing 100 towers in the desert is impressive but what really struck me were the stats that went along with those towers...
29 were done solo
69 had anchor replacement or required new anchors
20 via a new route
12 were first ascents of the tower
I'm posting this because he would consider it bad form to spray about his contributions online.
BUT COME ON!
Out of 100 towers he has taken the time to install solid anchors on 69 of them. That's freaking awesome! Having been there for a few of those towers I can attest that replacing old angles and faded slings with half inch bolts and beefy chain does not make for a light pack! In fact, we weighed his solo haulbag the last time I was in Moab and it came in at 77lbs.
He has also
1. Funded the anchor replacement work he has done.
2. Served on the board of the Access Fund for 6 years.
3. Put up hundreds of routes from Utah to Thailand that have been enjoyed by thousands of climbers from all over the world.
4. Written 7 books including the guidebook for Thailand, All Elevations Unknown (about a wild expedition to a giant spire in the heart of Borneo that had never been explored by climbers), Exotic Rock (which covers Japan, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, Morocco, Greece, Norway, and South Africa), and the Roads Through Time series. (The Moab - Roads Through Time book is particularly interesting if you spend much time in the area)
5. Served 3 years as the President of the Moab Area Climbers Alliance, who's goal is to restore/improve the relationship between climbers and the NPS units in the Moab area."
Not covered above is the fact that Sam has been involved with Friends of Indian Creek for years and is currently the President.
In short, Sam has done a LOT for our climbing community (including putting up an amazing arête route on Castleton) and all of you haters should calm down, get some perspective, and go climb something!
Brad Brandewie
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Nov 16, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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But being whiney about someone putting those god forbidden bolts on ultra classic crags is cooler than actually climbing.
"I don't always climb, but when I do, I make sure it's 5.9"
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Nov 16, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
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Even better
Route looks bitchen to me
Like I said - that's what bolts are for
A few fellers round here need to open their minds a tad, methinks
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 16, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
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Ya ya,
I've climbed a few towers and left solid anchors on them.
Everybody should.
If they wanna whine let 'em whine over slouch jobs!
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rapchopper
Trad climber
moab, utah
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NOTE: this route is number 1 on the chop list. Blatant disrespect to the most proud tower in the desert... You dont do this to desert towers....
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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make sure you use your real name so everyone knows who to give credit.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Wait until after I get on it though...
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Bitching and whining like a bunch of tea-drinking old grandmothers on an internet forum is super effective.....keep up the good work.
Dont forget, chopping is ugly too. Minimize the damage thats already done by not causing more with estrogen or testosterone filled idealism and angst. If you dont like it dont climb it. If you dont live there, dont raise such a stink. Help the locals do whatever theyre gonna do, but jeebus jehosephat, pick your goddamn fights.
Most on here can do nothing but aid up the damn thing anyway or come down from the top. I dont like the fact that old boy put bolts up there, but its done, its there. Do our best to stop flagrant and unnecessary bolting, but until we can climb 5.13, how will we know if its unnecessary? Just because we/you/they dont climb 13 doesnt mean that its a blasphemy
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weezy
climber
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NOTE: this route is number 1 on the chop list. Blatant disrespect to the most proud tower in the desert... You dont do this to desert towers....
MOMMY MOMMY LOOK I'M TROLLING ON THE COMPUTER!
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Only time will tell if the bolts are worth it. I know I will certainly never climb it. I dont think I could climb 13b at my physical prime so it is not going to happen for me in this lifetime. If superhero climbers that can climb 13+ actually go out and enjoy this route, I see no problem with it. if the route languishes into obscurity, it seems the bolting could be viewed as unnecessary since only a few extract enjoyment from the route.
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rapchopper
Trad climber
moab, utah
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Jan 25, 2013 - 08:25am PT
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Hey weezy, i did find your mom on the computer, Redtube you should check her out
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Scole
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 25, 2013 - 09:50am PT
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Why?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 25, 2013 - 09:58am PT
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If superhero climbers that can climb 13+ actually go out and enjoy this route, I see no problem with it. if the route languishes into obscurity, it seems the bolting could be viewed as unnecessary since only a few extract enjoyment from the route.
The same should apply to "museum climbs" that were sketched up by some dude on acid back in the 70's and haven't been touched since. If the standard is maximum enjoyment for those who would use that chunk of rock, why limit access to all those otherwise fun 5.8's by insisting that the original 40+ foot runouts be maintained?
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 25, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
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So following that logic, an obscure bolted sport route that is rarely climbed should be chopped? Who thinks routes are put up solely for noobs enjoyment? I happen to like runout slabs.
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BrentA
Gym climber
Roca Rojo
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Jan 25, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
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This thread really mystifies me.
Two life-long established climbers, whom are known to live way on the good side of the style curve, establish a stellar looking arete climb on a classic tower.
What is the point of the story here? You aren't allowed to put new bolts on old towers?
I genuinely don't understand the counter-argument to this route.
This thread has more hate than the Fisher Towers slack line thread.
Climbings crazy.
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rapchopper
Trad climber
moab, utah
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Jan 27, 2013 - 03:56am PT
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When you have a reputation as a rap bolter you are not looked at as an established climber but more of a rich prick that has no concern for desert climbing ethics.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 27, 2013 - 04:25am PT
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When you are too chickenshit to use your real name when you spray negative sh#t about other climbers you come off as a complete and totall as#@&%e.
Nick Goldsmith
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rapchopper
Trad climber
moab, utah
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Jan 27, 2013 - 08:24am PT
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I am a total as#@&%e who plays by the original ethics of desert climbing... I witness the best quality climbs being established from the ground up by the hardest climbers on the planet. If you dont want to run into as#@&%es like me i would suggest areas that have different climbing ethics. Its like climbing in the Czech Repub. with cams..... So i ask who is really the as#@&%e?
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