New bolted 5.13b route on Castleton Tower.

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 181 - 200 of total 212 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 7, 2013 - 10:34am PT
NOTE: this route is number 1 on the chop list. Blatant disrespect to the most proud tower in the desert... You dont do this to desert towers....
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 7, 2013 - 10:37am PT
make sure you use your real name so everyone knows who to give credit.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:04am PT
Wait until after I get on it though...
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:10am PT
Bitching and whining like a bunch of tea-drinking old grandmothers on an internet forum is super effective.....keep up the good work.

Dont forget, chopping is ugly too. Minimize the damage thats already done by not causing more with estrogen or testosterone filled idealism and angst. If you dont like it dont climb it. If you dont live there, dont raise such a stink. Help the locals do whatever theyre gonna do, but jeebus jehosephat, pick your goddamn fights.

Most on here can do nothing but aid up the damn thing anyway or come down from the top. I dont like the fact that old boy put bolts up there, but its done, its there. Do our best to stop flagrant and unnecessary bolting, but until we can climb 5.13, how will we know if its unnecessary? Just because we/you/they dont climb 13 doesnt mean that its a blasphemy
weezy

climber
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:42am PT
NOTE: this route is number 1 on the chop list. Blatant disrespect to the most proud tower in the desert... You dont do this to desert towers....

MOMMY MOMMY LOOK I'M TROLLING ON THE COMPUTER!
Snowmassguy

Trad climber
Calirado
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
Only time will tell if the bolts are worth it. I know I will certainly never climb it. I dont think I could climb 13b at my physical prime so it is not going to happen for me in this lifetime. If superhero climbers that can climb 13+ actually go out and enjoy this route, I see no problem with it. if the route languishes into obscurity, it seems the bolting could be viewed as unnecessary since only a few extract enjoyment from the route.
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
^^^He gets it
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 25, 2013 - 11:25am PT
Hey weezy, i did find your mom on the computer, Redtube you should check her out
Scole

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
Jan 25, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
Why?
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Jan 25, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
If superhero climbers that can climb 13+ actually go out and enjoy this route, I see no problem with it. if the route languishes into obscurity, it seems the bolting could be viewed as unnecessary since only a few extract enjoyment from the route.

The same should apply to "museum climbs" that were sketched up by some dude on acid back in the 70's and haven't been touched since. If the standard is maximum enjoyment for those who would use that chunk of rock, why limit access to all those otherwise fun 5.8's by insisting that the original 40+ foot runouts be maintained?
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Jan 25, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
So following that logic, an obscure bolted sport route that is rarely climbed should be chopped? Who thinks routes are put up solely for noobs enjoyment? I happen to like runout slabs.
BrentA

Gym climber
Roca Rojo
Jan 25, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
This thread really mystifies me.

Two life-long established climbers, whom are known to live way on the good side of the style curve, establish a stellar looking arete climb on a classic tower.

What is the point of the story here? You aren't allowed to put new bolts on old towers?

I genuinely don't understand the counter-argument to this route.

This thread has more hate than the Fisher Towers slack line thread.

Climbings crazy.
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 27, 2013 - 06:56am PT
When you have a reputation as a rap bolter you are not looked at as an established climber but more of a rich prick that has no concern for desert climbing ethics.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 27, 2013 - 07:25am PT
When you are too chickenshit to use your real name when you spray negative sh#t about other climbers you come off as a complete and totall as#@&%e.
Nick Goldsmith
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 27, 2013 - 11:24am PT
I am a total as#@&%e who plays by the original ethics of desert climbing... I witness the best quality climbs being established from the ground up by the hardest climbers on the planet. If you dont want to run into as#@&%es like me i would suggest areas that have different climbing ethics. Its like climbing in the Czech Repub. with cams..... So i ask who is really the as#@&%e?
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Jan 27, 2013 - 11:32am PT
Meh. If you can't stand behind your words you are a coward not an azzhole.
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 28, 2013 - 07:42am PT
Hey Larry, hope your dog shits in your truck again....
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 29, 2013 - 10:39am PT
Our rules are pretty damn stupid sometimes. not only are the rulzs stupid but they are highly situational depending on who you are. Folks with the right street creds get a free pass while no names or less populer/out of towners get crucified.

According to the rulze it is completly aceptable to establish an aid line ground up with all kinds of trenching, chiseling, drilling, chipping and hammering yet a free climber who chips a single hold is crucified and god forbid someone established a hard free climb that atually makes sense and has the clips in the right places. I have done my share of GU bolting and sometimes it works out great but other times you end up with a sh#t show that could have been avoided with some pre inspection and planning. It sounds like Dannos incomplete line of ground up bolts on Castelton could have been avoided with a bit of pre inspection?
rapchopper

Trad climber
moab, utah
Jan 30, 2013 - 05:52am PT
Tradman, boy you really got it figured out.....Lay off the crack pipe!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 30, 2013 - 06:44am PT
Don't smoke, do drugs or drink. Guess that violates a few of your rules as well....
Messages 181 - 200 of total 212 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews