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WBraun
climber
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Nov 17, 2011 - 11:29am PT
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The big Jaun is steep so not slabby.
That second pitch is a trip.
Most people will naturally fall/steer into a lay back position on it.
I straight in jammed it because it felt more secure that way, but the jams are thin.
It's a super cool route.
Freestone demands one to bring up some courage from deep inside you as some of those pitches will intimidate you when you first get there looking up at them.
I've done freestone many times and the most memorable time with 2 parties of 2.
Me and Merry with Conrad and Mugs behind us.
I had talked Mugs and Conrad into going up there with us that morning.
Fuking awesome .....
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 17, 2011 - 11:44am PT
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The 3rd on the Big Juan is pretty good also. Where the "hole" is denoted on the topo. Gear protected face climbing on some cool features in that area.
Flat out superb rock on that route.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 17, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
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If you want something slabby, check out New Gold Dawn on Mt Watkins.
I started a thread about it if you do a quick search.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2011 - 03:18pm PT
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Thanks for the replies!
Edging and steepness is desirable for the 5.11 and 5.12 range. More my style.
The Golden Dawn seems pretty cool too. Hopefully I can manage the 5.10+ slabs. It's on the list for next summer when the road opens back up.
The golden dawn thread is here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1276383&tn=0&mr=0
Also makes me want to check out Escape from Freedom. Doing the first continuous ascent would be a nice plum to pick. I'm going to try to get some info first from Tom... Sounds pretty hard!
 Luke
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
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Rhodo-Router,
Missed your post earlier. Just sent you an PM. Would love to see a topo/description.
A TR from the FA would be rad too. Adds to the psyche!
Luke
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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Workin' on it.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
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A bump since it's so nice in the Valley right now.
From this post and other things I came up with a list of what I thought to be rad looking routes. I've tried or played around on the ones at the bottom in bold and wanted to post up a few more photos. I'm still looking for good stories from any of these routes.
Following P2 of Romulan Freebird
The Crucifix
Beggars Buttress
Freestone
Ho Chi Min Trail
Autobahn
Galactic Hitchhiker
Windfall & Wind Jammer
Ribbon Candy
Yellow Corner
Vortex
Golden Dawn
Big Juan
Stoners Highway
Capitan Fairview
The Arsonist
The Chief - Yasoo Dome
Romulan Warbird
Milestone
Grand Wazoo
West Face - El Cap
Gates Of Delirium
Burden Of Dreams
Hotline
Blind Faith
Chouinard-Herbert
Golden Years
Burden of Dreams P1
Burden of Dreams P2
Crux Pitch of Golden Years
Splitters aplenty on the 4th pitch of Gates of Delirium. Photo by Vitality M
Clint has an even bigger list that meets my description here:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/
Anyone have any stories to from either list?
WE NEED CLIMBING CONTENT!!!!
Luke
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 24, 2014 - 12:53pm PT
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Golden Dawn on Watkins looks really fun. Hope I can get on it this year.
Also Windfall to Windchill seems like an ass kicker
Another attempt at Ribbon Candy would be awesome. But I am pretty intimidated by runout groove after the 5.11c pitch. But at least have to get there and see it. Even pitch 3 (5.10b per topo) was freaking hard. Not THAT much easier than crux on Beyond Lunacy. Even though I was following that 3rd pitch with a pack on, I dunno if it will feel much easier without. The crux is a crankfest.
Salathe route on HD seems like a great rarely done multi-pitch. Not a 5.11, but anyways...
Coming back stronger to Gates of Delirium would be nice. I wonder if I will ever be able to free the first pitch. "Hooudini funk" lol
What are good areas in Yosemite to set up a TR on 5.10-11 friction slab climbing for getting a lot of mileage and getting more comfortable on slab? Seems like slab would be helpful on Salathe and Watkins...Schultz's ridge?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 24, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
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Vitaliy,
Just go do Mr. Natural.
Afterwards you will be above Green Dragon and you can try it on toprope.
P.S. I updated the Golden Dawn topo a little.
Rick McGregor and Robert Parker (they did the FA of Emphemeral Clogdance back in 1981) did it in September with Urmas and Rick provided some edits. Rick also posted many photos of the climb on facebook.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 24, 2014 - 04:12pm PT
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Thank you Clint!
I remember there is a slab climb to climber's right of Superslide that I TRd some time ago. That seemed pretty nuts for an OS attempt lol. Some people are REALLY good at this rock climbing thing...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 24, 2014 - 05:56pm PT
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Rad thread Luke!
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bob
climber
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Jan 24, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
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I have a good couple of stories from Basket Dome's Milestone, but I need bit o time. Thanks for the photos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jan 24, 2014 - 09:09pm PT
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Nice shots cultureshock!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 27, 2014 - 01:25am PT
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Just go do Mr. Natural.
Afterwards you will be above Green Dragon and you can try it on toprope.
That worked really well. Mr. Natural was a really awesome finger crack. My friend and I both led it clean and thought the crux was not easier than 10d on Serenity.
Apron Jam is pretty physical for a 5.9.
And Green Dragon was freaking hard. Not even close to getting it clean. Seemed well protected though. Were bolts added? Not RX for sure.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 27, 2014 - 01:42am PT
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I loved green dragon vitaly, climbed it with riley a couple years ago. Had to wear moccasyms to get it, that c4 rubber was key. Tried in vibrams and just slipped over and over. Put on the slippers and sent!
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jan 27, 2014 - 11:43am PT
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tfpu luke!
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