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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 29, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
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So I'm looking for some Fall valley psyche. I know this topic has been rehashed over again but I want to step outside the box. I'm hoping for good tales, stories and photos (the things I really love about supertopo).
Everyone talks about Astroman and the Rostrum... There have to be more great 5.11 multiptiches in Yosemite! Same with the 5.12. I've heard good things about Hotline, Crucifix... Expand my horizons! Tell me a story!
One thing is that I'm looking for at least 5 pitches, so Moratorium, SxSW should be sadly be "overlooked". I have heard good things about Deamon's Delight, but again it is on the short side...
I tend to favor jamming and cracks over face climbing. I did read about a great 5.12 bolted route on middle cathedral near the Bircheff-Williams. the name escapes me.
Anyways, no more blabbering!
Already on my todo list are:
West Face of El Cap,
Chouinard-Herbert
I've heard mixed things about Beggars Buttress and Freestone (Geek Tower)
Any obscure favorites? Things off the beaten path, or maybe just ones not listed here.
Thanks in advance!
Luke
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jul 29, 2011 - 05:47pm PT
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Ho Chi Minh Trail - Middle Cathedral
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 29, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
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Freestone ~ amazing, bold climbing on terrific stone. The wide stuff up high is not too bad.
Windfall ~ Obscure but very high quality. You can do the 1st 3 pitches in a single 60M pitch.
Blind Faith ~ Super proud, not too bad with modern wide gear.
Hotline ~ A great odyssey on an amazing chunk of stone. You can do it at 5.11 & A1 if you cannot free the traverse which is short but tough.
Galactic Hitchhiker ~ I have not done this but the topo sez it's 39 short pitches long.
Burden Of Dreams ~ this route is really cool looking but it has some really tough moves. V8? perhaps?
I can't remember the name of the thing over right of Leaning Tower. The Vortex perhaps? done in 1982 by Holtcamp & Zieche. Many hard pitches up to 5.12.
Ribbon Candy ~ A Coz /Woody route that looks good and has a 5.11c hand crack on it!
Sean Jones' route in the same area called Gates Of Delirium.
The bolted 5.12 on Middle is called The Grand Wazoo and was done by Perry Beckham, et al.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jul 29, 2011 - 06:10pm PT
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Yellow Wall? up right of Bridalveil Falls? Never done it but the topo looks cool. Don't forget the S. Face of Watkins, awesome route.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 29, 2011 - 06:32pm PT
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What is the supposed "scary" pitch like on Freestone? Do C3's or offsets have any effect here? What kind of climbing?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 29, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
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The scary part of Freestone is runout face climbing above tiny wired nuts & a crappy fixed pin driven straight up into an expando flake. I recall 5.10+ moves 25' out from gear and the moves were kind of frictiony. I don't think offset aliens will help but you never know. The first moves past the first bolt are slick & thin 5.11a. The 5.11b corner up high is also a bit slick & has some pinscars in it. One of the better free routes I've done in Yosemite for sure.
Another route I thought of is Warbler's route on Basket Dome. It's 5.12b, 8 or 10 pitches, but I cannnot recall the name.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jul 29, 2011 - 07:13pm PT
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Power Point.
Lost in Translation.
Free version of Electric Ladyland (confusingly called "Crosstown Traffic)has a single 13 move and a bunch of 5.12 (6 pitches out of 12 or 13)
Might as well do the RNWF on Half Dome free, not exactly unknown.
The Moratorium is killer, don't let the want for another pitch keep you from doing it, if you REALLY need more pitches just keep going up the E Butt of El Cap.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 29, 2011 - 07:42pm PT
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Sean Jones told me of an awesome .11c route he did in the Ribbon Falls amphitheater (not Gates). No bolts, just an incredible free climb.
Has Ribbon Candy seen a 2nd?
There's some cool multi-pitch face routes behind the chapel, worth checking out (they're in the guide).
RNWFHD.
Gemini, plus others over there. Rob also did a wild route on Higher Spire, goes left off that Robbins aid route, just before the Chimney of Horrors.
Waiting on that new guide!
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Jul 29, 2011 - 08:17pm PT
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I always wondered about the "Vortex" over by the Leaning Tower.
It pitches out in the Meyers guide as:
11a
10b
10a
9
11c
12
11b
11b
12
10c
Never heard anyone talk about except Bob Yoho who just said "Holtkamp liked it."
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 29, 2011 - 09:05pm PT
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The scary part of Freestone is runout face climbing above tiny wired nuts & a crappy fixed pin driven straight up into an expando flake. I recall 5.10+ moves 25' out from gear and the moves were kind of frictiony. I don't think offset aliens will help but you never know. The first moves past the first bolt are slick & thin 5.11a. The 5.11b corner up high is also a bit slick & has some pinscars in it. Which pitches? Topo shows a crack system with no bolts on p3, calls it "thin & scary". p1,2,4 are reported as face climbing. Which pitch did Yugi fall off of?
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Jul 29, 2011 - 09:22pm PT
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I think it was Pitch 4 on Freestone that was a bit freaky.
That water-polished
brownish rock is a bit unusual for the Valley. I backed-off
on an early attempt with a strong team that I will not name...
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fosburg
climber
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Jul 29, 2011 - 09:32pm PT
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I bet Holtcamp "liked" (pre-facebook) that Eric Zschiesche was able to fire those 5.12 pitches on Vortex. I think Surette said it was classic. An undervalued awesome 5.11 is Demon's Delight, I think.
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Lurking Fear
Boulder climber
Bishop, California
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Jul 29, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
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I don't know about unknown, but Crucifix with Mary's Tears is my favorite multi-pitch route in Yosemite. I've done most of the usual suspects for comparison.
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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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Jul 29, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
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West Face of El Cap: keep this at the top of your to do list. It'll rock your socks off.
The Crucifix via Power Point to keep it at your desired grade.
The Chouinard-Herbert is an adventurous gem. A rad day out if you can get another pair of your buddies to do the Steck-Salathe. You can hear each other pretty much the whole way up and top out and go down the gully together. The Afro-Cuban flakes will demand your attention. And don't let the 5.8 OW fool you. Yeowch.
South Face of Mt. Watkins because I want to read more TRs from this climb.
Quantum Mechanic for that 5.12/5.13 route to work toward.
Have fun and keep posting your awesome TRs!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jul 29, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
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Almost nobody goes out to Elephant Rock. Hotline is among the easiest things over there. The routes are committing because you rap down from Highway 41, and then climb back up to your car. If you flub, you have to bushwack up garden-variety dirty poison oak 5.7 choss.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 30, 2011 - 12:56am PT
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Hotline is among the easiest things over there.
Almost every time I look over there and watch someone lead the first pitch they're hang dogging around up there.
So I guess that makes it easy .....
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jul 30, 2011 - 01:38am PT
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wrt ribbon candy, i know of at least one party that did it, so yes on the 2nd, pbly several by now.
you know, therz a lot of good climbers around...
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jul 30, 2011 - 01:59am PT
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Don't know if this fits your criteria, but ... http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/milestone.htm (copy and paste the whole URL)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 30, 2011 - 02:13am PT
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Luke,
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/
lists many such climbs:
 Long, Hard and Free - 80 routes - 10 or more pitches, 5.11 and harder
Long, Moderate and Free - 21 routes - 10 or more pitches, 5.10 and easier
Midsize, Hard and Free - 17 routes - under 9 pitches, at least 3 pitches 5.11 or harder
That's around 97 routes which meet your 5.11-5.12 and multipitch requirements (minus a few that are harder).
They can't all be crowded. :-)
Get busy with the West Face of El Cap, like Shino said!
It's not exactly obscure, but it's uncrowded and it's right up there in quality with A-man, plus the climbing is quite different.
Shade until afternoon - a good summertime route unless there are t-storms.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 30, 2011 - 02:19am PT
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I'm being a poser posting here, because only on a good day would I consider myself a 5.8 climber in the old sense of the word, but the Slab Happy Wall grabs my attention as much as any in the Valley. Really, if you're an 11/12 climber, look up there mid late afternoon with the sun oblique across the rock, and we'll have to hold you back.
from Clint in a great thread
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1506870
Slab Happy
1103. The Silent Freeway 5.10c *
1104. Slab Happy Pinnacle - Left 5.11a *, 4p, M
1105. Slab Happy Pinnacle - Center Free var. 5.10b *, 3p, M, L at 2nd bolt
1106. Slab Happy Pinnacle - Center Original 5.9 A4, 3p, Ro, M, R at 2nd bolt
1107. The Happy Ending 5.11a *, 2p
1108. The Dihardral 5.10c *, 4p
1109. Never Say Dog 5.11b **, 6p
1110. The Big Juan 5.12b **, 5p
1111. Golden Years 5.12a A0? **, 8p, hold broke and is no longer free (but see this thread - freed at V8/9 on the old left bolts)
I always liked the Gold Wall, too, but that was back when it was more or a mixed aid/free route.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 30, 2011 - 11:12am PT
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wrt ribbon candy, i know of at least one party that did it, so yes on the 2nd
Thx, nice to know. Not that I'm all that hooked up, but I'd heard it hadn't seen the 2nd.
And, now that Space Babble and Black Primo are rebolted, maybe those will see some traffic?
Also, there's that .12 out left of C/H on the Sentinel (what's that thing called)? Oh yeah: Psychedelic Wall (got it from Clint's page).
Hey Al... Peace Pipe?
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Jimmy S
climber
Granite State
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Jul 30, 2011 - 11:14am PT
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The Vortex is one of the best free climbs I've "done" in the valley. I'm surprised it hasn't become more popular. Neil Cannon and I were on track to make the first complete free ascent in the summer of 85. Unfortunately we only brought one quart of water and I seized up from heat exhaustion below the last pitch. Lots of interesting and challenging climbing on that one including the crux pitch a long,sustained, coke bottle kind of flaring layback protected by small wires.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2011 - 06:15pm PT
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Thanks for all the advice. Better start climbing!
Stories are the best. Any more tales about these routes?
Warbler, any photos from your basket dome route? Sounds pretty mega. 14 pitches of 5.11 would be quite a good day!
Luke
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jul 31, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
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loving this- keep it coming
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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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Levy, do you have a story on Blind Faith? How did you like it beyond the first pitch where a lot of people seem to stop?
Anyone have a tale to tell on Mad Pilot or the Uprising's overhanging fist crack? I used the search function, but too much political poppycock on those key words.
Would a mildly crazy person find any joy in "warming up" on the Kaukulator before jumping on the regular route? Or is it so soul-crushing that I will not regret leaving the big gear up above and just eat snacks and spray to kill time in line?
Any story, long or short. I'd like to hear them all, too.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Uprising is pretty cool, although I might tape up for it. The crack is hollow through to BF. The .10c getting over to the crack is a bit scary (no fall zone).
A buddy of mine went up to do Mad Pilot, but I never heard back on it. It's kind of hard to see from The Rostrum. Anybody have any stories on that one?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Coz, The Affliction follows one proud line.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Here's a tale from an ascent of Blind Faith for Tahoe 523 & others.
I was doing alot of terrific routes in the fall of 1987 with Mike Waugh & Dan Hershman. We did no falls ascents of Crimson Cringe, Fish Crack, Soul Sacrifice, Fool's Finger, Space Babble & many others during that trip. Waugh had left to do some horrendous bike riding marathon so Dan & I ran into Elliott Robinson & after some discussion on love for the wyde stuff, we hatched a plan to do Blind Faith.
We meet up at the top of the Rostrum & assembled what at that time was the biggest rack of large cams I'd ever seen. The route begins with a 5.11d thin crack & then has 4 pitches of OW rated 5.10b, 5.11a, 5.10c. 5.10a. Elliott was super psyched to lead the 5.11a OW pitch. I wanted the 5.11d thin pitch at the start & Hershman was game to lead all the rest of the wyde stuff, which was 3 pitches up to 5.10+.
We cruise down to the walk on ledge & with no warm up I took off on the 5.11d finger crack. I was always pretty solid on 1 1/8" jams so this baby suited me just fine. Real great pitch that 1st one is! It has a cool section where you change cracks and for a move there is a great lock before it gets rattly again. Soon enough I was at the belay & Dan & Elliott followed in fine style. Dan led the nest pitch, a 5.10 a/b squeeze/OW number that needs big gear for the belay anchors. I think we belayed off of tube chocks. Elliott was chomping at the bit to get on the next one, the 5.11a crux OW pitch. Well he just hiked it. Made it look 5.8 or so. For this section I taped my pant cuffs down around my ankles to keep the pants from bunching up when jamming in my knee on the OW part. It had a short hard OW part then it narrowed to fists & then to narrowed again to fingers just before you step left & belay at station shared with the regular Rostrun N. face route. This station is great. Just a nice stance in an outrageous position right below the ships prow that divides the 8th pitch of the regular route (5.11a/b) from the right side which Blind Faith takes on via a 5.10c/d OW pitch.
Dan led the 5.10+ flare just scooting right up the thing & Elliott & I followed & we just had the last, easy pitch to go. Dan quickly lead that one too & we were on top!
I always wanted to do Blind Faith again but it's hard to find partners for the wyde stuff as anybody who loves the wyde can tell you. I'll get up there again soon to play with the new generation big cams that are now rather ubiquitous. If you like wyde stuff you should get on up there & have some real fun!
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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I don't know whether it was the second ascent or not, but Chan Harrell and I did Ribbon Candymany years ago. It might have the best 5.11c pitch in Yosemite, the traversing hands pitch. Outstanding climbing from start to finish.
Yellow Wall is also excellent as is the Direct North Face on Sentinel.
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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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Levy, thanks for the write up. I have the utmost respect for OW climbers that made such "cruiser 5.8 looking" hikes up 11 fat cracks without modern gear. Us new schoolers have never known a world without huge cams, and I'm surprised that routes haven't been downgraded with the introduction of modern protection.
When I'm up there, I'm sure I'll be bumping my safety blanket above my head while the hardmen below heckle, 'if you're here to climb the wide, then climb the wide. the only thing you should be walking are your dogs!'
Thanks for adding to the stoke, Levy! I have a good feeling that I'll make the OW pitches look like 5.13+. Will report back whether I survive or concede to defeat.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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The Ow's on Blind Faith are very reasonable.I led every pitch .A great route.The complete Birchef Williams is fantastic .Probably dirty.All the more reason to get up there.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
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Bump for stories, the fall and rock climbing threads!
Luke
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Sep 14, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
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a farewell to kings on fairview..
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2011 - 06:26pm PT
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Bump!
To add to the list: Windfall
From The Warbler:
"There are four pitches, 10b liebacking and stemming, 11a six foot horizontal roof with thin crack, 11a+ double overhanging corner with wide to thin splitter crack (one of the steepest pitches in the Valley!), and the final 10d splitter straight in finger/hand crack pitch.
A spacious, flat summit ledge awaits the adventurous climber.
The climb is positioned on the very outside of the west buttress of Stanford Point Gully, AKA The widow's Tears Amphitheater, with a spectacular view of The Valley, the high country, and on a clear day, The Central Valley and Coast Range.
It is possible to avoid the first three pitches by climbing an easier route, Breezin', but why bother?
It's a bit of a hike, but worth every minute of it!
Some approach beta - walk to the base of the broken buttress below the route, and then up and west along the base of the wall until you can traverse back east along the base of the steep wall to the start of the route.
While you're up there be sure to crawl thru the exposed slot into The Widow's Tears Amphitheater - particularly amazing in the spring wildflower bloom."
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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Hey, let's not forget the topout pitches (Wind?). They don't add any numerical difficulty, but you do get to arrive on Stanford Point and walk down on a trail. Among the other charms of this slightly obscure journey...
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2011 - 05:43pm PT
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Vortex sounds pretty awesome any more info on that one?
Here is a cool tale from James Lucas about The Yellow Corner on the Leaning Tower:
"Around the corner from Yosemite's Bridal Veil Falls, and just before the overhanging Leaning Tower, a striking corner splits the cliff. The plumb line features golden hued granite and large blocks and ledges. Alex and I began the short approach up to the base on Saturday Morning.
The route was well shaded and stayed that way until early afternoon. Alex tied into the sharp end and linked the first two approach pitches in a 190' pitch. After a short squeeze section and some chossy and dirty 5.10, Alex reached a two bolt stance. I followed.
The next pitch is perhaps the best. After a hundred feet of exciting 5.10 crack climbing, one reaches a wide section, which the topo states as 10d offwidth. The route hadn't been climbed in some time and a small thorn bush protruded in the middle of the offwidth so that we were jamming our knees into the sharp plant. After thrashing through the offwidth one reaches a small stance and the beginning of a short corner, this is where the crux of the route is. The crack thins to a third of an inch and requires delicate tips laybacking. The 5.12 can be protected in a few ways: A bomber yellow alien can be placed in the bottom most lock hosing yourself for the difficult moves, or one can make the climbing easier but scarier by placing a poor blue alien. I chose the safest option and let Alex lead this part. He laybacked through the difficulties and made it to the anchor. I followed, making it through the offwidth and to the stance. I removed his blue alien, which had only two lobes in the crack, and climbed up and down to the crux a few times. I finally committed and fell. I pulled back onto the rock, figured out the move and climbed to the anchor.
The next pitch is excellent. From the belay a series of layback takes you to beginning of the 5.11 crux of the pitch, which is protected by a small poorly placed knifeblade. After laybacking a ways to another bolt, the line reachs a small roof, which one underclings and then laybacks around. The pitch is fairly sporty . There are places to jam in gear but the protection is porr and it is best to go for it.
The fifth pitch climbs a small chossy corner and then traverses past two bolts to a large ledge. I led this pitch as well, making my way through the 5.12 span between bolts in the middle of the traverse. A small rail lays next to the bolt and getting across to the ledge is another big span. I moved my hand as far left on the rail as I could and jumped to the ledge, hoping to stick a sort of iron cross. I fell, arcing in a big pendulum. After a few more tries, I managed to get to the ledge. Alex followed cleanly and surmonted this section by moving his feet far over and then karate kicking his leg onto the ledge.
Though there is one more pitch to the summit, we decided to rappel from here. The last pitch looks chossy and all the hard climbing is over with. This route is good though could use some more ascents to clean it up. It is a bit adventurous and the 5.12 R rating is well deserved. "
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=392052&tn=0
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2011 - 05:43pm PT
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Also the Big Juan sounds killer. Is the bolted climbing more edging and face or slab?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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Nov 16, 2011 - 11:26pm PT
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cultureshock, if it's still dry up there we did a new route to the left of the SH pillar a couple years ago. I think still unrepeated. Holler if you want a description. Really nice rock, bolted belays, pretty user-friendly. 900', good in the late fall. Probably not as run as the Woodward lines, I'm no hero.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 17, 2011 - 11:06am PT
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The Big Juan is killer.
More edging/face than slabby, as I recall.
I've seen posts from Werner stating he's done it - he might remember more clearly than me though. Or JW, but I don't think he's visiting ST much currently.
The Golden Years thread has some great pictures of the area, if you haven't already seen them. It looks like Clint has the Big Juan belays marked pretty well.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1506870&tn=20
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 17, 2011 - 11:29am PT
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The big Jaun is steep so not slabby.
That second pitch is a trip.
Most people will naturally fall/steer into a lay back position on it.
I straight in jammed it because it felt more secure that way, but the jams are thin.
It's a super cool route.
Freestone demands one to bring up some courage from deep inside you as some of those pitches will intimidate you when you first get there looking up at them.
I've done freestone many times and the most memorable time with 2 parties of 2.
Me and Merry with Conrad and Mugs behind us.
I had talked Mugs and Conrad into going up there with us that morning.
Fuking awesome .....
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 17, 2011 - 11:44am PT
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The 3rd on the Big Juan is pretty good also. Where the "hole" is denoted on the topo. Gear protected face climbing on some cool features in that area.
Flat out superb rock on that route.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 17, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
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If you want something slabby, check out New Gold Dawn on Mt Watkins.
I started a thread about it if you do a quick search.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2011 - 03:18pm PT
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Thanks for the replies!
Edging and steepness is desirable for the 5.11 and 5.12 range. More my style.
The Golden Dawn seems pretty cool too. Hopefully I can manage the 5.10+ slabs. It's on the list for next summer when the road opens back up.
The golden dawn thread is here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1276383&tn=0&mr=0
Also makes me want to check out Escape from Freedom. Doing the first continuous ascent would be a nice plum to pick. I'm going to try to get some info first from Tom... Sounds pretty hard!
Luke
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
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Rhodo-Router,
Missed your post earlier. Just sent you an PM. Would love to see a topo/description.
A TR from the FA would be rad too. Adds to the psyche!
Luke
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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Workin' on it.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
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A bump since it's so nice in the Valley right now.
From this post and other things I came up with a list of what I thought to be rad looking routes. I've tried or played around on the ones at the bottom in bold and wanted to post up a few more photos. I'm still looking for good stories from any of these routes.
Following P2 of Romulan Freebird
The Crucifix
Beggars Buttress
Freestone
Ho Chi Min Trail
Autobahn
Galactic Hitchhiker
Windfall & Wind Jammer
Ribbon Candy
Yellow Corner
Vortex
Golden Dawn
Big Juan
Stoners Highway
Capitan Fairview
The Arsonist
The Chief - Yasoo Dome
Romulan Warbird
Milestone
Grand Wazoo
West Face - El Cap
Gates Of Delirium
Burden Of Dreams
Hotline
Blind Faith
Chouinard-Herbert
Golden Years
Burden of Dreams P1
Burden of Dreams P2
Crux Pitch of Golden Years
Splitters aplenty on the 4th pitch of Gates of Delirium. Photo by Vitality M
Clint has an even bigger list that meets my description here:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/
Anyone have any stories to from either list?
WE NEED CLIMBING CONTENT!!!!
Luke
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 24, 2014 - 12:53pm PT
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Golden Dawn on Watkins looks really fun. Hope I can get on it this year.
Also Windfall to Windchill seems like an ass kicker
Another attempt at Ribbon Candy would be awesome. But I am pretty intimidated by runout groove after the 5.11c pitch. But at least have to get there and see it. Even pitch 3 (5.10b per topo) was freaking hard. Not THAT much easier than crux on Beyond Lunacy. Even though I was following that 3rd pitch with a pack on, I dunno if it will feel much easier without. The crux is a crankfest.
Salathe route on HD seems like a great rarely done multi-pitch. Not a 5.11, but anyways...
Coming back stronger to Gates of Delirium would be nice. I wonder if I will ever be able to free the first pitch. "Hooudini funk" lol
What are good areas in Yosemite to set up a TR on 5.10-11 friction slab climbing for getting a lot of mileage and getting more comfortable on slab? Seems like slab would be helpful on Salathe and Watkins...Schultz's ridge?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 24, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
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Vitaliy,
Just go do Mr. Natural.
Afterwards you will be above Green Dragon and you can try it on toprope.
P.S. I updated the Golden Dawn topo a little.
Rick McGregor and Robert Parker (they did the FA of Emphemeral Clogdance back in 1981) did it in September with Urmas and Rick provided some edits. Rick also posted many photos of the climb on facebook.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 24, 2014 - 04:12pm PT
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Thank you Clint!
I remember there is a slab climb to climber's right of Superslide that I TRd some time ago. That seemed pretty nuts for an OS attempt lol. Some people are REALLY good at this rock climbing thing...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 24, 2014 - 05:56pm PT
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Rad thread Luke!
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bob
climber
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Jan 24, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
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I have a good couple of stories from Basket Dome's Milestone, but I need bit o time. Thanks for the photos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jan 24, 2014 - 09:09pm PT
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Nice shots cultureshock!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 27, 2014 - 01:25am PT
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Just go do Mr. Natural.
Afterwards you will be above Green Dragon and you can try it on toprope.
That worked really well. Mr. Natural was a really awesome finger crack. My friend and I both led it clean and thought the crux was not easier than 10d on Serenity.
Apron Jam is pretty physical for a 5.9.
And Green Dragon was freaking hard. Not even close to getting it clean. Seemed well protected though. Were bolts added? Not RX for sure.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 27, 2014 - 01:42am PT
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I loved green dragon vitaly, climbed it with riley a couple years ago. Had to wear moccasyms to get it, that c4 rubber was key. Tried in vibrams and just slipped over and over. Put on the slippers and sent!
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jan 27, 2014 - 11:43am PT
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tfpu luke!
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| Messages 1 - 58 of total 58 in this topic |
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