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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 30, 2011 - 02:19am PT
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I'm being a poser posting here, because only on a good day would I consider myself a 5.8 climber in the old sense of the word, but the Slab Happy Wall grabs my attention as much as any in the Valley. Really, if you're an 11/12 climber, look up there mid late afternoon with the sun oblique across the rock, and we'll have to hold you back.
from Clint in a great thread
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1506870
Slab Happy
1103. The Silent Freeway 5.10c *
1104. Slab Happy Pinnacle - Left 5.11a *, 4p, M
1105. Slab Happy Pinnacle - Center Free var. 5.10b *, 3p, M, L at 2nd bolt
1106. Slab Happy Pinnacle - Center Original 5.9 A4, 3p, Ro, M, R at 2nd bolt
1107. The Happy Ending 5.11a *, 2p
1108. The Dihardral 5.10c *, 4p
1109. Never Say Dog 5.11b **, 6p
1110. The Big Juan 5.12b **, 5p
1111. Golden Years 5.12a A0? **, 8p, hold broke and is no longer free (but see this thread - freed at V8/9 on the old left bolts)
I always liked the Gold Wall, too, but that was back when it was more or a mixed aid/free route.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 30, 2011 - 11:12am PT
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wrt ribbon candy, i know of at least one party that did it, so yes on the 2nd
Thx, nice to know. Not that I'm all that hooked up, but I'd heard it hadn't seen the 2nd.
And, now that Space Babble and Black Primo are rebolted, maybe those will see some traffic?
Also, there's that .12 out left of C/H on the Sentinel (what's that thing called)? Oh yeah: Psychedelic Wall (got it from Clint's page).
Hey Al... Peace Pipe?
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Jimmy S
climber
Granite State
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Jul 30, 2011 - 11:14am PT
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The Vortex is one of the best free climbs I've "done" in the valley. I'm surprised it hasn't become more popular. Neil Cannon and I were on track to make the first complete free ascent in the summer of 85. Unfortunately we only brought one quart of water and I seized up from heat exhaustion below the last pitch. Lots of interesting and challenging climbing on that one including the crux pitch a long,sustained, coke bottle kind of flaring layback protected by small wires.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2011 - 06:15pm PT
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Thanks for all the advice. Better start climbing!
Stories are the best. Any more tales about these routes?
Warbler, any photos from your basket dome route? Sounds pretty mega. 14 pitches of 5.11 would be quite a good day!
 Luke
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jul 31, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
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loving this- keep it coming
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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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Levy, do you have a story on Blind Faith? How did you like it beyond the first pitch where a lot of people seem to stop?
Anyone have a tale to tell on Mad Pilot or the Uprising's overhanging fist crack? I used the search function, but too much political poppycock on those key words.
Would a mildly crazy person find any joy in "warming up" on the Kaukulator before jumping on the regular route? Or is it so soul-crushing that I will not regret leaving the big gear up above and just eat snacks and spray to kill time in line?
Any story, long or short. I'd like to hear them all, too.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Uprising is pretty cool, although I might tape up for it. The crack is hollow through to BF. The .10c getting over to the crack is a bit scary (no fall zone).
A buddy of mine went up to do Mad Pilot, but I never heard back on it. It's kind of hard to see from The Rostrum. Anybody have any stories on that one?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Coz, The Affliction follows one proud line.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Here's a tale from an ascent of Blind Faith for Tahoe 523 & others.
I was doing alot of terrific routes in the fall of 1987 with Mike Waugh & Dan Hershman. We did no falls ascents of Crimson Cringe, Fish Crack, Soul Sacrifice, Fool's Finger, Space Babble & many others during that trip. Waugh had left to do some horrendous bike riding marathon so Dan & I ran into Elliott Robinson & after some discussion on love for the wyde stuff, we hatched a plan to do Blind Faith.
We meet up at the top of the Rostrum & assembled what at that time was the biggest rack of large cams I'd ever seen. The route begins with a 5.11d thin crack & then has 4 pitches of OW rated 5.10b, 5.11a, 5.10c. 5.10a. Elliott was super psyched to lead the 5.11a OW pitch. I wanted the 5.11d thin pitch at the start & Hershman was game to lead all the rest of the wyde stuff, which was 3 pitches up to 5.10+.
We cruise down to the walk on ledge & with no warm up I took off on the 5.11d finger crack. I was always pretty solid on 1 1/8" jams so this baby suited me just fine. Real great pitch that 1st one is! It has a cool section where you change cracks and for a move there is a great lock before it gets rattly again. Soon enough I was at the belay & Dan & Elliott followed in fine style. Dan led the nest pitch, a 5.10 a/b squeeze/OW number that needs big gear for the belay anchors. I think we belayed off of tube chocks. Elliott was chomping at the bit to get on the next one, the 5.11a crux OW pitch. Well he just hiked it. Made it look 5.8 or so. For this section I taped my pant cuffs down around my ankles to keep the pants from bunching up when jamming in my knee on the OW part. It had a short hard OW part then it narrowed to fists & then to narrowed again to fingers just before you step left & belay at station shared with the regular Rostrun N. face route. This station is great. Just a nice stance in an outrageous position right below the ships prow that divides the 8th pitch of the regular route (5.11a/b) from the right side which Blind Faith takes on via a 5.10c/d OW pitch.
Dan led the 5.10+ flare just scooting right up the thing & Elliott & I followed & we just had the last, easy pitch to go. Dan quickly lead that one too & we were on top!
I always wanted to do Blind Faith again but it's hard to find partners for the wyde stuff as anybody who loves the wyde can tell you. I'll get up there again soon to play with the new generation big cams that are now rather ubiquitous. If you like wyde stuff you should get on up there & have some real fun!
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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I don't know whether it was the second ascent or not, but Chan Harrell and I did Ribbon Candymany years ago. It might have the best 5.11c pitch in Yosemite, the traversing hands pitch. Outstanding climbing from start to finish.
Yellow Wall is also excellent as is the Direct North Face on Sentinel.
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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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Levy, thanks for the write up. I have the utmost respect for OW climbers that made such "cruiser 5.8 looking" hikes up 11 fat cracks without modern gear. Us new schoolers have never known a world without huge cams, and I'm surprised that routes haven't been downgraded with the introduction of modern protection.
When I'm up there, I'm sure I'll be bumping my safety blanket above my head while the hardmen below heckle, 'if you're here to climb the wide, then climb the wide. the only thing you should be walking are your dogs!'
Thanks for adding to the stoke, Levy! I have a good feeling that I'll make the OW pitches look like 5.13+. Will report back whether I survive or concede to defeat.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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The Ow's on Blind Faith are very reasonable.I led every pitch .A great route.The complete Birchef Williams is fantastic .Probably dirty.All the more reason to get up there.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
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Bump for stories, the fall and rock climbing threads!
Luke
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Sep 14, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
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a farewell to kings on fairview..
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2011 - 06:26pm PT
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Bump!
To add to the list: Windfall
From The Warbler:
"There are four pitches, 10b liebacking and stemming, 11a six foot horizontal roof with thin crack, 11a+ double overhanging corner with wide to thin splitter crack (one of the steepest pitches in the Valley!), and the final 10d splitter straight in finger/hand crack pitch.
A spacious, flat summit ledge awaits the adventurous climber.
The climb is positioned on the very outside of the west buttress of Stanford Point Gully, AKA The widow's Tears Amphitheater, with a spectacular view of The Valley, the high country, and on a clear day, The Central Valley and Coast Range.
It is possible to avoid the first three pitches by climbing an easier route, Breezin', but why bother?
It's a bit of a hike, but worth every minute of it!
Some approach beta - walk to the base of the broken buttress below the route, and then up and west along the base of the wall until you can traverse back east along the base of the steep wall to the start of the route.
While you're up there be sure to crawl thru the exposed slot into The Widow's Tears Amphitheater - particularly amazing in the spring wildflower bloom."
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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Hey, let's not forget the topout pitches (Wind?). They don't add any numerical difficulty, but you do get to arrive on Stanford Point and walk down on a trail. Among the other charms of this slightly obscure journey...
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2011 - 05:43pm PT
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Vortex sounds pretty awesome any more info on that one?
Here is a cool tale from James Lucas about The Yellow Corner on the Leaning Tower:
"Around the corner from Yosemite's Bridal Veil Falls, and just before the overhanging Leaning Tower, a striking corner splits the cliff. The plumb line features golden hued granite and large blocks and ledges. Alex and I began the short approach up to the base on Saturday Morning.
The route was well shaded and stayed that way until early afternoon. Alex tied into the sharp end and linked the first two approach pitches in a 190' pitch. After a short squeeze section and some chossy and dirty 5.10, Alex reached a two bolt stance. I followed.
The next pitch is perhaps the best. After a hundred feet of exciting 5.10 crack climbing, one reaches a wide section, which the topo states as 10d offwidth. The route hadn't been climbed in some time and a small thorn bush protruded in the middle of the offwidth so that we were jamming our knees into the sharp plant. After thrashing through the offwidth one reaches a small stance and the beginning of a short corner, this is where the crux of the route is. The crack thins to a third of an inch and requires delicate tips laybacking. The 5.12 can be protected in a few ways: A bomber yellow alien can be placed in the bottom most lock hosing yourself for the difficult moves, or one can make the climbing easier but scarier by placing a poor blue alien. I chose the safest option and let Alex lead this part. He laybacked through the difficulties and made it to the anchor. I followed, making it through the offwidth and to the stance. I removed his blue alien, which had only two lobes in the crack, and climbed up and down to the crux a few times. I finally committed and fell. I pulled back onto the rock, figured out the move and climbed to the anchor.
The next pitch is excellent. From the belay a series of layback takes you to beginning of the 5.11 crux of the pitch, which is protected by a small poorly placed knifeblade. After laybacking a ways to another bolt, the line reachs a small roof, which one underclings and then laybacks around. The pitch is fairly sporty . There are places to jam in gear but the protection is porr and it is best to go for it.
The fifth pitch climbs a small chossy corner and then traverses past two bolts to a large ledge. I led this pitch as well, making my way through the 5.12 span between bolts in the middle of the traverse. A small rail lays next to the bolt and getting across to the ledge is another big span. I moved my hand as far left on the rail as I could and jumped to the ledge, hoping to stick a sort of iron cross. I fell, arcing in a big pendulum. After a few more tries, I managed to get to the ledge. Alex followed cleanly and surmonted this section by moving his feet far over and then karate kicking his leg onto the ledge.
Though there is one more pitch to the summit, we decided to rappel from here. The last pitch looks chossy and all the hard climbing is over with. This route is good though could use some more ascents to clean it up. It is a bit adventurous and the 5.12 R rating is well deserved. "
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=392052&tn=0
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2011 - 05:43pm PT
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Also the Big Juan sounds killer. Is the bolted climbing more edging and face or slab?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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Nov 16, 2011 - 11:26pm PT
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cultureshock, if it's still dry up there we did a new route to the left of the SH pillar a couple years ago. I think still unrepeated. Holler if you want a description. Really nice rock, bolted belays, pretty user-friendly. 900', good in the late fall. Probably not as run as the Woodward lines, I'm no hero.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 17, 2011 - 11:06am PT
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The Big Juan is killer.
More edging/face than slabby, as I recall.
I've seen posts from Werner stating he's done it - he might remember more clearly than me though. Or JW, but I don't think he's visiting ST much currently.
The Golden Years thread has some great pictures of the area, if you haven't already seen them. It looks like Clint has the Big Juan belays marked pretty well.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1506870&tn=20
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