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Impaler

Social climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 4, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
The summer is here and with the thin snowpack in the mountains it's time to start cranking! While I'm not trying to claim to be a hardman (I'm known to go sport clipping and occasionally even drag a crash pad around), I'd like to come up with a list of dream routes to do in the High Sierra to keep the stoke high! Below is the list that I compiled over the last few years. My criteria are that the routes have to be at least 2 hours away from any road, hopefully at elevation, have at least 3 pitches, and feature good quality stone. Obviously, I'm interested in all-free 5.11 or harder routes, but would also love to hear about anything requiring just a bit of aid with some potential to go free (like Crimson Wall, I Fink therefore I am, and Innominata). I'll try to edit the list as we go, so, please, let me know if any corrections are needed. Stared routes are confirmed to be of classic or very good quality.

Free Routes:

5.13
Incredible Hulk "Airstream" 13b* Croft Nettle 2005
Incredible Hulk "Nalazak" 13- Rivera Whittaker 2011 - 1 pitch variation to Venturi Effect

5.12
Alfred's Tooth "Pleasure Garden" 12 Haden Pennings 2010
Bubbs Creek Wall "Samurai Warrior" 12a* Thau Nettle 1998, FFA Croft Nettle 2005
Bubbs Creek Wall "What's Up Bubb?" 12a* Rob Gene 2000, FFA Stefurak Zak 2014
Bubbs Creek Wall "Emperor" 12a*, Musiyenko et al. 2015
Chamberlin "Asleep at the Wheel" 12-* Pennings Haden 2010
Chamberlin "Reckless Driving" 12 Pennings Haden 2011
Cleaver "Butcher" 12 Reed Musiyenko 2016
Fourth Needle "East Face" 12- Zeugswetter Corliss Rickert 2010, FFA Zeugswetter Corliss Ross 2011
Gorge of Despair "Despairadoes" 12a Solem Griffie 1996
Incredible Hulk "Lenticular Gyrations" 12c Cassebeer Gicklhorn O'Donnell 2016
Incredible Hulk "Wind Shear" 12 Croft Nettle Puhvel 2014
Incredible Hulk "Solar Flare" 12d* Croft Anker 2007
Incredible Hulk "Venturi Effect" 12c* Croft Nettle Davis 2004-2005
Incredible Hulk "Blowhard" 12c* Croft Stevens Standteiner 2004
Incredible Hulk "Eye of the Storm" 12 Oblinger Davis Copp 2007
Incredible Hulk "Solar Burn" 12a* Croft Nettle 2008 - 5 pitch variation to the start of Solar Flare
Incredible Hulk "Lost in the Sun" 12a* Stefurak et al. 2011
Keeler Needle "Crimson Wall" 12- (if escape left to Harding route, otherwise 12d A3+) Brown Carville Steele 1991-1992
Keeler Needle "Blood of the Monkey" 12 Moser Ness 2012
Lone Pine Peak "Mountain Devil Dike" 12d Wilson Groff 2012
Peak 11,357 "Crystal Cowboy" 12c Bissell McKee, FFA Bissell 2014 - Cathedral area, Tuolumne

5.11
Angel Wings "South Arete Direct" 11+* Rowell Jones 1971, FFA Leversee McConachie 1984, Nettle Nowak 1991 (direct)
Angel Wings "Valkyrie" 11+* Croft Nettle Thau Epperson 2012
Angel Wings "Val Kilmer" 11+ Gibson Schaffer 2013 - shares first 4 with Valkyrie
Barnard "The Good, the Bad, the Awesome" 11 Tomczik 2014
Bath Mt. "Hairr of the Kahndor" 11 Bissell King 2018
Blacksmith Peak "Northwest Face" 11b Tejeda-Flores Jones 1973, FFA Franousch Swanson 1992
Blacksmith Peak "The Forge" 11 Nettle Davis 1996
Bubbs Creek Wall "Unknown" 11c, ? 2016
Chamberlin "Breaking Point" 11 Fiddler Harrington 1980, FFA Nettle Zanato 1995?
Chamberlin "Where's the Boys?" 11- Pennings Haden 2010
Chamberlin "The Sword and the Stone" 11- Finkelstein Brown 2010
Chamberlin "East Pillar" 11a Brugger DeKlerk 1992
Chamberlin "Great Northern Beans" 11+ Finkelstein Brown 2011
Chamberlin "Cracked Pepper" 11 or 12 Pennings Haden 2016?
Clarence King "Direct NW Face" 11 Musiyenko 2016
Cleaver "Chronic Harmonic" 11+ Ricklin Reed 2014
Conness "Plan B" 11- Haden Teare 2002
Flatiron Butte "Triple Beam Dream" 11+ Fasoldt Schaffer 2016
Flatiron Butte "Straight Flush" 11+ Fasoldt Schaffer 2016
Flatiron Butte "Brutus of Wyde Memorial Route" 11a Bindner, FFA Musiyenko 2014
Flatiron Butte "Notorious RBG" 11+ Fasoldt Schaffer 2016
Flatiron Butte "Throat Yogurt" 11- Fasoldt Schaffer 2016
Gardiner "Vermillion pt. 1" 11- R Musiyenko 2016
Goode "North Buttress Variation" 11+ Croft Kennedy 2012 - escape left to the arete before the splitter for 11+, otherwise 12+? Chossy
Goode "Sky Pilot" 11 Croft Lella 2014
Gorge of Despair "From Afar" 11c Solem Keesee 1992
Hitchcock Mt. "Welcome to Krackizstan" 11a Musiyenko Ferro 2016
Hitchcock Mt. "Starlight Dihedral" 11 Musiyenko Ferro 2016
Incredible Hulk "Tradewinds" 11d* Nettle Davis 2006
Incredible Hulk "Astrohulk" 11b* Nettle Davis 1996
Incredible Hulk "Sunspot Dihedral" 11b* Nettle Haden 1999
Incredible Hulk "Positive Vibrations" 11a* Harrington Bartlett 1981, FFA Bard Lyde 1986
Incredible Hulk "Power Ranger" 11+* - pitch 1 variation to the start of PV
Incredulous Bulk "Causative Striations" 11- Finkelstein 2015
Juggernaut "Cittorak" 11 Potter Elliott 2018
Juggernaut "Hidden Agenda" 11- Barnes Greenberg 2013
Langley "Better Red Than Dead" 11- R Mahoney Roestel 2012
Lone Pine Peak "Windhorse" 11 Bindner Holland 1999 FFA Moser Ness 2012
Lost Pinnacle "A Fine and Pleasant Romp" 5.11+ Cavill Kalman 2015
Merriam Peak "The Flying Buttress" 11b* Croft Rands 2011
Merriam Peak "Gargoyle" 11b* Croft Rands 2011
Merriam Peak "The Last Resort" 11c R Allfrey et al. 2012
Obelisk "Far Out" 11c Wright Rivera 2002
Obelisk "Obelisk Pillar" 11cR/X Wright Rivera 2002
Peak 11,861 "The Wall above Big Five" 11 Fiddler Fiddler 1992 - 1.5 mi NE of Needham Mt.
Peak 11,357 "Boss Man" 11 Baker Bissell & Bissell 2009? - Cathedral area, Tuolumne
Pharaoh, The "Meadowblaster" 11b Swanson Franousch 1994
Red Square "Savory Chicken" 11 Fasoldt Pennings 2016 - 3 pitches
Regge Pole "East Face" 11 Bindner Brennan 1996
Ruby Wall "Chips, Fingers and a Freckled Peregrine" 11a Ardesch Bomholt 2006 - 3 pitches
Ruby Wall "Pteradon" 11a Parker Kerwin 1984, FFA Leversee 1987
Ruby Wall "Ruby Tuesday" 11 Nettle Zanato 2002
Ruby Wall "Shine on You Crazy Diamond" 11a Cornell Thomas 2016
Serpent's Tooth "Wild West Crack" 11+ Musiyenko Prince 2015
Tehipite Dome "Astro-Gil" 11 Nelson Reed Wilson 2012 - lower elevation
Tehipite Dome "Too Hip" 11 Felton Leversee 1996 - upper elevation
Tyndall "East-Facing Grave" 11bR Roed Bracy 2002
Unnamed "PDL" 5.11 Kalman (solo) 2015 - next to Mt. Lipincott
Whitney "Left Wing Extremist" 11a Rowell Wilson 1991 - choss
Whitney "Inyo Face" 11 Musiyenko Siadak 2016
Whitney "Cardiovascular Siezure" 11- Rowell Clevenger 19XX - on Iceberg Spire
Whitney "Unnamed" 11 R Musiyenko Ferro 2016
Whitney "Happy to be Here" 11- Musiyenko Prince 2016 - choss

Routes requiring a little aid (Possible to eliminate?):
Angel Wings "Killing in the Name of" 11+ A2 Musiyenko Stefurak Ferro 2015 - 30 ft of A2
Chamberlin "I Fink therefore I am" 11- A1 Davis Copp 2006
Chamberlin "Innominata" 11 A0 Nettle Shelton 2009
Chamberlin "Beanstalk" 11+ A0 Pennings Haden 2011
Crabtree Crag "Skinny Girls" 11 C1 Portzline 2014 - Chamberlin area, could be 5.12
Bear Creek Spire "Jamaica Say You Will" 10 A? (12?) Marty Dahlquist 2011
Day Needle "BCB on the Prow" 11 A1 Moser Ness 2011
Spring Lake Wall "The One That Got Away" 5.11b C1 Siadak Kalman 2015 - on the north side of Peak 11,440+, near Sawtooth Pk. in Sequoia. C1 will go at 5.10 after gardening on p2. ("Standard Deviation" 11+ C1 var. 2015 by Kalman Smith and Oakley)
Tehipite Dome "Wall of Ages" 11+ A0 Nettle Fehrman Sweeney Thau 2001
Tehipite Dome "Tehipite Sanction" 12+/13- A0? Brumbaugh Menitove Pizem 2010
Whitney "Hairline" 10d C2 Bindner Schmauss 1987

Vlad
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Jun 4, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
You forgot Asleep at the Wheel (5.12) on Chamberlin:



ps - the Pleasure Garden looks insane(amazing).
tithaf

Trad climber
Sierra Madre, CA
Jun 5, 2012 - 12:40am PT
Holy sh#t that is beautiful!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jun 5, 2012 - 12:44am PT
Holy sh#t that is beautiful!

X2
WOW!!
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Jun 5, 2012 - 01:58am PT
screensaver!!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Jun 5, 2012 - 02:57am PT
Despairadoes in Gorge of Despair. 8 pitch 5.12a that as far as I know has never had a second ascent. I'll never be able to do it, that's for sure!
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Jun 5, 2012 - 03:26am PT
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/New-Route-on-Day-Needle/t11144n.html

kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Jun 5, 2012 - 03:33am PT
Whoa! ^^Was wondering about Chamberlin ....

http://highexposures.com/blog/2011/06/17/storming-castles-part-2-the-sequel/
Bob Harrington

climber
Bishop, California
Jun 5, 2012 - 09:24am PT
Crimson Wall on Keeler is a candidate for your list.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber
Retired in Appalachia
Jun 5, 2012 - 10:54am PT
You're missing all the great traverses (Minaret traverse, Palisade traverse, Evolution traverse, Sawtooth traverse, etc.)
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jun 5, 2012 - 11:50am PT
To add to your list, not in the alpine, but it meets the requirements.

Castle Rock Spire. 11b ish....
Credit: guyman
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 5, 2012 - 11:51am PT
Great thread, great list
there may be reason to stick around in Ca, after all....
ec

climber
ca
Jun 5, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
You can't do anything that you cannot spell.

 ec
jfailing

Trad climber
Lone Pine
Jun 5, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
BCB on the Prow (Day Needle) is 5.11 A0 and 'could probably go free' at 5.12.
Impaler

Social climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
Thanks for awesome suggestions everyone! I added two routes in the Gorge of Despair and Castle Rock Spire to the list. Never heard of them, but that's exactly why I started this thread!

Chris, thanks for that AMAZING picture! I knew I could count on you for sweet images! I didn't forget "Asleep at the Wheel" - just got it out of alphabetical order!

Sierra Ledge Rat, while the traverses are awesome and I'd love to tick the ones I haven't done, they aren't technically hard enough for this list. Or are they? Definitely on my list of things to do...

EC Joe, sorry spelling isn't my specialty. I hope to learn how to spell the peak's names before getting out there. Do any of your routes (like the ones on Angel Wings) have any free climbing potential?
Impaler

Social climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
Does anyone have any info on the new routes on Merriam Peak?

They looks totally splitter!



RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 5, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
There was a topo for the new routes on merriam in the summit register when we climbed the NB last fall. I think they were 5.11 & put up by Peter Croft & Lisa Rands, can't remember the route names. The rightmost line in your topo appeared to be an endless hand crack on a beautiful golden shield. Splitter for sure. Get after it! Some amazing rock on that peak for sure. Excellent thread, thanks.

edit-oops, just read the link confirming everything i said, ha!
Impaler

Social climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
Peter Croft is a trickster like that - makes you climb the peak to get to the topo! It's good to know they are out there at all! Thanks!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 5, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
Merrimam Peak....now that lokks choice! Summer plans just made.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jun 5, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
Donini, since you like alpine climbing, if you go to do Merriam, there is Feather peak not far from it. Has a nice alpine ice couloir (Feather Couloir). I will make a trip there this summer for sure. Two little peaks that you pass as you enter Royce lakes area are cool, with good views of Royce, Merriam and Feather. Pretty fun summit blocks as well.
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