Who hammered a supposedly hardest sport climb in the world?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 20 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 14, 2019 - 05:16am PT
So I'm reading Greg Childs book, Over the Edge, and there is this...

...a climber who claimed the first ascent of what could have been the world's hardest sport climb, a steep and nearly blank stretch of cliff in California that several of the best American climbers had dismissed at the time as impossible. The climber who claimed the ascent had no history of climbing such cutting-edge routes, and when asked to produce proof that he had done the route, he could not name a witness or even the partner who had held his rope to belay him. As criticism surrounding his claim intensified, he took a hammer to the route and smashed all the holds off it, rendering any ascent impossible.

I kind of have some recollection of this incident.

 When did this occur ?
 Where did this occur ?
 Who is/was this 'climber' ?
 Does this person even climb anymore ?

Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Mar 14, 2019 - 06:35am PT
Louie Anderson on Refiner’s Fire with a Stanley claw hammer? Circa ‘94?

If I got the climber right, he’s been linked to the whole brewhaha in Tensleep recently.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 14, 2019 - 06:38am PT
Trashman for the win!
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Mar 14, 2019 - 06:55am PT
Whoa. That's a seriously insecure DB. Sad character.

BAd
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
Mar 14, 2019 - 07:22am PT
“Refiner’s Liar”... LOL!

https://www.outsideonline.com/1834626/allow-me-be-first-congratulate-you-your-stunning-achievement-damn-you

Louie Anderson

THE BOAST: I conquered one of the nation's toughest climbing routes
PROBLEM IS: Experts say it can't be climbed

In the summer of 1995, Anderson shimmied up Refiner's Fire, a 20-degree overhanging wall near Barstow, California, that at the time was one of only two 5.14b climbing routes in America. Or so he says. Unfortunately, Anderson has no video, no track record, no proof. What he has is his word, which was good enough to initially net him considerable fanfare in the sport-climbing world. In the years since, however, many elite rock-jocks have taken a hard look at the wall and a hard look at the 31-year-old Anderson, and have come to a different conclusion. Their new name for the route: Refiner's Liar. "On his best day, the guy couldn't even come close to climbing it," says Randy Leavitt, a former training partner of Anderson's. A highly regarded sport climber, Leavitt himself tried the route and failed. Then he dangled $1,000 in front of Anderson simply to repeat the feat (with cameras rolling). Anderson declined. So Leavitt asked Boone Speed, who had redpointed the nation's only other 5.14b, what he could make of Refiner's. "Randy figured if anyone could do it, I could," shrugs Speed. He couldn't: "You'd almost have to be a fly to climb that wall." Anderson dismisses the attempts to vet his story; it took a year and a half of study to manage the 19 moves on the smooth, granite face, he says. "It's not a clear-cut thing that you're going to be able to repeat it every time," Anderson insists. Thus it seems his feat will go unconfirmed. Which is fine with him. "I don't care if anyone thinks I'm kick-ass or not," Anderson says. "I'm comfortable with the truth

I remember hearing that Boone Speed couldn’t even hang on some of the holds. Good stuff!
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Mar 14, 2019 - 07:26am PT
I recall it was Randy Leavitt (?) who Child is referring to here - roped up with him in the gym and observed the man in action, then quickly, and probably quite accurately, determined there was just no way. Randy then posted a letter somewhere - the mags, maybe rec.climbing - and just a few days later the route was destroyed.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
Mar 14, 2019 - 07:36am PT
It was a letter published in Climbing Magazine. From what I understand, this would have represented a huge jump in difficulty for the FA-ist.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Sacramento, CA
Mar 14, 2019 - 07:56am PT
He’s chipping and glueing at Ten Sleep now, yes?

Who climbs with this guy?
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2019 - 08:08am PT
Thanks for the feedback and just WOW. And this guy is still out there doing his 5hit? Makes Ken Nichols look like Bambi in the Jungle. Well, maybe not.

Louie Anderson :)



WBraun

climber
Mar 14, 2019 - 08:15am PT
Bachar hammered bolt hangers flat and used a crowbar to rip crucial hold off thriller to try and make it so no one could do it anymore ...
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
Mar 14, 2019 - 08:24am PT
As long as we're besmirching the deceased, I'm pretty sure Michael Reardon did KNOTT do an onsight free solo of Romantic Warrior!
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Mar 14, 2019 - 08:31am PT
👨‍❤️‍👨💩
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Mar 14, 2019 - 09:15am PT
All from way back in the day when you could be a pro with a considerably higher mix of BS than actual achievement. Seems with the modern spread of incredibly detailed information and videos on training and the resulting sends - genetics and available time are now the most important - there's far less BS.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 14, 2019 - 09:20am PT
It's obvious why Anderson destroyed his supposed route.

Why did Bachar do the same thing on Thriller?
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Mar 14, 2019 - 09:36am PT
All from way back in the day when you could be a pro with a considerably higher mix of BS than actual achievement.

^^^^ Clearly not familiar with the “Instagram Influencers”.

Do you know what a cam is? Mildly photogenic(don’t worry, filters and golden hour light do the heavy lifting)? Then you too could be the face of an advertising campaign. *Apply at your local guide service to help cover non gear costs.

Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss On the End of a Wet Fist
Mar 14, 2019 - 09:58am PT
Bachar hammered bolt hangers flat and used a crowbar to rip crucial hold off thriller to try and make it so no one could do it anymore ..

When were there bolts on "Thriller"?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 14, 2019 - 10:12am PT
Ego, hubris, fabricated tales of ascent...all a potent mix in the climbing numbers game.

Come to think of it...similar events have happened in the alpine world.

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Mar 14, 2019 - 10:18am PT
Hammering off holds has gone on at the Traprock/choss in Connecticut as far back as the 1940s
Cragar

climber
MSLA - MT
Mar 14, 2019 - 10:21am PT
Maybe he was tweakin' when he 'did' it?
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Mar 14, 2019 - 10:34am PT
So it is possible it was never hammered.
My recollection is there were fresh scars all over the route after the hammering. Think about it - no sh!t someone would have been able to tell the difference and there'd be no controversy.

The Leavitt article was pretty funny. This is where the $1k was offered. His primary evidence was Louis' falling off an 11b warmup in the climbing gym or some such. It's a worthy article, and it was just a few days later the holds were hammered. Someone should dig it up and post it to one of these Ten Sleep threads.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta