Who hammered a supposedly hardest sport climb in the world?

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
Mar 14, 2019 - 11:02am PT
Dumbing down of climbing and manufacturing routes in an area like Ten Sleep demonstrates the ongoing cultural shift in outdoor climbing. While climbers have crossed many "lines" over the years, this activity is unjustified and unforgivable. But, I fear that it will set a new "baseline" [low] of what is considered acceptable.

On a side rant, when did we surrender so profoundly to Facebook? It seems that we can't sign on to comment on the R&I's article/website to express concerns without doing this through FB. Haven't we had enough of its crap?
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Mar 14, 2019 - 12:06pm PT
Werner - like Walleye, I don't remember bolts on Thriller. There was lots of press about JB popping off some glue-reinforced holds on The Force next door to Thriller...

EDIT: Ken (below) is right. Have to parse Werner's comment carefully

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 14, 2019 - 12:20pm PT
I heard it the way Cottonside said...l
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Mar 14, 2019 - 12:23pm PT
Tangent alert:

Totally agree, LST, I am so tired of hearing "FA" reports from areas long visited by climbers, with long "no publish" traditions....the new reports often say stuff like: "I climbed as high as I could, whacked in a pin and lowered off". sweet, I am sure that it is a bomber single pin rap anchor. 🙃 It really puts the true FA party in a pickle in that if they climb to the summit or a logical finish out of sight of the ground, they really have to publish to prevent or diminish the likelihood of such second, first ascent retro anchoring...but of course in publishing the route or area, you invite in more insta FB image lifestyle goobers/pricks. fuggin people.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Mar 14, 2019 - 01:16pm PT
Tensleep is choss go to Spearfish Canyon. Haha I may be biased. There is a lot of "cleaning" that goes into to most limestone routes.
brotherbbock

climber
So-Cal
Mar 14, 2019 - 01:20pm PT
As long as we're besmirching the deceased

He ain't dead. He posts here as Socalbolter.
Roots

Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
Mar 14, 2019 - 01:24pm PT
Yeah, he's still kicking. I've heard some other bad stories about LA when he was young. As far as I know he turned a page and is now always looking to help our community.
brotherbbock

climber
So-Cal
Mar 14, 2019 - 01:28pm PT
Louie chipped and glued lots of routes at the quarry so people could climb there. He definitely puts in time so others can enjoy some routes, albeit his methods some may consider not kosher. I used to see him at hangar 18 all the time he is a good dude. Everybody has done questionable stuff in their past so give the guy a break.
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Mar 14, 2019 - 01:35pm PT
yeah, I hear you as far as quarry-work B-bock, I know a guy.....and he is a good guy, a great climber, and I totally respect and admire him, yet I'm sure that folks would just tar and feather him, burn him under a magnifying lens, etc., for what he does in that quarry up yonder. climbers are weird.
brotherbbock

climber
So-Cal
Mar 14, 2019 - 01:40pm PT
^^^Yes they are...

I find most climbers to be totally annoying by the way...

One time a dude was telling my old man that a mountaineers coil was not a good way to coil a rope or that his figure 8 was not a good belay device. He starting talking about statistics and other sh#t why my pops and me were just trying to enjoy a little climbing break by swilling a couple beers.

I just told him no worries my pops has been doing that since the 70's when he climbed in Jtree every weekend as a kid and he's still here to talk about it. I trust my old man to belay me more than anyone and I'n not worried about the rope getting fukd up while he does it.

That dude had no clue how close he was to getting bitch slapped across the jaw from both of us.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
Mar 14, 2019 - 03:05pm PT
He ain't dead. He posts here as Socalbolter.

I was referring to Reardon, knott Anderson.
i-b-goB

Social climber
Nutty
Mar 14, 2019 - 04:05pm PT


The (Rock) Police!
There's a fossil that's trapped in a high cliff wall, that's my soul up there
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Mar 14, 2019 - 04:09pm PT
And Bachar I suppose.
And for what itís worth, Werner never said there were bolts on Thriller.
Splater

climber
Grey Matter
Mar 14, 2019 - 04:35pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=856159&tn=20
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Sacramento, CA
Mar 14, 2019 - 05:25pm PT
All this drama over an onsight grade!
Hubbard

climber
San Diego
Mar 14, 2019 - 07:16pm PT
In the spirit of things, does anybody question if Herman Buhl did in fact reach the summit of Nanga Parbit? Donini? I have an old book that shows a summit photo with an ice axe and a background that seems questionable. Later books omit this photo. Modern technology could triangulate and prove the issue if there is one.
Hubbard

climber
San Diego
Mar 14, 2019 - 07:21pm PT
Same question with Annapurna.Summit photo looks like they are on a slope. No background to verify. Did the French lie? The commonwealth made the summit of Everest for sure. Was Austian Buhl under pressure in post world war two nationalist competition for 8,000 meter summits?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 14, 2019 - 08:08pm PT
There are quite a few summits you would be a fool to tread upon the uppermost limit.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 14, 2019 - 10:06pm PT
So I'm still curious as to why Bachar supposedly used a crowbar on "Thriller". Anyone?

Also where and why was he flattening bolts?

Fake news????
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Mar 14, 2019 - 10:11pm PT
Here comes the punch line . . . "ain't no luck, I learned to duck."
Messages 21 - 40 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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