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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 14, 2019 - 12:20pm PT
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I heard it the way Cottonside said...l
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Mar 14, 2019 - 12:23pm PT
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Tangent alert:
Totally agree, LST, I am so tired of hearing "FA" reports from areas long visited by climbers, with long "no publish" traditions....the new reports often say stuff like: "I climbed as high as I could, whacked in a pin and lowered off". sweet, I am sure that it is a bomber single pin rap anchor. 🙃 It really puts the true FA party in a pickle in that if they climb to the summit or a logical finish out of sight of the ground, they really have to publish to prevent or diminish the likelihood of such second, first ascent retro anchoring...but of course in publishing the route or area, you invite in more insta FB image lifestyle goobers/pricks. fuggin people.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 14, 2019 - 01:16pm PT
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Tensleep is choss go to Spearfish Canyon. Haha I may be biased. There is a lot of "cleaning" that goes into to most limestone routes.
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brotherbbock
climber
So-Cal
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Mar 14, 2019 - 01:20pm PT
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As long as we're besmirching the deceased
He ain't dead. He posts here as Socalbolter.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Mar 14, 2019 - 01:24pm PT
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Yeah, he's still kicking. I've heard some other bad stories about LA when he was young. As far as I know he turned a page and is now always looking to help our community.
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brotherbbock
climber
So-Cal
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Mar 14, 2019 - 01:28pm PT
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Louie chipped and glued lots of routes at the quarry so people could climb there. He definitely puts in time so others can enjoy some routes, albeit his methods some may consider not kosher. I used to see him at hangar 18 all the time he is a good dude. Everybody has done questionable stuff in their past so give the guy a break.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Mar 14, 2019 - 01:35pm PT
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yeah, I hear you as far as quarry-work B-bock, I know a guy.....and he is a good guy, a great climber, and I totally respect and admire him, yet I'm sure that folks would just tar and feather him, burn him under a magnifying lens, etc., for what he does in that quarry up yonder. climbers are weird.
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brotherbbock
climber
So-Cal
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Mar 14, 2019 - 01:40pm PT
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^^^Yes they are...
I find most climbers to be totally annoying by the way...
One time a dude was telling my old man that a mountaineers coil was not a good way to coil a rope or that his figure 8 was not a good belay device. He starting talking about statistics and other sh#t why my pops and me were just trying to enjoy a little climbing break by swilling a couple beers.
I just told him no worries my pops has been doing that since the 70's when he climbed in Jtree every weekend as a kid and he's still here to talk about it. I trust my old man to belay me more than anyone and I'n not worried about the rope getting fukd up while he does it.
That dude had no clue how close he was to getting bitch slapped across the jaw from both of us.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
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Mar 14, 2019 - 03:05pm PT
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He ain't dead. He posts here as Socalbolter.
I was referring to Reardon, knott Anderson.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Nutty
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Mar 14, 2019 - 04:05pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
The (Rock) Police!
There's a fossil that's trapped in a high cliff wall, that's my soul up there
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Mar 14, 2019 - 04:09pm PT
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And Bachar I suppose.
And for what it’s worth, Werner never said there were bolts on Thriller.
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Mar 14, 2019 - 07:16pm PT
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In the spirit of things, does anybody question if Herman Buhl did in fact reach the summit of Nanga Parbit? Donini? I have an old book that shows a summit photo with an ice axe and a background that seems questionable. Later books omit this photo. Modern technology could triangulate and prove the issue if there is one.
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Mar 14, 2019 - 07:21pm PT
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Same question with Annapurna.Summit photo looks like they are on a slope. No background to verify. Did the French lie? The commonwealth made the summit of Everest for sure. Was Austian Buhl under pressure in post world war two nationalist competition for 8,000 meter summits?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 14, 2019 - 08:08pm PT
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There are quite a few summits you would be a fool to tread upon the uppermost limit.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 14, 2019 - 10:06pm PT
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So I'm still curious as to why Bachar supposedly used a crowbar on "Thriller". Anyone?
Also where and why was he flattening bolts?
Fake news????
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Mar 14, 2019 - 10:11pm PT
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Here comes the punch line . . . "ain't no luck, I learned to duck."
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Mar 14, 2019 - 10:42pm PT
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climber egos? say it ain't so.
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Mar 15, 2019 - 12:14am PT
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I grabbed a bolt hanger one time....jeez, shoot me..
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 15, 2019 - 07:31am PT
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I rapped down Refiners F to have a look, the holds were dime edges wall was STEEP. did not look passable.
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